Volkswagen Camper/Van

In reply to SVreX:

I agree. DIY bio-diesel/greasecars were a cheap way to fuel your diesel say 5-10 years ago when a lot of restaurants would give away the old oil for free. Now they are hip to it and many charge.

Do a search for posts here by (IIRC) DrBoost. He did the grease-car thing a few years ago and had an extensive thread about the experience.

Adrian_Thompson wrote: Also why a VW camper? Is it some romantic hippie ideal? If so that's fine and I'm on 100% board with you. But understand that the Engineers were stunningly creative in their design of the front crush structure. They ingeniously used the actual occupants as part of the crush structure to save damage from the front wheels back in a front end collision. They knew that there would come a time when no more T1 or T2's were being built, but we keep on popping out disposable humans.

They got away from this interesting design choice with the T3 revision, which I'd strongly recommend over a T2 for routine use.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qO_AfCFQR2M

In reply to Kenny_McCormic: Ya I realize that the T3 will be a hell of a lot safer than the T2 but, I'm the kind of guy that requires good looks from a car as well as functionality (I wouldn't get the functionality part unless I upgrade the engine).

Personally I think the T2 just looks goofy, the 3 also comes set up for a liquid cooled engine if you get a 83 on up model (or any diesel).

In reply to SVreX: Ok, I see what you're saying. And I will tryout biodiesel before I make it my main fuel source, but I do want to keep the engine diesel just for the fact that if I do end up liking biodiesel i can switch it over. I also want a diesel engine cuz it should save me a bit of money compared to a regular gas engine.

In reply to ToxicTurtl3:

I'm not trying to be argumentative, but there is no way it will save you money.

You are going to spend $8-10,000 extra to build it.

Then you are going to spend 30% more per gallon for diesel than you would for gasoline.

If you make your own biodiesel, you MIGHT save money on fuel (assuming no major manufacturing errors or maintenance for the engine). But that assumes you drive quite a bit, because you will have to recoup the cost of getting the equipment to make the biodiesel.

Then, when you go to sell it, you will be selling a vehicle that might have cost you $15,000 or more to build, but it will be an oddball which will not have any value to a future buyer. Your future buyer will consider it a rolling shell T2 that they have to pull the engine out of and swap in something better. So, you will loose a lot of money on the final resale.

It's not a money maker.

I drive a diesel because I drive 60,000- 80,0000 miles per year, and tow a LOT. Those are the circumstances in which a diesel makes sense.

Diesel does not make sense in an occassional camper/ fun vehicle.

In reply to SVreX:

+1. I also own a diesel ('03 VW TDI) and even with the 30K+ miles per-year I drive, the only time I really came out ahead was right after Hurricane Katrina when gas was 2x the price of diesel for a couple of months. A decade later I'm essentially still riding on that disparity from a cost/mile point of view.

My cost figures are also helped some by the fact I do ALL of the maintenance and repair work on the car, bearing in mind I have spent no small amount of money on specialized tools and equipment to do so.

SVreX wrote: Diesel does not make sense in an occassional camper/ fun vehicle.

Okay, I'm gunna take your word for it cuz you have given so much info and NOT do a diesel conversion. Since I have no experience what kind of car would you recommend me starting with, and how much does a set of tools and that engine lifter crane thing generally cost?

You don't need an engine hoist for a T2. The engine doesn't drop in from above, it lifts in from underneath.

You put the engine on the ground, roll the car over it, and lift it into place with a jack.

Since you are dead-set on an old VW, perhaps you should pick up a copy of this to give yourself an idea of what you'll be starting with:

http://www.amazon.com/How-Keep-Your-Volkswagen-Alive/dp/156261343X/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1428371725&sr=8-3&keywords=keeping+your+VW+alive

Has anyone here mentioned doing the Subie motor swap? That looks like a cheap idea..

Ian F wrote: Since you are dead-set on an old VW, perhaps you should pick up a copy of this to give yourself an idea of what you'll be starting with: http://www.amazon.com/How-Keep-Your-Volkswagen-Alive/dp/156261343X/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1428371725&sr=8-3&keywords=keeping+your+VW+alive

+10 on that book.

My first car was a VW Bus (when I was 15). That's the book that taught me how to work on cars.

In reply to SVreX: In reply to Ian F:

Thanks for all your guy's help!!! I will check out the book and I think I have found myself an old 1973 Beetle that looks to have a pretty nice body and wheels for $500 (IDK if it is drivable, or even runs for that matter) but thank you guys so much for all your help :)

Inspect the bug carefully for rust, plenty of youtube videos showing where the trouble spots are. That's another thing about old VWs, they all like to rust, they're relatively easy to repair, but it is a problem.

I hear a type 4 will fit in a old bug and love turbochargers.