Everything I've read so far on installing headers says the same thing: The driver's side on the V-6 is not bad, but the passenger's side is very tight. Then again, my other car is an Alfa 164. The Mustang's engine bay is practically cavernous compared to the Alfa Romeo's.
My old enemy has stopped me from installing my new headers - stuck hardware.
These nuts on the back of the manifolds are in a really awkward spot and are stuck fast. I've tried spraying Aerokroil on them to no avail. Since they are right up against the firewall I can't swing a wrench with a deep socket without hitting something. I recently purchased a pass through wrench set, so hopefully I can get a better angle for turning the wrench, especially with a cheater pipe.
And just today, I heard a very loud and unwelcome scraping noise when exiting an inclined parking lot:
Luckily the only damage was to the underside of the right plastic side skirt (seen here in this blurry cell phone picture).
I got a little bit of done on the Mustang today.
First up were Ford Racing GT500 rear jounce bumpers. They are stock on the Shelby GT500s and help soften the blow of the rear axle topping out on hard bumps. Not necessary on stock ride height cars, but a good addition to lowered cars (my Mustang sits about 1.5" lower in the rear thanks to Steeda Ultralite springs). They come in a kit with the front bump stops but I didn't install those because a) I don't think the front is that harsh, and b) it entails disassembling the front struts.
Old:
New:
The other thing I installed was a Gates Racing V-belt. I don't need it right at this moment but a little Kevlar-reinforced underhood bling never hurt anyone. I doubt this puppy will snap any time soon, nor if/when I start building this motor.
You get those headers on yet?!
Just re-read this from the beginning. Since you have changed most of the suspension. Do you regret getting the performance pack? If you were to do it again would you save the money, get the base car then add the suspension, LSD and cheaper tires?
Just for S&G I looked on e-bay and Auto Trader, I can’t see a single Manual V6 with Recaro’s anywhere! IF not unique, your car is very rare.
Nice build. Liking the numbers of the V6. Much closer to the V8 than I would have imagined.
What I find odd is the rust I'm seeing on the rear axle and some underhood components. Would have thought that Ferd would have painted the axle at least.
Adrian_Thompson wrote: Just re-read this from the beginning. Since you have changed most of the suspension. Do you regret getting the performance pack? If you were to do it again would you save the money, get the base car then add the suspension, LSD and cheaper tires? Just for S&G I looked on e-bay and Auto Trader, I can’t see a single Manual V6 with Recaro’s anywhere! IF not unique, your car is very rare.
I've thought about it at times, but I don't regret buying a Performance Pack car. I didn't change everything all at once, and when you're taking your time it makes a big, big difference over the stock V-6. They all come with LSD and you can get the 3.31 rear gears from the factory as an option on non-PP Mustangs (also a unicorn), but IMHO the base Mustang V-6 is far too soft from the factory and not all that fast without better gearing. Plus there are some goodies on the PP that I will be keeping for now like the Boss 302 strut tower bar, GT500 lower control arms, and the Sport mode traction control tuning.
I like the stock wheels too, heavy as they are. I have some wheel sets from cars I don't own anymore that I have to sell, then I will get some more suitable wheels/tires for autocross and more comfortable, bad-weather capable tires for the stock wheels once the Pirelli summers wear out.
amg_rx7 wrote: Nice build. Liking the numbers of the V6. Much closer to the V8 than I would have imagined. What I find odd is the rust I'm seeing on the rear axle and some underhood components. Would have thought that Ferd would have painted the axle at least.
The axle is supposedly made of weathering steel. The outer layer of rust is supposed to protect the rest of the axle from corrosion. It looks like ass, though. I may slap some POR15 on it. As for the rust on the pulleys, that's what happens when your winter beater is broken and you have to drive your 'Stang on salty roads. 
Sky_Render wrote: You get those headers on yet?!
Nope. I was going to put them on last Saturday- a guy on a Mustang club has access to a lift which will make life much easier with the header and diff cover install. Then his car broke that morning so he needed the lift!
I can take care of the diff cover myself but I don't want to touch the headers unless I can get access to a lift or get the Alfa Romeo back on the road. The tight/seized bolts are in a very awkward spot and there's little room under the Mustang to get enough leverage to break them free.
Wheel locks are teh suxx0rz. My Mustang has a bubble in the sidewall and I already have some Michelin Pilot Super Sports waiting for install at a shop 30 minutes from home (local shops have a reputation for jacking up rims with low-profile tires on them. Plus I wanted to check this place out).
And of course, the gottverdammt key is missing. I always keep it in the glovebox. Not there, not under the seats, not in any of the boxes in the trunk with the rest of my delayed projects, not in my toolbox, nowhere. I'll need to visit the dealership next. They were the last people to touch the Mustang for warranty work on the pinion seal. If they can't find it, then I expect them to at least give me another lug nut. I found 3 lug nuts but need a fourth to be rid of the wheel locks once and for all. I never asked for them anyway. The dealership just added them as a freebie when I bought the car.
At least the installing shop will remove the locks for free if I can't get the key.
RexSeven wrote:amg_rx7 wrote: Nice build. Liking the numbers of the V6. Much closer to the V8 than I would have imagined. What I find odd is the rust I'm seeing on the rear axle and some underhood components. Would have thought that Ferd would have painted the axle at least.The axle is supposedly made of weathering steel. The outer layer of rust is supposed to protect the rest of the axle from corrosion. It looks like ass, though. I may slap some POR15 on it. As for the rust on the pulleys, that's what happens when your winter beater is broken and you have to drive your 'Stang on salty roads.
Ford calls it weathering steel, huh? I feel your pain. I went through something similar w/ my '05 GT. 46K miles when I bought it and 9 years old. No rust whatsoberkeleyingever anywhere. Axles, drive shaft, suspension etc. looked factory brand new. The paper ID tags were intact and apparently never even saw rain as they were perfect. Took 4-5 months of DDing and driving through a couple monsoons to change all that. Nobody will ever believe me how good they were, shoulda taken pics.
I'll know better next time I bring something home in that condition. Straight to POR or paint on every exposed surface. They're only like that once.
The dealership did not have the key either but I did find the last spare lug nut, so asked the shop (Kaizen Tuning) to take the locks out and toss 'em. They were able to do it without damaging the wheels, but a wheel lock remover socket lost its life in the struggle!
Anywho, this was the stock tire with the bubble in the side. I was driving on it for a good 2 weeks.
And now, my new Michelin Pilot Super Sports!
I haven't had a good chance to hoon on 'em yet (grumble, stupid traffic, grumble) but I can already tell they are very, very grippy.
BTW, they had these SSR wheels in the shop. I think I'm in love...
Geez, what were you doing to those tires to cause that?!
I hit a nasty bump, like a pothole or raised manhole cover. There's a lot of road construction going on in my area and unfortunately not all of the manholes or divots are marked. Eh, the stock Pirellis would have needed to be changed in a few months anyways.
Still got it? Any progress?
I'm pretty sure he sold it and bought a mitsubishi Evo.
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