mtn
mtn MegaDork
10/12/16 11:30 a.m.

Car does not start--it will crank, but not start. I'm thinking fuel pump, filter, or fuel pump relay. But before I go chasing that, are there any problems with that engine that would jump out at you? This is the 3.0, IIRC, the 6th generation Accord

mtn
mtn MegaDork
10/12/16 2:25 p.m.

Bump--might be looking at this tonight, and know nothing about these engines other than I assume them to be reliable because Honda.

mtn
mtn MegaDork
10/12/16 2:45 p.m.

More info: It started when it was parked a month ago. After sitting for 2 weeks, it started. After sitting for 2 more weeks, it cranks, but does not start.

I think I'm going to jump on this--it sounds like an issue either with a bad battery (strong enough to crank it but not strong enough to crank it all the way), fuel (I'll try priming it a few times before trying to start it), or else the aforementioned fuel pump/filter.

Bobzilla
Bobzilla UltimaDork
10/12/16 3:07 p.m.

Main Relay. I know many shops that have spent hundreds chasing down a fuel problem only to be the $40 relay.

XLR99
XLR99 GRM+ Memberand Dork
10/12/16 3:28 p.m.

Do these still have a distributor with built in coil like the 4cyl of the same era? Just asking because that seems to be a known failure mode for the Civic, which Beans referred to as the Brown Dust of Death.

jfryjfry
jfryjfry Reader
10/12/16 3:34 p.m.

Get a new/charged battery. Then use starting fluid. That will answer a lot of questions

Streetwiseguy
Streetwiseguy PowerDork
10/12/16 3:40 p.m.

Does it have spark? Does the fuel pump cycle when you crank the engine? Does it sound like it has compression? Does it still have gasoline in the tank? Is the security light flashing?

Your original question is way, way too broad.

06HHR
06HHR HalfDork
10/12/16 3:47 p.m.
Bobzilla wrote: Main Relay. I know many shops that have spent hundreds chasing down a fuel problem only to be the $40 relay.

This is the first thing I would check. Every 90's Honda has one and it will die eventually. Solder cracks on the circuit board inside the relay is what kills them.

mtn
mtn MegaDork
10/12/16 4:10 p.m.
Streetwiseguy wrote: Your original question is way, way too broad.

How? My original question was asking if there are common issues with this engine that might cause this. Meaning outside of the typical fuel issues that you can expect with a car that is cranking but not starting. The rest was just more information, and my guesses--but I was making sure that it wasn't something that often indicates catastrophic engine failure.

I'm going tonight to check it out; I'll take a look over it. If it is in overall decent condition I'm going to buy it. Since it ran 2 weeks ago, I'm leaning towards something easy. With that in mind, I'll probably get it registered tomorrow and try to fix it in the parking lot.

Bobzilla
Bobzilla UltimaDork
10/12/16 5:24 p.m.
06HHR wrote:
Bobzilla wrote: Main Relay. I know many shops that have spent hundreds chasing down a fuel problem only to be the $40 relay.
This is the first thing I would check. Every 90's Honda has one and it will die eventually. Solder cracks on the circuit board inside the relay is what kills them.

I've seen percussive maintenance work on them to make them start once.

Streetwiseguy
Streetwiseguy PowerDork
10/12/16 10:29 p.m.
mtn wrote:
Streetwiseguy wrote: Your original question is way, way too broad.
How? My original question was asking if there are common issues with this engine that might cause this.

Problem is, there's a couple dozen things that typically make a car not start. With five minutes looking, and a couple of very basic pieces of information, any answers you get will be about a hundred times more useful.

V6 Honda no starts are typically a bad main relay, a busted or jumped timing belt, a bad crank sensor or distributor, a cooked coil, a dead fuel pump, its flooded because it got started and shut off too many times in a short period, or the security system got confused.

Start there...

mtn
mtn MegaDork
10/12/16 11:31 p.m.

Went and saw the car. Listened to the story--she said she tried to jump it today, and it wouldn't even crank, so she thinks it's the alternator. Hmmm.... Try to move the seat (power seats), and it is moving at half the speed of smell.

I tell her I think it's the battery. She just wants to be done with it. I offer $700, and she accepts. 30 minutes later I've put a new battery in ($140) and am driving it to O'Reilly's to get a code read. That's right, it was a berkeleying battery that was causing the no start.

It is rough going between park, reverse, neutral, and drive, but actually driving it shifts alright. I figure I'll baby it and get a year or two out of it.

There is a clicking sound behind the glove box that sounds like an old cassette player. I'm guessing a fan or else hot/cool blend motor (is that what that is called?)

The clock light is out.

The car surges at idle--and the code at O'Reilly's agreed with that (P0505--there was another related as well).

There was also a code about the abs, something about too much voltage. I didn't get a print out and can't remember now though--in any case, my main concern with the brakes is the sticking parking brake. I pulled it out of habit after driving it around the parking lot. That was dumb. Hoping that I can just remove the spring or pull it back at the wheel, and then never use the parking brake again (slushbox).

Other than that it seems to be in halfway decent condition. After tax title and license, I'll be into it for a little over $1,000--before I attack the pvc and brake issues. If it gets me through the winter I'll be happy--and then I'll steal the wheels from it for the wife's TSX

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