Is this as much of a deal as I think it is? It's local to me: linky.
Is this as much of a deal as I think it is? It's local to me: linky.
Really good deal. Obviously there a roll hoop or something at one point. You'll want to ditch the smooth case trans and since the rocker and floor are suspect, the jack point will need doing too. Unless you want to hunt down some of the missing pieces (authentic to a road car), I'd go with it as is.
In reply to markwemple:
I've run into the smooth case-ribbed case thing before. Are there differences other than the implication that a ribbed case is stronger than a smooth one? What is the availability and cost of ribbed case transmissions? Just curious.
Everything is better in a ribbed case. Easier for parts, stiffer case (really is), more reliable (although they still aren't that great) and more gears. Trans should be in the low hundreds. I had one rebuilt for $350, with me supplying the parts. Plus, you can keep the smooth case for authenticity, knowing it will work down the road. All spridgets (I believe) after a bugeye were ribbed case so the numbers help.
That is a good deal.
You also might go ahead and put the 948cc motor in storage with the smoothcase and drop in a 1275cc to make it keep up a bit better while you are in there. It all depends on what you want to do with it. Remember, top speed stock on one of these was 81mph-ish and something like 4k rpm cruising at 60mph. You could go all the way and build a 1275 and get the datsun 5-speed swap and drop that in to pick up some major drivability improvements, but that costs a few grand (although I think it would be worth it)
Most groups racing these now allow the 1275 swap without a big class hit.
I would do it. (but I already have one, no place to put another car, no money to buy another one, etc)
Would love those wheels though.
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