No steam out the tailpipe, no milkshake in the oil pan, no leaks on a dry cement floor? I have looked everywhere but can't seem to find it? Other thoughts or suggestions?
No steam out the tailpipe, no milkshake in the oil pan, no leaks on a dry cement floor? I have looked everywhere but can't seem to find it? Other thoughts or suggestions?
Pressure test it. Could be radiator seam or the cap, pinhole on a hose, heater core, or a small crack or the hose in overflow tank. Just went through this on my Volvo. Replaced hoses, and overflow tank, fixed it. Just discovered a small seam leak in radiator.
No radiator cap just a cap on the coolant reservoir. Do you pressurize the coolant reservoir on these newer cars?
Yes.
Make sure to watch along the right side of the vehicle where the coolant tubes to the rear heat go.
Check the transmission fluid, I have seen more than a few cross leak.
Paul
In reply to Donebrokeit :
Forgot about the transmission cooling lines! Good idea.
In reply to Knurled. :
Rear heater core? Great googly moogly.
Yes, the plastic coolant reservoir is pressurized with the rest of the system. You can rent a pressure tester from parts stores, i believe. The one Harbor Freight sells is actually pretty dang decent too, but it's ~$90. It's the one i have.
You never said which engine you have, but Wikipedia says a 2006 can only have the 3.5. I once had a 3.5L 1st gen Intrepid with the early version of that engine, which had a coolant leak that took me literally OVER A YEAR to find. These engines have a timing belt driven water pump. They also have a plate between the water pump and the block with orings on both sides. Looking at the front of the motor, the stackup would be [Outer timing cover > Water pump > Oring > Inner Timing Cover > Oring > Engine block]. On my 3.5, the orings between the inner timing cover and the block were leaking only under full pressure, and it was such a small leak that the only external evidence i ever found of this leak was a small accumulation of granular crud (what antifreeze leaves behind when it boils off/evaporates) at the base of the engine V where the steam was coming up between the timing cover and engine block. It took me MANY MANY failed pressure tests and visual inspections to find that one!
I'm not saying that's what yours is doing, but it is something that is possible that could throw even a trained mechanic for a loop. I'd just pressure test it and see what happens. Let's hope it's something more common and easier!
Both of my 05 T&C's have needed radiators in the past year. Both failed at the top crimp.
The first was obvious where the problem was, the second took me a few months until the perfect cold morning, and I was able to see a bit of steam in the front/left area and track it down. Both held pressure when cold.
If it is the radiator, the dealer has practically as good as a parts store pricing. That's where I bought mine.
In reply to Vigo :
Thank you, this was the kind of information I was looking for. Most of my experience with water pumps is that when they fail they leak and it's pretty obvious. I will inspect this area very closely. Off to find the Holy Grail now that I have a map
I was going to ask how slow the leak is. The slowest ones are the most maddening.
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