Mostly mine since I haven't xferred the title yet.
2003 Jaguar X-Type 2.5 V6 5-speed, AWD
Needs:
-problem with rear speed sensors, results also in inop speedo, though odo still works
-may have prop shaft noise
-headlight went out right as replaced it
-on the drive home the alt said 12v but not before or since (??)
Wants:
- pass fender has crinkles, comes with white one but local black source for $100
- crack along top of windshield. Comes with spare windshield
- interior is 7/10, unless you count off for missing headliner. Ha
- I think I hear an exhaust leak under the hood
-KC or Indianapolis level of rust; surprisingly decent
178k miles, black on black, bought it for a car to beat the winter depression but it's not really ringing my bell so passing it along at cost, all the way up to when it's all fixed and ready to go to market like a little piggie.
So far I'm in $1,200 purchase, ~$100 title xfer and plates, Monday the first shop fees are coming
I got the title in the mail. So now it's mine. So now it's posted for sale to the general public.
ANNNNND -- selling on Facebook is PAINFUL! C'mon, someone please buy this from me!
It's only $650 of parts to do the whole suspension up nice and shiny. And then whatever with the other parts... but man, the people out there who respond to an ad for a $1,600 Jag... (wife asked me to ask for a couple hundred more, just to give it a shot) SMH, this one's gonna be painful
In reply to P3PPY :
Ugh. I feel you. Fb marketplace is such a cesspool. I never thought I’d pine for the days of buying and selling on Craigslist, but here we are.
I think I'm going to start posting the horror show of questions I get. Maybe I can laugh at my misery? The $1k-ish market is a circus
In reply to P3PPY :
Every town has a part of town where the Buy-Here-Pay-Here dealers all seem to be in a strip. Next Sat morning, take the car down there and offer it to the dealers for whatever your bottom price is. Sure, the manual trans makes it a hard sale to the car buying masses but I promise you, they can not buy the same quality car at auction for less than what your asking. And, at the auction, they don't get to drive the cars. Let them drive yours.
If they buy yours for $1000 they will then sell it for $1,999 down and just $99 per month (for 2 years) for this fine luxury automobile.
My FB marketplace experience has generally been ok, but I'm usually selling specific items in closed groups, which I suppose keeps most of the riff-raff away.
'Tis the season. Do your FB pictures have the requisite big red bow?
The somehow drunker, trailer park version of a December to Remember.
That seems insanely cheap in the current market. GLWS. The more my s-type sits, the more I think I should just sell it.
At least you are not as delusional as this similar, non-running X-Type
P3PPY said:
I think I'm going to start posting the horror show of questions I get. Maybe I can laugh at my misery? The $1k-ish market is a circus
Go out to CL with pictures taken in a different place and enough to make it somewhat seem like a different car. Then price the car at $2,900 but be very clear that you are open to offers. Accentuate the positives and be less proactive with giving the negatives. Given the perceived value of $3000 someone might try to hit you up with a 50% offer of $1,400. The buyer will feel like they got a big win.
Or, if the buyer doesn't realize the cars are the same, the $2,900 ad makes your $1,000 ad look like a great deal.
I basically tried to give away an 02 explorer. It ran, had good studs and a decent sound system. The tranny was losing overdrive and the whole car is the worst thing ever to be made by a car maker but.....$400 obo for something that runs and is 4wd would be great for someone, right?
berkeley no, so much misery there. I even attempted to trade it for an old Accord that needed work but couldn't make that happen because of the according owner.
I ended up donating it, I don't regret it.
The Jag is cool, if you were closer or it was a different time of year I might be interested but I don't think you'll have much problems selling it
Yeah I think I'm going to go the $3k route. I had a friend who did wedding photography and at first he had a low price to build a reputation but quickly realized he was only attracting a different demographic who was only going to waste his time.
