Hello! I am having a small issue with my 2012 Mazda Mazda2; the spark plugs are not sparking!
A story explaining what occurred:
I was driving and the serpentine belt began whining (high pitch squeeling noise); the acceleration fluctuated and within 30min while traveling between 5mph and 15mph the serpentine belt snapped apart (broke). I was trapped in traffic and had no where to exit nor a safe shoulder to pull over on. I quickly realized what had just occurred when I smelled burned rubber, saw the CEL/MIL light turn on along with the check battery light! I pulled over as soon as I could.
I tried changing the serpentine belt and soon after realized that the serpentine belt tensioner pulley's bearings were seized. I immediately removed the belt and sat for an hour.
For reasons I cannot say: I was forced into driving (pulling over everytime the engine temperature sensor emitted and started blinking and for as long as I could hold out for, safely).
The engine inevitably overheated which caused the cylinder head to warp (by about ~55mm). I have since then managed to replace the cylinder head along with the master cylinder head gasket.
At that point: The spark plugs properly worked. Currently, for reasons unknown: The spark plugs do not produce a spark.
A summary of the issues experienced:
- Spark plugs do not produce a spark
A summary of what was damaged and how:
- Engine overheated
- Cylinder head warped
- Crankshaft position sensor partially melted
- Camshaft sensor partially melted
A summary of parts replaced:
- Cylinder head (mildly warped; compression values are within specs)
- Crankshaft position sensor (new)
- Camshaft position sensor (new)
- Waterpump (new)
- Idler pulley (new)
- Serpentine belt tensioner (used)
- Serpentine belt (new)
- Spark plugs (x4; all new)
- Ignition coils (x4; all new)
A summary of parts tested:
- Fuses (all passed; x1 15amp fuse blade went missing)
- Relays resistance readings (all but one passed; x1 reading at 66ohms; unknown DC volts until later this week)
- Spark plugs (in specs; gapped properly)
- Crankshaft position sensor air gap (within specs)
- Ignition coils (13yr old parts tested within specs; one mysteriously damaged while I was at work); new ones have NOT been tested!
The wiring harness, the PCM/ECU (from within the air box where the two large 40-pin connector boxes conjoin at) or a relay (IG 1, IG 2 or the Ignition switch found under the steering wheel on the lower right) are the only culprits I could conceive of.
The pin outs can be found at the following URL:
- https://www.ma2auto.com/pcm-1110.html
The "main relay" reference can be found at the following URL:
- https://www.ma2auto.com/engine_control_system_operation_inspection-1075.html
The OBD II reader last said that the PCM could not talk to the TCM (which rendered opening the hatchback electronically impossible); someone had bent the white wire while I was away at work (they broke into my car and have repeatedly; other damages have not been found).
Aside from that DTC: I cannot think of any others. I can, upon request reconnect the battery and read the OBD II DTCs (the engine cannot run; the key will go as far as ACC due to the no-spark-condition).
To clarify: The motor turns over from the starter motor; the engine's pistons are timed with the dual overhead cams and harmonic balancer as well (10th tooth using the visual aids and manually inspecting the valves being depressed with the DOHC); to the best of my knowledge: It IS timed correctly! There is no spark being generated.
Is there anything I could be missing...? The main fuses (from just after the battery's positive terminal) are all three in good, functional and working condition. A preliminary test showed continuity from one wire traveling from the main harness' connector box (PCM) all the way to the ignition coil's wire (the only one I tested that still failed to produce a spark).
The battery is filled with a mixture of: Tap water, sulferic acid and magnesium sulfate (a lesser acidic medium than sulferic acid; as someone had broke into my car and dumped it on the ground). The battery both holds a charge and was last reading/tested at: 12.7v+ (90% - 100% charge).
I have access to a MULTIMETER; not an oscilliscope! I am pretty sure the battery is not the culprit, but am open to any suggestion.
Thank you in advance. :)
