So, my folks are working 7-day weeks with a few 12 hour shifts mixed in so I volunteered to do some maintenance on their cars. First one I get is their 2003 Chevy Silverado 1500, 2wd, 5.3L 4L60E trans with 183k miles on the original drivetrain. I changed the spark plugs, changed the oil, cleaned the pile of gunk out of the throttle body, rotated the tires and greased up all the balljoints/tierods. Ran great. Drove it to work this morning and noticed that at 70mph it's sitting at 2400-2600rpms. Then I realized the Torque converter is not locking up.
Checked the fluid, it's a bit burnt, but not excessively and the level is spot on. Have not hooked up the scanner, but there's no CEL and nothing really odd going on that stands out. The only thing I notices is cold the 1-2 shift is a little harsh, but there's no flare or slip, just a quick, harsh shift.
Ideas?
Couple things off the top of my head...
1.- TCC solenoid is AWOL.
2.- TCC circuit has trash blocking the feed to the converter.
3.- TCC is plain slap wore out, along with probably everything else inside.
^ That's pretty much what I learned a little bit ago as well. I got a guy here that will do a complete rebuild with new converter for $700.
Are you sure you didn't select 3rd on account of a sloppy linkage? I want to say these were geared DEEP.
I don't think so. 3rd without lockup is well over 3k even with 265/75/17's and 3.42's....
My chevy van had the same symptoms shortly before it died. Yet to take it apart to diagnose the issue. Also a 4-l60e.
Bobzilla wrote:
^ That's pretty much what I learned a little bit ago as well. I got a guy here that will do a complete rebuild with new converter for $700.
Bench job or drop off and fix?
Definately not in third as it dropped down at one point when I gave the throttle a little "too much".
$700 for me to yank it and pop it back in, he does a complete rebuild with new convertor. THe guy doing it is trustworthy.... something that is hard to find anymore.
In reply to Bobzilla:
That's not too bad of a price, especially if he is going to update all the hard parts, solenoids, new seperator plate and put in a Sure Cure kit for the valvebody.
Yep... I'm basically paying for parts and a little labor. Let me rephrase that.... DAD is paying for that. lol. Oh well, at least he can afford to do it with all the OT they're working.
I just hope my 06 CC lasts that long before needing a trans rebuild.
Bobzilla wrote:
I just hope my 06 CC lasts that long before needing a trans rebuild.
KNOCKING ON WOOD
I got 145k on the wife's Av right now... It needs another fluid/filter change due, but I suspect it has lasted as long as it has because I threw in almost a gallon of tractor fluid in it when I did the last filter change.
my 06 is at 71k miles and it's had 2 fluid/filter changes so far.
Bobzilla wrote:
my 06 is at 71k miles and it's had 2 fluid/filter changes so far.
Fluid and filter change can often work miracles.
The secret to getting 250k out of a slushbox is easy, KEEP CLEAN COOL FLUID IN IT FLOWING THROUGH A CLEAN FILTER. Works every time.
Kenny_McCormic wrote:
The secret to getting 250k out of a slushbox is easy, KEEP CLEAN COOL FLUID IN IT FLOWING THROUGH A CLEAN FILTER. Works every time.
And don't overload it.
Don't tow in OD overloaded.
Don't drive like a maniac monkey hopped on speed or meth while towing overloaded.
And the list can go on and on from there....
Ranger50 wrote:
Couple things off the top of my head...
1.- TCC solenoid is AWOL.
2.- TCC circuit has trash blocking the feed to the converter.
3.- TCC is plain slap wore out, along with probably everything else inside.
Don't forget PWM solenoid. They fail frequently as well. Another common problem is the internal wiring harness, but that would typically throw a code right away.
You can test the solenoids by removing them one at a time, taking the clip and plate out above them, then jamming the valve open with a piece of 3/8" rubber fuel hose and putting the plate and clip back in. Fill it up, put it in gear. If it tries to kill the engine, most likely a bad solenoid. If it doesn't, its either a blocked passage or fried TC clutches.
Either way, if its coming out, do the rebuild. At that age, there is no use patching up one or two problems, just do it right. Make sure he replaces all solenoids (they're about $17 each), the separator plate, and the internal wiring harness. The harness not only can fail, but it has an inline temperature sensor that likes to fail making the PCM think that the tranny fluid is always -60 degrees.
$700 is spot-on for a soft parts rebuild. If you request the extras, or if he finds things like burnt steels or something, expect the possibility that it will turn into $1000 real fast. Another somewhat common failure is a cracked input drum, but that has vastly different symptoms so I don't think you'll encounter that.
But, be armed with this knowledge. I used to buy 4L60 kits with steels and a converter for $138. Solenoids $18-25 each depending on which ones. Internal harnesses were pretty cheap but I forget how much. Separator plate I would just get directly from GM since they could match it up with the VIN and save the trial and error from the tranny parts house. I think they were $17 from GM parts. The parts are cheap. You're paying for the labor and expertise.
^ didn't catch that post until today. I pulled his trans this weekend and it's getting done this week. A few things I noticed while I was there, like all 3 u-joints are original, O2 sensors were all original etc.
Some things that annoyed me... when the hell did they swap to NINE bellhousing bolts? Whiskey Tango Foxtrot was that needed for? Exhaust manifold studs.... 2' breaker bar, 3' "cheater bar" on top of that and bracing my body against the frame to use my legs/arms/back/everything for them to let go. How does that happen and all 6 not snap off?
Bobzilla wrote:
^ didn't catch that post until today. I pulled his trans this weekend and it's getting done this week. A few things I noticed while I was there, like all 3 u-joints are original, O2 sensors were all original etc.
Typical. Unless it doesn't work or if it makes noise, nobody replaces that stuff.
Bobzilla wrote:
Some things that annoyed me... when the hell did they swap to NINE bellhousing bolts? Whiskey Tango Foxtrot was that needed for?
It is all for that dreaded NVH monster.
Bobzilla wrote:
Exhaust manifold studs.... 2' breaker bar, 3' "cheater bar" on top of that and bracing my body against the frame to use my legs/arms/back/everything for them to let go. How does that happen and all 6 not snap off?
You are gifted. 
Gifted? Or "gifted"? lol. I thought I was just lucky.
LOL... I have a 6.0L with 4.10 gears... I wish I could turn RPMs that low ;)
that's not low.... my 06 CC with the 4.8 and 3.23's turns 2k rpms at 80mph.
I think i only have one vehicle that approaches those "bad" RPMs on the highway. The rest FAR exceed it.
YEAH... the worst offender I have is the motorcycle, and then the accent. Accent sits at 3200rpms @ 70mph. Forte is at 2400, Corvette at 2200, and the truck at 1750.
Bobzilla wrote:
YEAH... the worst offender I have is the motorcycle, and then the accent. Accent sits at 3200rpms @ 70mph. Forte is at 2400, Corvette at 2200, and the truck at 1750.
Jeep is at 2300rpms i think...
Celica was at 3000rpms. (Should be dropped when it finally hits the road.)
MX6 @ 3000rpms.
Escort was at 3200rpms, will be around 3600rpms.
Miata is at 3500-3600rpms.
Ugh.
Miata is almost Fit territory! I still laugh thinking that Pat's little Fit is screaming at 4k while mine's at 2k, with twice the number of pistons. Means my piston speed is a quarter of his. 
