You know the standard CV joint noise test where are drive low speed circles at high steer angles, listening for clicks and clunks? Well, I just did that in a 2005 9-2x w/138k miles. No CV joint noise detected. But the car shuddered as if the brakes were dragging. More steer angle = more shudder. Anyone know what could cause this?
in regular driving I heard what I thought was rear wheel bearing noise, rumble above 30mph. Now I wonder if the two are related, and if I'm mis-diagnosing the wheel bearing noise. Something in the AWD, perhaps?
Seller (not a car guy) said he noticed it when he bought the car 3 years ago, and someone told him the front diff fluid needed changing. I think he said he did not have the front diff fluid changed.
It is otherwise a very nice little car at a good price and I would like to buy it, but I will not buy it until I know more about possible causes.
Sounds like classic awd torque bind. If it's a stick, most likely a bad viscous coupling in the trans. If it's an automagic, bad awd clutch pack or solenoid. The autos can sometimes be fixed with fluid changes. Could also be a failing diff. Do the tires all match and have equally worn treads?
In reply to flat4_5spd :
Automatic.
funny thing: dude asked me if I had ever heard about Sube AWD being sensitive to tread depth. I did not know this was a thing, but I've heard from 3 independent sources now that it is indeed a thing.
FWIW the tires are same brand and same date. The rears had more tread than the fronts, but I didn't think it was egregious.
hard no?
Dammit, now this is bugging me. If it currently only shows up on high steer angles, what are the odds that fresh fluid and additive (if there is an OE additive) and matched tires would make it live another 50k (currently at 138k and not a rust bucket at all)?
Just a sample of one- I bought a '98 Legacy 4EAT with 200+ k miles that had torque bind when hot. I did a couple of ATF drain and fills and it was fine for several years afterward until I got rid of it for other reasons. AFAIK, there is no "anti torque bind" additive (AWD clutch pack shares fluid with the trans, so anything that promoted slippage in the awd pack would promote slippage in the rest of the trans.) I have heard that people can change the clutch pack with the trans in situ, but I don't have any experience with that.)
FYI, Subarus spec for tires is a max 1/4" difference in circumference.
Expanding on flat4's Subaru spec for tire circumference, that is a very small tolerance! Take a dress maker's tape measure to all 4 tires. Measure your stagger, this could be as simple as one tire gaining circumference due to a belt separation.
Early CRVs are another excellent example of this same problem. They need fresh rear diff oil every few years, or they bind up and hop all over.
My buddy's wrx has a switch installed in the dash to turn the AWD on and off. Likely due to a binding issue. The switch fixed it.
berkeley! Shoulda bought it. It was gone by the time I reached out again a few hours later. Then I went to look at a CRV that didn't mention "oh, the AC didn't work when we bought it and we never fixed it" or "oh, rad support is so bent that the coolant overflow bottle is smashed against and punctured by the AC compressor." For a 2006 with 156k and asking $6900.
flat4_5spd said:
Sounds like classic awd torque bind. If it's a stick, most likely a bad viscous coupling in the trans. If it's an automagic, bad awd clutch pack or solenoid. The autos can sometimes be fixed with fluid changes. Could also be a failing diff. Do the tires all match and have equally worn treads?
i am pretty sure that Subaru stopped doing electric diff locks with the first generation Legacy, an automatic '05 should have an actual differential.
I appreciate the education I'm getting in this thread. Y'all are the best.
