Jvella36 said:
In reply to DarkMonohue :
I get what you're trying to say but I'm trying to find the cheapest solution instead of having to go with an aftermarket ECU to eliminate the electronic throttle body all together. If I knew what the fix was I would fix it. Could it be maybe that the actuator inside of the throttle body is acting up? As I mentioned before I have tested it outside of the throttle body with direct 12v on it and it works great, even the clutch of it works.
Okay, so let's break this down a little bit.
The cheapest solution is typically to diagnose and repair what you have rather than modifying it.
None of us know what the fix is, either - we don't have the car in front of us. We are happy to contribute what we can, but ultimately, either you pay someone to diagnose the car properly or you diagnose it properly yourself. And that is a skill and mindset that is particularly hard to teach over the internet.
Anything is possible, but given what you have said, I would do three things:
1. Perform every bench test you can on the throttle body assembly and pedal. Compare both to known good spares, if possible.
2. With the stock electronic throttle body and pedal fully installed (no shortcuts, no assumptions!), watch the values of every part of them with an OBD reader. Make sure that they report as they should to the ECU and that the ECU opens and closes the throttle as it should.
3. If any part of the above fails, verify continuity of every wire and terminal between the throttle body and the ECU. Find out which wires the ECU reads sensor values from and which ones it sends commands to the throttle body through, and make sure every one of them is perfect.
With typical tools and diagnostic equipment, this is a zero dollar exercise.
Let us know what you find!