NMNA
https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/382369022680629/
It's in North Carolina and needs a bit of work, but these are extremely easy to work on.
Mod class autocross on a challenge budget, well tire purchase aside... But those are only $800 per set and last more than a year.
Very cool. And comes with trailer. Looks a bit rough, but the rear suspension looks cool.
Robbie (Forum Supporter) said:..... the rear suspension looks cool.
I'm trying to wrap my head around how the rear suspension works. Would you be willing to educate me?
Ziptie a couple of production frame rails to it (shorten to match wheelbase of course) and Bob's your uncle.
That car may be of the era that the back half of the chassis was hinged. (Motor moves with rear suspension, makes belt stuff alot easier) Hard to tell from the pics.
Depending on wheelbase and which engine, that thing will run at 700-800lbs with driver in the car. It's still easily an ftd candidate at most autocrosses.
You would need to check the main rollbar diameter, but it's likely too small for roadrace at this point (regs changed), so autocross only.
It looks like they modified the original Red Devil rear end. The one I had, basically the chassis was hinged in the middle and the bearings you see next to the brake were the only rear wheel bearings (allowing you to slide the hubs in/out like a kart). Class rules require a solid axle, and rather than shock/springs, it uses rubber pucks inside of cannisters.
This one was converted to a 3 link maybe, and someone built the truss to give more support to the rear axle.
MrJoshua said:Robbie (Forum Supporter) said:..... the rear suspension looks cool.
I'm trying to wrap my head around how the rear suspension works. Would you be willing to educate me?
F500/F-Mod cars typically have what is essentially a solid rear axle. The upper push-rod actuates a rubber puck that is the entirety of the spring and damper - simplicity to the extreme. Total wheel travel is only a few inches. That said, so many of these have been modified and futzed with over the past 30+ years that it can be hard to find one that is still completely original. This one looks well futzed with.
Also looking at it, it might still be in roadrace trim, for autocrossing you would have same size tires front and rear.
Hmm, would be interesting to know the rollbar diameter.
Back half of car still hinged, but it's a single spherical bearing, so it can hinge and also twist.
Trailing arms keep the axle square to the front wheels (prevent yaw of the rear axle).
Engine is mounted to a cradle with the solid rear axle, everything in that cradle is fixed together and moves together, mounted at the heim joint and controlled by the trailing arms. Suspension is controlled by the pushrods through bell cranks and the the rubber puck canisters that are almost hidden under the exhaust. Some damping adjustment available by tightening or loosening the bell cranks to their mounts (friction in the movement of the bell cranks is damping the suspension action).
The entire thing won't move much.
Stampie (FS) said:Ziptie a couple of production frame rails to it (shorten to match wheelbase of course) and Bob's your uncle.
I might have a very cheap datsun roadster body available for this purpose...
In reply to Robbie (Forum Supporter) :
That is what I see as well. The swing arm on this car is T shaped and the trailing arms handle the lateral location. interesting setup and would be fairly simple to implement on your chassis.
Total wheel travel is likely 1" max.
You might be surprised Gumby. Depends on what the bellcrank ratio is set at. At least on my car (which is, admittedly several design generations later).
They really don't ride too horribly for a racecar. It's much better than a kart. Keep in mind also that the tires are at 10-13 psi and there is good sidewall.
Apexcarver said:Depends on what the bellcrank ratio is set at. At least on my car (which is, admittedly several design generations later).
You'll get no argument from me there. The '92 Red Devil chassis I rebuilt the back half of had more travel that I anticipated going into the project, and way more than the '84 chassis I sold to Robbie. The newer the chassis, the more development goes in the rocker/puck setups, and many are quite sophisticated at this point; pretty remarkable relative to the restrictive rule set they operate under. The national level Solo cars I am familiar with are setting front chassis heights at 1-1.25" and .5-.75" of rake with rub strip material on the belly pans. Less than an inch of bump travel before they drag, and only really enough droop to relax the pucks. As you stated, the tire does a lot of work on these cars!
What's the wheelbase of those things?
SVreX (Forum Supporter) said:What's the wheelbase of those things?
1/2 a day round trip....
In reply to Hasbro (Forum Supporter) :
Yes, I know!
I'd like to know the wheelbase and the width...
Sold.
SVreX (Forum Supporter) said:I'd like to know the wheelbase and the width...
80 and 55, though earlier cars could be 73 and down to 50 on the width.
Woohoo, that's gonna be a really fun project, Paul!
Hasbro (Forum Supporter) said:Woohoo, that's gonna be a really fun project, Paul!
Did Paul get it? Or is he reporting it was sold when he called?
Nope. It was sold by the time I called.
SVreX (Forum Supporter) said:Nope. It was sold by the time I called.
Boooo
MrJoshua said:SVreX (Forum Supporter) said:Nope. It was sold by the time I called.
Boooo
Rats
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