2000 Sierra - Brake Bleeding Question

I had a rear brake line bust a few days ago, which lead to replacing all the rear brake lines. Thing is, I can't seem to get the system to bleed.
I've done literally hundreds of brake jobs over the years, and know about every conceivable method of bleeding "normal" non-anitlock brakes, so I don't need a lesson on that. But I'm not really up on some of the specifics about ABS brakes, and I'm thinking that may be where my problem is.
So, can anybody educate me on whatever I need to know to get the rear brakes bled on this rust bucket? Thanks in advance!

You might need to get the ABS system to cycle.

Have you taken it out and driven and tried to get the ABS to cycle? Otherwise, I'd search for info on how to make it happen with truck up on jack stands.

I saw this on another forum. This is specifically for the GMT800 trucks like yours:

Here's what you do, since you don't have a Tech2 to cycle the ABS pump motor while you bleed. Fill the master cylinder, and pressure bleed the brakes like always, in this order. Right rear, left rear, right front, left front. Then take a short test drive over 15 mph, and brake hard enough to make the ABS engage during braking. ABS all the way to the stop. Do that 3 times in a row, then return to your shop/garage/carport/driveway/whatever. Refill the master cylinder again, and pressure bleed the brakes again, in the same order. If your brakes are still spongy, go do the ABS stops again, and bleed the brakes again. I've never seen one need to be bled more then 3 times total, start to finish. Remember to keep checking the master cylinder, and never let it get too low on fluid.

The problem is that I have no fluid between the ABS module and the rear brakes, so I have no pedal. I'm not sure I'd be comfortable driving it like that, especially since I live on a heavily traveled road.

As the tree said, " A little help here"...

You may need to get one of these, if the setup is similar to the GMT400 trucks Prop valve tool It depresses the button at the front of the prop valve so you can bleed the brakes properly.

I have no direct experience with a 2000 Sierra; the closest I've come in a '96 Silverado which had ABS but it was probably more primitive. That said, I'll try to help.

To clarify: the line between your ABS module and the rear brakes is completely empty, no fluid in it? And brake fluid doesn't pass through the ABS module when you've got the rear brake bleeder open and are pushing on the brake pedal?

Could you get the line filled by back-filling it? Put a hose on the brake bleeder, run it to a small reservoir of brake fluid hanging above the level of the ABS module or to a reverse brake bleeder (this kind of thing: http://www.ebay.com/itm/like/271325660471?lpid=82 ) and crack open the line on the ABS module. You would then push fluid into the rear caliper and lines and close the ABS module line when a little fluid starts coming out of that end.

Then bleed as normal. Just an idea.

Try reverse bleeding with a big syringe?

No help here but I have a story.

Bought a 97 Z71 Silverado, brakes always felt like garbage and had heard that was common for them so I didn't really pay attention to it. Time came to do the brakes and tried to bleed them, for four days I tried and couldn't get anything out of the back. Gave in and took it to a shop, they called several hours later with the diagnosis. Instead of replacing a rusted through rear hard line someone had stuck a nail in the rear circuit of the master cylinder.

dculberson wrote: I have no direct experience with a 2000 Sierra; the closest I've come in a '96 Silverado which had ABS but it was probably more primitive. That said, I'll try to help. To clarify: the line between your ABS module and the rear brakes is completely empty, no fluid in it? And brake fluid doesn't pass through the ABS module when you've got the rear brake bleeder open and are pushing on the brake pedal? Could you get the line filled by back-filling it? Put a hose on the brake bleeder, run it to a small reservoir of brake fluid hanging above the level of the ABS module or to a reverse brake bleeder (this kind of thing: http://www.ebay.com/itm/like/271325660471?lpid=82 ) and crack open the line on the ABS module. You would then push fluid into the rear caliper and lines and close the ABS module line when a little fluid starts coming out of that end. Then bleed as normal. Just an idea.

Yes, all lines from the ABS module to the rear brakes are currently new and dry. I'm not sure what's happening when I push the pedal, because it goes to the floor, which would indicate that something is moving or compressing.
I have considered reverse bleeding, but wanted to get an informed answer before resorting to that. Right now I'm thinking that I'll do that, and then try to drive it and engage the ABS like what was previously suggested.
If anyone has a better idea, please let me know.

So I tried every method known to me to bleed the rear brakes and got nothing. So I went to a local shop and told them my problem. The guy said the rear wouldn't bleed without the ABS tool, so I took the truck to them and they bled the system and all is good. I can't believe they make a vehicle that you can't bleed your own brakes on, but apparently this is pretty common. I didn't know that, but now I do.