noddaz
noddaz GRM+ Memberand SuperDork
3/1/18 6:40 p.m.

Just like CL, ran when parked.  Started the truck last maybe 3 months ago.  I checked the inertia switch, it's not tripped.  Bypassed it anyway.  I do not hear the fuel pimp prime when the key is turned to "on".   Just to be sure, checked spark.  Yes, it has spark.  Shot ether down the intake air tube and it ran.  So, back to fuel pump.  I am ready to whack the side of the fuel tank with a rubber mallet.  ( As in, if it doesn't work.  Hit it. If that doesn't work, hit it again.) Why? Because the bed is full of junk including the parts to repair the front.  But this will happen when the weather clears.  And yes, this is the same truck that is whacked in the RF and needs a core support in the other thread.

BTW, is anyone else annoyed by the bells and bongs (?) and beeps and noise that these things make when the key is turned and you are trying to LISTEN for something?  Just askin'.

noddaz

stan
stan GRM+ Memberand UltraDork
3/2/18 8:52 a.m.

My '02 Edge does that too, but I'm -happily- not listening for clues to an issue. Is there a fuse for bells/beeps maybe?

RevRico
RevRico GRM+ Memberand UltraDork
3/2/18 9:15 a.m.

Almost as annoyed as I am about the stupid out of the way lever I need to push to get my keys out of the ignition. 

It's not fun, but I've dropped the tank on my S10 while the bed was still on (and the tank was FULL), if you don't have the gas tank skid plate it shouldn't be too bad to do. 

Stanger2000
Stanger2000 New Reader
3/2/18 12:14 p.m.

Here you go, should direct you in the right direction:

http://troubleshootmyvehicle.com/ford/4.0L/how-to-test-the-fuel-pump-1

I had to do the pump on my '96 last year, the truck always started up and ran but I need to cycle the key on/off a few times and it'll fire right up.  But while it ran, it hesitated very badly under load.  I tested the fuel pressure and it was a little under spec.  I replaced it with a complete Delphi unit.  I had the luxury of an empty bed(long bed) so I opted to remove the 6 T-55 bolts and  slid it back enough to access the top of the pump.  I was working alone so I was unable to lift the bed completely off and it would've been imposible to slide it off  alone without damaging it.  I used about 4 lengths of 2x4's and shimmied them between the bed and frame rails so I could slide it back to get the extra clearance I needed.  I also had to replace the fuel filler neck which was cracked/rotted/leaking.  CHECK THAT FILLER NECK while you're at it.

How much stuff in the bed and more importantly how do those bolts look holding the bed on?  I used plenty of PB Blaster and a 1/2 breaker bar (carefully) to back them out, then zipped them off with an impact(wear earmuffs if you can).   My past experience servicing fuel pumps in Fox Mustangs typically sucked, so if said pump can be made accessible from up top I'd certainly opt for that option.  That is of course assuming no access to a lift to begin with. 

clshore
clshore New Reader
3/2/18 5:44 p.m.

Got a 2001 B2500 in my driveway with a bad fuel pump.

I'm just too old and too brittle at this point to struggle with dropping the fuel tank.

Blue Book is only about $500, despite a rust free dent free body, new clutch, aluminum wheels and good tires.

So paying to fix it is a non-starter.

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