I have decided to put my super reliable, neutral to drive, E36 track car up for sale. I’ve owned it / developed it for a few years. It’s only been a track day car under my ownership, mostly with NASA and THSCC with a few BMWCCA and TNAI events mixed in. Only DNF was earlier this year at CMP after the engine swap. Clutch pressure plate was bent, causing it to slip. All clutch components are now new. It’s been to Daytona, VIR, CMP, RRR, etc.
Reason for sale, going to buy a vintage race car, and not enough room in the shop for two track cars.
Could this be street legal? That depends upon your state (or county in NC) and the requirements for inspection. Much of the emissions equipment has been removed such as SAP, rear O2 sensors etc. With the tune, all readiness sensors are permanently set to ready so that part isn’t an issue. Let your conscious be your guide, it’s being sold as a track only car. All lights still functional.
Car is not registered and insured, so test drives are not really an option, but I have a lift for easy inspection. Have video from last TNIA at VIR that I can share with serious buyers. Warning that driver is slow and conservative, and can’t come close to maxing out cars potential.
Car is located in the Raleigh NC area. Cash only sale, happy to correspond prior to the sale so you can buy with confidence. Very safe neighborhood, so no need to worry about bringing cash situation. Titles have to be notarized in NC, so happy to meet and do the cash part of the transaction at my bank (Wells Fargo) so it can be notarized.
Pricing can be very hard to gauge on a track car that is not a logged book race car. Let’s call it $10,000 but will have intelligent conversations about price with serious buyers.
Body / Chassis:
- E36 328 body with clean NC title in my name
- Body is extremely clean and rust free
- Only damage is two small dents that occurred on last outing when tire came off the rack in trailer. Two small dents at far rear edge of trunk. Thats why I put on the LTW replica wing. Not really noticeable if you wish to remove the wing, as some may want to
- Paint not as good as in photos. Clear coat starting to show signs of age. Still presents very well for a track car, far better than most E36 track cars out there
- Clearcoat on roof was peeling hence the wrap
- Carbon fiber sunroof delete panel
- Ben Sipson Roll Bar with the X Brace
- Door windows / regulators removed. Lexan rear door windows installed. Front rear windshields still glass
- Interior is stripped of all sound deadening
- Expired belts on both sides
- Expired Cobra Imola Pro on passenger side
- Expired Cobra Suzaka Pro on Drivers Side
- If you are bigger than a 34-35” waste you’ll want to swap the seats side to side. The Suzaka is narrower than the Imola. I’ve had some fairly portly instructors who fit. That seat is set low and back for maximum room
- Aluminum door skins in the front
- Aluminum tread floors in the front
- Oil pressure, temp, and water temp gauges
- Lightweight smaller battery
- Subframe reinforcement kit installed
Weight / Balance
- I have not cornered balanced the car in a couple of years, but put it on a set of scales today.
- 2713 lbs empty with a little less than 1/2 tank on gauge
- With 175 driver in the seat that yields a 50.9/49.1% cross weight at 2887 lbs
Engine:
- S52 from M3 Auto
- New gaskets, rear main seal
- New connecting rod bearings
- VANOS rebuild and new solenoid
- When I pulled the engine (it’s only had one TNIA since) compression was 168, 170, 180, 170, 175 ,170
- Kassel Tune (SAP delete, rear O2 delete, Evaps all set to ready, etc)
- M50 Manifold, rebuilt injectors
- Power steering hoses all replaced. Currently running a nonM pump, so the pump is shimmed to fit the S52
- No AC, retained the heat / defrost
- Electric fan with bypass switch
- Dual fuel pumps
- Majority of emissions stuff has been removed
- Long tube SS headers to 3” custom SS exhaust. Exhaust is very nicely done. high flow cat, resonator and muffler and tai-clamps for easy assembly. Nice tone but not open exhaust loud
- CAI with K&N filter
Drivetrain:
- ZF Tranny
- New detent kit over the winter
- UUC short shifter / UUC / weighted knob
- Replaced all the mounts
- Replaced Gumbo
- ALL New clutch, master, slave, SS flex hose, TOB, fork, metal pivot pin, etc all from BW
- New JBR flywheel and BMW clutch kit
- 3.64 LSD Installed
- M3 Rear Subframe / M3 Axles
Brakes:
- M3 Brakes / PFC08 pads. Pads & rotors plenty of life left. Front rotors have one TNIA on them. SS flex hoses
- Front brakes are fully ducted to the fog light holes
- Calipers were rebuilt
Suspension:
- Ground Control Race Suspension, Single Adjustable
- GC Camber plates
- Hotchkiss front sway bar
- Stock rear sway
- Front subframe, convertible cross member reinforcement
- Front and rear tower bars (cheap)
- Bearings were all replaced during M3 conversion
- All the suspension parts were swapped with their M3 counterparts
- Poly bushings where applicable
- All non-poly bushings / joints have been replaced
- Adjustable rear camber arms
Tires:
- 1 Set Kosei’s with fresh Toyo RR with tons of life left. Date codes in the 20s. Full disclosure last time at VIR I picked up a slight vibration in one of the fronts above 110 mph or so. Haven’t swapped them to the rear yet or had them balanced
- 1 set Kosei’s with older RS4s. I keep them for rains
Spares:
- A couple of totes of stuff I take to the take for E36 stuff, which is all the engine sensors, spare MAF, hoses, etc.
- A set of twisty side skirts if you want to complete the M3 look. Need to be painted to match
- A spare 3.15 or 3.3 LSD. Its whatever came in a S52 M3 Auto (that was the donor car for the M3 parts)
- A tote of spare engine parts from when I did the swap. I kept the starter, alternator, etc. from the old M52 as spares
- I’ve got an NRG quick release thats new in the box as well
