No clue what's going on and there are no codes being shown. Looking for input from the hive mind.
https://www.youtube.com/embed/vmMOrsYYzKc
This is sitting still and the system seems to want to add in electric power randomly. It does this going down the road as well - the blending of power supplies is off. Works great when only on electric power and great when only on the V6. Mix the two and it feels like a weird misfire.
Odd for sure. I'll poke around and see what I can find.
You don't happen to have any devices plugged into the data link connector, do you? We've been seeing weird issues lately with some of those monitoring devices that insurance companies push, like modules not shutting down when you turn the ignition off.
I have had a bluetooth OBD transmitter plugged in for a couple months for use with the torque app. I can try taking it out.
Edit: tried taking it out. No difference.
That would be a wise first step. All network buses go through the DLC, consequently all network buses can be compromised by anything that plugs into the DLC.
Plus, it's really easy to do! Just remove it and see if the problems go away.
qued
New Reader
11/27/16 12:35 p.m.
If we are guessing, accelerator pedal potentiometer.
qued
New Reader
11/27/16 12:37 p.m.
If it was the accelerator the engine would rev along with the electric motor exerting itself. That's not what's happening.
Well, that's the easy thing out of the way. I'll see if I can find anything tomorrow at work.
I agree, highly unlikely to be pedal related, as it doesn't fit the failure profile. The strange thing is that the dash needle moves when sitting still, which indicates to me that for whatever reason, the controller is actually commanding the motor to do what it's doing.
it doesn't have a keyboard, so maybe try disconnecting the battery to reset the electronics.
qued
New Reader
11/27/16 7:29 p.m.
http://repairpal.com/recall/13V396000
There was a recall for the Intelligent Power Module (IPM), part of the inverter.
And the culprit was..... engine misfire due to faulty spark plug. Cylinder #2 had cracked ceramic.
Dealer wanted $761 to change the plugs. I had them replace the cracked plug and went on my way with plans on doing the rest myself this weekend.
Just replacing that one plug completely solved the issue.
Vigo
PowerDork
11/29/16 10:13 a.m.
I'm surprised that cause so much of an issue.
I'm not, and in hindsight it makes sense, the torque drop would get compensated by the electric motor and the computer wasn't quite doing it right. Although, you'd think the PCM would notice the misfire.
I've seen faulty coils cause trucks to stay running when you shut them off, because the RFI was interfering with the networks.
When it was happening I first though of sparkplugs but dismissed it. Occam's Razor.
TGMF
Reader
11/29/16 12:58 p.m.
misfire counters for these hybrids are a bit iffy, so you cant rely on those alone. The hybrid motors rattle due to a misfire and cause all sorts of fake misfire codes.
Stick with Denso iridium or at least platinum plugs, do em yourself. These engines do not like other brands. Even "performance" oriented plugs. It can be (and is) done without taking the manifold off using various extensions, and some sacrificial layers of skin.
I didn't believe you could do the Toyota V6s without pulling the plenum until I saw someone do it.
It's not really HARD to lift the plenum, maybe ten-fifteen minutes off and a little more back on. It doesn't need to come all the way off, just up enough to get access, so there's a lot of plumbing that can stay attached.
Use whatever spark plug part number (probably NGK, Denso, or a choice between the two) that the owner's manual calls for, no substitutions.
Vigo
PowerDork
11/30/16 9:26 a.m.
I'm not, and in hindsight it makes sense, the torque drop would get compensated by the electric motor and the computer wasn't quite doing it right.
I get that, i just thought the engine wasn't even running anyway in the vid posted. Probably didn't have my speakers up loud enough while diagnosing cars on the internet at work.