Hopefully one of you guru's out there can point me in the right direction. I have a 1999 solara 5 speed donor car that I bought for an mr2 swap. we want to get the engine running in the donor car before pulling it all a part. The reason for not running is the wire harness that runs under the drivers side fender wae destroyed after a tire blew. I just want to make the engine harness stand alone since it is getting pulled anyway.
So I bypassed the ignition switch and energized the main relay, ecu relay, fuel pump relay. I wired in a 12v battery source to eht ecu and switched 12v power to the ecu (there are several wires), and checked all of the grounds on the ecu are grounded. The engine will crank but no spark and no pulses at the fuel injectors, I have checked at the coil, fuel injectors and at the outputs of the ecu. The ecu is not sending out pulses to either the igniter or the injectors. Both the injectors and the coil have 12v power.
My thought is there is an immobilizer issue, The only key I got with the car is a plain steel key and the PO said that is the only key he has ever had. There are wires going into the ecu that would be for the immobilizer, but research is in conclusive on if the 1999 SE Solara should have it or not.
Is there a way to test this? currently dash lights are not working and I had not planned on repairing that part of the harness if I don't need to. Can I get an ecu from a 97 that is supposed to be before the immobilizer and plug it in instead?
Thanks for the help in advance
Vigo
UltimaDork
11/11/18 8:07 p.m.
It might just not be seeing engine rpm. It's not too many wires to reconnect the obd2 port to the pcm, if you have something that can read live data through that.
You say you bypassed the ignition switch...
Is there a maybe a 'cranking' program that is different from standard 'run' program in the ecu? Maybe the ecu only knows which to run based on feedback from the ignition switch, but since right now the ignition switch is neither the ecu is not running either program?
In reply to Robbie :
From what I can tell on the wiring diagram there is nothing special about the start position. I have the key in run and am using a remote start button to jump the starter solenoid.
In reply to Vigo :
I can check the old Port, but not sure if my reader is going to read live crank signal data. I have a Bluetooth adapter, got a favorite app that reads live data?
While I think getting the obd port working would be smart, you can first quickly check that any crank angle and cam angle sensors are connected to the ecu on the correct pins. If they are (and the sensors aren't broken), then the ECU should be getting rpm signal.
Pull the codes. If IGF, I think, isn't present from the coil driver (even coil on plug), it won't charge, fire or inject.
OK update, I wired up the dash lights and the obd port. There is not a security light on the dash so I think that means no immobilizer. I connected to the obd port and only code stored was P0100 Mass air flow sensor, which was OK as I had unplugged it to make some roon while tracing some other wiring. Plug the mass air back in an no codes. So I go to check spark and get a good shock, there is spark, but no fuel. Squirt a little either in there and get a short couple of seconds of rough running. OK time to go to work and I will get the fuel pump working later.
Get home and check fuel pump wires,, yes wire broken, repaired and can hear pump running. Check for pressure at rail by loosening banjo bolt and fuel sprays out with pump running. Lets call that adequate fuel pressure since I don't have a way to measure it. Crank engine and no start, add a bit of starting fluid, nothing. Go back and check spark, none.
I think I am going to have to completely repair the damaged harness as there is probable something grounding out my spark or a ground that is missing on something, not what I wanted to do but not sure there is any other way to be sure.
Thanks for the help guys, and if anyone has a recommendation on an OBD software program to read live data I would like ot get one. Right now I use Torque Lite on my phone but is has very limited real time data available.
Wow, super frustrating. Sounds like you're really close though.
It runs!! After fixing a multitude of POI wiring mistakes, ended up with a bad fuel pump relay and runs great.
https://youtu.be/EvG9AeGnUFs