So yeah, Im thinking $3k. Except I'll probably need to at least get the speedo working :P
Ball joint is RRRREEEAALLY bad. I don't trust it for a test drive. I ordered the parts for that and the speed sensors. Then I posted that sucker up for $3,200 and said if anyone buys it before I fix it they could knock off a grand, no questions asked.
Hopefully that helps with the kind of buyer I'm attracting.
Type Q
SuperDork
12/13/21 6:40 p.m.
Where are you and the car located?
Sadly, halfway across the world from you, brother. Lansing, Michigan.
Type Q
SuperDork
12/15/21 1:37 p.m.
Lansing!?!
Actually, I think we had this conversation before. I grew up on the west side of Lansing about block away from Sexton High School.
After living CA and working on dry climate - no road salt - rust free cars a few years, I vowed I would never buy anything from MI again that had ever been used in winter.
Good luck with the sale.
In reply to Type Q :
I grew up in the KC area and they salt there too, so before I moved here I thought I knew what rust was. I'm totally on board with your sentiment. Michigan cars are only for desperate Michigan buyers. There should be a notice on any ad: "UNCLEAN! UNCLEAN!"
Well, I cracked into it last night. I gotta admit, it's surprisingly easy to work on and not too rusted on the components themselves. The undercarriage has more rust than I'd noticed at firdt, but all-in-all this has given a little glimmer of hope that I might one day again enjoy working on cars.
I started with trying to just replace the ball joint end, used a sawzall to cut off the rivets. 
-- see those three rivets there? I tried to cut off the bottom side and hoped to hammer the rest through like a pin. Funny thing is that the "The Torch - thick metal" Milwaukee blade is up to the task but a sawzall isn't exactly a precise instrument. Between leaving a lot of the head on and cutting into the sleeve, I decided to give up and go for the control arm itself. The bolt goes up where there's not room without dropping the subframe so I cut it off and knocked it out. Then i just went crazy from there and I'm going to do the whole list of repairs.
So THIS is the Jag you're looking for shop space for. I'm a grad student at MSU a stone's throw over. Wish I had the means to work on this as I also want a winter beater!
In reply to MINIzguy :
You two might be a great match. Put on your Carharts and two hoodies, like Michigan requires, and work on this Jag together. When done, take the Jag for a romp and maybe buy it. You might find that you're helping Peppy with his car or that Peppy is helping you with your car. Win-win!
In reply to P3PPY :
Get some $12 Harbor Freight grinders and equip them with grinding and cutting discs and a flap wheel. You'll be able to dismantle anything.
John Welsh said:
In reply to MINIzguy :
You two might be a great match. Put on your Carharts and two hoodies, like Michigan requires, and work on this Jag together. When done, take the Jag for a romp and maybe buy it. You might find that you're helping Peppy with his car or that Peppy is helping you with your car. Win-win!
That's right, brother! Plus, if I have it driving and not sold by Jan then it's going to the Son of Sno Drift rally-- you game??
P3PPY said:
John Welsh said:
In reply to MINIzguy :
You two might be a great match. Put on your Carharts and two hoodies, like Michigan requires, and work on this Jag together. When done, take the Jag for a romp and maybe buy it. You might find that you're helping Peppy with his car or that Peppy is helping you with your car. Win-win!
That's right, brother! Plus, if I have it driving and not sold by Jan then it's going to the Son of Sno Drift rally-- you game??
Yea if my school schedule works, then I'd be interested! I may be back in EL next week to help work on this if needed too.
Also, a thought on getting those rivets out after reading this thread - take a center punch and hit the dome portion of the rivet pictured. Then drill it out. I got that idea from my Cobalt days. Safer, even though it takes longer, than the grinder method.
In reply to MINIzguy :
Sounds good, and I'll shoot you a PM with my contact info. I ended up deciding on the whole control arm because the bushing was so bad and made the decision to do all of what it needed anyway.
In other news, the cat has a jagket now, courtesy of my sister-in-law =)
