Recently I've had several discussions with friends on which course to take.
Typically the conversation goes something like," I like the cars styling but all the work and cost keeping it running turns me off. Plus I want it faster".
The argument about only doing what can be unbolted etc. is usually put forward but may not solve all the issues.
How do you deal with those issues. Restoration or restomod ?
When I restored or refurbished cars I tended to add improvements to performance by upgrading or simply optimizing things like engine power, brakes and handling, while leaving the appearance of the cars pretty left pretty much stock with the exception of colour - I own one 58 MG that was originally painted in a horrid turquoisey green/blue that always reminded me of a Nash Metropolitan. A close friend owned an MGA painted Alamo Beige and insisted on keeping the colour - and always winced whenever someone called out to their friends at a show to "come look at the pink MG..."
When I did my Mk 9 Jag (which I loved and miss way more than I do my Mk 2 Jag) I went with non stock colours but in a two tone pattern as used by the factory - that sort of deviation from original never bothered me. Drivelines remained stock.
MGAs often got MGB power, and front disc brakes if they didn't have them already, TRs received slightly enlarged TR4 engines and occasionally all synchro trans, although my RHD TR2 remained completely stock mechanically.
My Jensens usually got an added 70-200 bhp in a rebuild while retaining original displacement - they really didn't need much help from that point of view.
I realize that everyone is entitled to restore in their own way, but whenever I come across a nice vintage car that looks like it was in a collision with a mad louvering machine, or that has sprouted a large and pointless hood scoop, I shudder in sympathy for the car.
At a show once, I came across an otherwise very tidy XKE convertible that some git has shoved a small block Chev into. I offered no comment until he asked me what I though, at which point I asked him if he was the Fxxxxg idiot that created that abomination of just the one that was dumb enough to buy it. Some questions shouldn't be asked.
I reciently purchased a 1970 Datsun Roadster equipped with the 1600 motor. The prevouis owner had purchased the car in 1976 and it had lived inside a garage during her ownership. I took on the project understanding I would not restore the car, but refresh the mechanicals as required. But the parts that are being replaced are not being strictly limited to a stock configuration.
One example is the ignition system. The car is now running the pre-'68 settings and the triggering system from a '82 eletronic donar. The Datsun distributor is a two part system, it lends it self to the something old and something new solution. All of the smog injection parts were on the motor but the pump had frozen. As I was back dating to the earlier configuration, I gave it not a second thought and removed it all.
I have included some additional changes, the Bilstein front shocks requires a change to allow installing them in the car. Then there are the seats...
Putting a small block in this car will not happen. But there are other options.
wspohn said:When I restored or refurbished cars I tended to add improvements to performance by upgrading or simply optimizing things like engine power, brakes and handling, while leaving the appearance of the cars pretty left pretty much stock with the exception of colour - I own one 58 MG that was originally painted in a horrid turquoisey green/blue that always reminded me of a Nash Metropolitan. A close friend owned an MGA painted Alamo Beige and insisted on keeping the colour - and always winced whenever someone called out to their friends at a show to "come look at the pink MG..."
When I did my Mk 9 Jag (which I loved and miss way more than I do my Mk 2 Jag) I went with non stock colours but in a two tone pattern as used by the factory - that sort of deviation from original never bothered me. Drivelines remained stock.
MGAs often got MGB power, and front disc brakes if they didn't have them already, TRs received slightly enlarged TR4 engines and occasionally all synchro trans, although my RHD TR2 remained completely stock mechanically.
My Jensens usually got an added 70-200 bhp in a rebuild while retaining original displacement - they really didn't need much help from that point of view.
I realize that everyone is entitled to restore in their own way, but whenever I come across a nice vintage car that looks like it was in a collision with a mad louvering machine, or that has sprouted a large and pointless hood scoop, I shudder in sympathy for the car.
At a show once, I came across an otherwise very tidy XKE convertible that some git has shoved a small block Chev into. I offered no comment until he asked me what I though, at which point I asked him if he was the Fxxxxg idiot that created that abomination of just the one that was dumb enough to buy it. Some questions shouldn't be asked.
I'll bet he's kicking himself now. Standard spec Jaguar XKE's are commanding $150,000-175,000 while the sky is the limit for the factory liteweights.
