So:
Visiting Mom on the way home from picking up my wife's new DD, and occasional tow pig.
Mom is going to buy us tires, so that's cool. Trans. fluid and minor maint. when I get back to AL
Have read the brakes are ... marginal ... and I'd have to agree!
Not worried towing, with e-brakes, but running around town, it's heavy, and needs better.
Average DD quaility pads can be had for $20/wheel
Power Stop E36 (towing/hd) is between 2-3 times that. For just pads. I've never felt the need to spend that much more... on stock rotors, will they really be that much better!
Can't afford any "big brake" kits, but don't mind spending for better safety!
Thanks
My 08 had oem Ford parts on it, with fresh fluid, they didn't seem unsafe. Worked fine, but now that you mention it not real powerful.
The brakes were done not all that long ago. Might try bleeding them again, I didn't feel like I quite got it all when I did the lines.
Checking rockauto email, I did power stop pads and rotors in August 2018, probably 20k ago along with front soft lines and a front caliper.
In reply to akylekoz :
Definitely not at an unsafe level. Just could be better!
Apex had mentioned newish hardware; he just texted me part numbers (SO glad to buy this from him!)
I'll try bleeding them again, as he suggested, see where that goes.
In reply to Apexcarver :
Just checked, cause curiosity - that front kit has gone up $50 since then!
I may try the power stop E36 pads, see if they really are "better" than the z17 pads! I do like the thought of the clean ceramic z17, so they may end up back on!!!
That's the same basic chassis as my 2015, and I've never had any issue with the brakes, including many hours of heavy towing. I wonder if they upgraded them at some point, maybe when they went to the Ecoboost? Might be worth looking into, it could be a bolt-on. Or you may be able to use F-150 parts, as well.
For pads, I put Powerstop Extremes on about 15k miles ago, and they've been great.
In reply to Tom_Spangler (Forum Supporter) :
The 2011 F150 we had for a bit felt better than this; I'll have to look into some part numbers. I suspect they are the same.
These are really not bad at all. Definitely not unsafe. Might just need an adjustment of the nut holding the steering wheel!
I've driven a bunch of those and I never noticed that they stop any worse than any other 5,600 lb vehicle.
APEowner said:
I've driven a bunch of those and I never noticed that they stop any worse than any other 5,600 lb vehicle.
Thanks. Let me know when your out this way, so you can compare this one.
I have read that these are a bit under braked.
I played a lot with the numb brakes on my 2008 expedition (RIP) - Tried OEM, "police grade",etc. Found that HAWK pads from tire rack had the best "bite" / modulation. At the time I was living outside Seattle area which was super hilly so constant light braking needed. They were dusty but I didnt care, I had great brakes.
In reply to Kendall_Jones :
I've seen Hawk recommended, do you know what compound?
Dont mind dusty, if they work good.
EBC Yellow has been bragged about, but expensive
And since I've always bought in the mid grade , don't know about the "bang for the buck"
I did find a good deal on some Goodyear Assurance tires... being mounted now.
Back pads look great, rotors look stock, and fairly good.
Front discs look fantastic, and pads maybe half way.
Everything ya can see behind the wheels looks fantastic!
Plan to have this, a long time!
Looks like the hawk pads are LTS, and $61 front (maybe scam ad) to $135 from hawk.
Didn't see rear. Although thet have high dollar rotors!
In reply to 03Panther :
in defense of the expense of rotors, THOSE SUCKERS ARE HUGE! (I have the old fronts on the scrap metal pile behind my shop, planning to possibly use in making a forge)
Hawk SuperDuty pads and whatever flavor of high carbon/slotted rotor you can find. If they can make GMT800 brakes acceptable if not good they can do anything.
In reply to Apexcarver :
Yea, I got to look at brakes while changing tires. Definitely some meat in the fronts!
Hawks are all drilled/slotted/ combination of... and 2 to 4 times the price of "standard" power stop!
For BIG rotors, I've done the rear on a '92 F-Superduty (10 lug Dana 80) - a bit larger. And also my Freightliner 2 1/2 ton front and rear disks. Huge, on another level. A diesel mechanic friend had a few fire trucks; had to get help to lift the rotors! (An he was a strong dude!)
Looked at high carbon drilled slotted and coated rotors last night. From $300 a pair, for top name, down to $89 dollars a pair - all are made in china, and look to be made at same factory!
Next, gotta dig a bit deeper on the hawk pads, yellow stuff and z36.
If you care about braking effectiveness, don't get cheap rotors.
I've got some cheap rotors before that I sent right back because they were slick. Like, the iron mix had too much graphite or something.
Yep. But when the performance ones(from a big name, with higher price), are in the same box as the cheap Chinese (with off brand name on same box) since they were manufactured at the same place, at the same time...
More money CAN mean better quality. Doesn't ALWAYS mean better.
Takes more research than most will take the time to do. There are definitely some cheap ones available (sometimes costing MORE) that are inferior.
EDIT:
Now, good compound pads, that's harder to tell. The Hawk and Yellow Stuff, have been given good feedback
On the "good news" front:
I had to make a panic stop in traffic on I-85...
And, it DID!
Using the brakes gently, the large amount of travel, is not what I'm used to. Not spongy, just a LOT of pedal travel with a small linear change in breaking force, for its first 3/4 of travel. If that explanation works!
But get on down to to last part of the travel - and it's no longer a small increase! plenty of brake left, as my well packed and settled load tried to get in the front with me!
I'd love a better feel, but my wife drove it and didn't bother her... and I no know they are there if she needs 'em.
I'm still wondering if I really got it bled well when I did the front soft lines. I didn't have a tool to cycle the ABS pump and all that. There is a possibility it's that simple.
I'm wondering if the master cylinder needs to be replaced. Long pedal is usually master.
Re brake pads, I'd definitely consider the Hawk LTS. If you were towing heavier, hawk super duty bite hard but dust more. Love them on my dedicated tow vehicle
In reply to Apexcarver :
I've never had to use the software to bleed abs, but when I finally get Forscan communicating, I may do that. It doesn't really feel like it's spongy at all, and doesn't firm up if you pump it. Just the rather long, liner slowness.
Honestly, now that it proved itself, not high on the need to investigate list!
In reply to amg_rx7 (Forum Supporter) :
Master is a good thought. But it had SO much brakes in the hard fast stop, not sure.
With the hard stop showing it will, and keeping trailer brakes maintained (often neglected) I can save a few coins. The hawks would be great, just caused a bit of sticker shock! The Yellow's are even higher.