Stuffed with a small block Chevy even in pristine running condition it won't sell within $100,000 of that price.
As for "power". Watch the well prepared Jaguar race and beat the well prepared small block Corvette. In Vintage racing.
Only professionally built 454 Corvettes well driven, can beat that little 238 cu inch Jaguar six.
I've owned my TR for well over 30 years, and my father had one for about 6 years before that. My grandfather ran a Triumph dealership. So we come from a time when they were new. However, my grandfather also ran a race team out of that dealership, and so those cars got modified.
When I first built mine, I stayed pretty doggone stock. It was not long however before I started modifying it. My modifications were pretty particular - I wanted modifcations that looked like they belonged on the car from when it was relatively new but added something to the car. I've stayed true to that over time.
I built a new engine for it 2 summers ago. While I built the engine up significantly HP wise, it really looks pretty stock from the outside. Only the triple sidedrafts hanging off the side are the real hints that more is going on inside. But even there, I went with original DCOE 40-18's, the orignal Italian made DCOE's that were spec'ed for the car back in the '70's, and I put them on a Cannon manifold as well that matched the carbs.
If you look hard under the hood, you'll see the harness for the wide-band O2 that is in the header, but the gauge on top of the dash is color matched to the old Smiths gauges, so it is not too terribly out of place though the reading is digital.
Recently, I added a limited slip differential from an Infiniti under the car along with CV joint axles and hubs. The performance upgrade from the diff, plus the fact that it does not leak, along with the fact that I've finally addressed the glaring weak point of the fragile rear hubs is a good thing. I'd dare anyone but another Triumph owner to pick out the difference. You definitely cannot tell without crawling under the car with a flashlight.
A non-stock electric fuel pump under the gas tank feeds the Webers, but is concealed under the rear fender. An impact switch from a late model Ford is up under the driver's side interior paneling where I can reach it but cannot be seen. Safety. Only visual giveaway is the blanking plate on the motor and slightly odd fuel line routing under the hood.
Nothing I've done to the car is pointless - it all adds to the comfort, safety and performance of the car. Everything I've done is as clean as possible and concealed. All of it is reversible, though I have no intention of doing so.
The way I'm going with my '57 MGA is a period sportsman racer/weekend warrior. Think late 50's, early 60's guy that drove his car to and from the track to race.
Going with period bolt on mods for suspension (anti sway bar, springs, and bushings) and engine (lots - pretty much everything but staying with stock displacement, crank and rods) and updating the seals to modern (ish) MGB where I can.
Everything mechanical has been given a nut and bolt evaluation and restore where needed. Tried to keep as many original parts in it as possible. Still have 4 drums, but went with modern, wider alloy wheels for 200tw autocross rubber. It is an interesting combo of patina, resto, and new.
It does get occasional hard use at local autocrosses - at least every other month. Doesn't get babied :) Pulls a solid 1.17g in the corners, better if I switched the RS4's for 660's.
Anything I do can be easily put back to stock, or left (flat top pistons) if it ever gets sold. Keeping and storing the stock wheels and stock rebuilt head.
Rob
Ive been really impressed by the work Retropower UK does. It's full Re-engineering of classic cars. It's the kind of work I think I'd do if I wasn't always trying to be cheap and fast.
To me unless a vehicle has an immense value to other people in it's stock configuration I'm modifying it to suit my needs because I own / build cars for my enjoyment. Generally the stuff I own is of low value so I'm not "destroying" classics (<$10k). I think if I had something that was more intrinsically valuable like $30k+ I would reconsider.
Last night I had a few minutes with my Datsun project and I was reminded of a few things about cars of this "vintage". Even at idle, they are making some noises that we no longer get to hear. The amount of mechanical sounds that come from an engine that was designed to use fuel that had a lead content, that was a combustion lubricant, makes the car that much noisier with out it.
Now that my car is coming together with an ignition system that I will not have to think about and the back dated pre-smog compromises I am looking forward to just driving the car. The fact that it has a 4 speed and 3.9 rear end will keep me off the highway, thank god. But you can get you old radio rebuilt to include a blue tooth adapter, may be...
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