Any chance this could be exempt for slower vehicles:
NHRA Rulebook said:
8:4 MASTER CUTOFF
Mandatory when battery is relocated, or as outlined in Class
Requirements. An electrical power cutoff switch (one only) must
be installed on the rearmost part of each vehicle and be easily
accessible from outside the car body. This cutoff switch must be
connected to the positive side of the electrical system and must
stop all electrical functions including magneto ignition. The off
position must be clearly indicated with the word “OFF.” If switch is
“push/pull” type, “push” must be the action for shutting off the
electrical system, “pull” to turn it on. Any rods or cables used to
activate the switch must be minimum 1/8-inch diameter. Plastic or
keyed switches prohibited. Switches and/or controls must be
located behind rear wheels on rear-engine dragsters.
If not, no big deal, I'll just keep the battery under the hood, but it would be nice to relocate the battery to the truck bed without having to drill a hole in the rear bumper or tailgate for a cutoff switch.
And this rule doesn't bother me, but I just wanted others to see that it exists, in case it gets enforced, since zip ties and tape tend to be a pretty common method of securing parts from my memory of past events:
NHRA Rulebook said:
4:7 MOUNTING HARDWARE
Hose clamps and tie wraps may be used only to support hoses and
wires; all other components must be welded, bolted, aircraft
clamped, etc. All self-locking fastener buttons must be metallic. All
self-locking fastener buttons may be painted any color on their face,
but must be WHITE or SILVER ONLY under the face. This rule
applies to ALL cars in ALL classes. All electrical, instrumentation,
etc. connection boxes (e.g., exhaust temperature sensor/data
recorder boxes and similar components) must either be securely
(no wire ties, hose clamps, Velcro, etc.) attached to the engine,
frame, bellhousing, etc. OR be constrained by a .060-inch-diameter
stainless-steel multi-strand cable/lanyard such that it will not drop to
the ground or contact a tire if any of the connecting wires break,
OR be located such that they will fall into the body/belly pan if any
of the connecting wires break.
Right now, this is the list:
Windows must be rolled up during drag runs (if you don't have windows, you'll be required to wear a full-face helmet).
Welded differentials prohibited.
Mandatory C-clip eliminators.
Manual transmissions: Rules related to SFI-approved scattershields, bell housings, flywheels and clutches.
Personally, I'd like to see battery cutoff switches on cars with relocated batteries. Relocation often means more wire, which more more opportunity for a short.
petegossett wrote:
In reply to Tom Suddard:
I have a question on spreadsheet implementation: I ordered all my brake parts from Rockauto and used their discount code posted on here. Since their invoice shows individual part pricing, then total discount followed by total shipping, can I just list the individual items & prices by line, then show the total shipping-discount on one single part? Or would you prefer I pro-rate it by line item?
Like this:
Brake rotor - front: $32.66
Brake rotor - rear: $29.64
etc.
Master cylinder: $99.00 Shipping: $32.20(which is $46.96-shipping minus $14.76-discount)
Please pro-rate it by line item. That way, if you take one of the parts off your build next year, you don't have to completely reengineer your budget.
In reply to eastsidemav:
And everyone please note it says "electrical power cutoff switch" not just battery. The switch should cut alternator power also.
In reply to Tom Suddard:
In searching for my longer battery cable I found a factory battery cable in a BMW 7 series with the insulation chaffed off under the back seat. The Mercedes cables seemed much better protected.
Tom Suddard wrote:
Personally, I'd like to see battery cutoff switches on cars with relocated batteries. Relocation often means more wire, which more more opportunity for a short.
No problem. Thanks for the quick response.
Is there anything else you guys would like to see added to the list? It's time to wrap this up.
Ooh, just thought of one that would affect both the autox and drag portion. Will competitors still be able to get away with cracked windshields? I've got no horse in this race this time, but replaced the windshield (and took the budget hit) due to a very minor crack on our $2005 Challenge car, turned up for the event, and saw at least one vehicle competing with a way worse windshield. In later events, I saw it happening, too.
I seem to recall there was ambiguity in the past, kind of a bring it that way, and you may or may not be allowed to run, but I don't think I've seen anyone turned away for it.
In reply to Tom Suddard:
I'm fine with all the loopholes as they are.
Metal lines, brake and fuel. Exempt or not? What about the clamps to secure them?
eastsidemav wrote:
Ooh, just thought of one that would affect both the autox and drag portion. Will competitors still be able to get away with cracked windshields? I've got no horse in this race this time, but replaced the windshield (and took the budget hit) due to a very minor crack on our $2005 Challenge car, turned up for the event, and saw at least one vehicle competing with a way worse windshield. In later events, I saw it happening, too.
I seem to recall there was ambiguity in the past, kind of a bring it that way, and you may or may not be allowed to run, but I don't think I've seen anyone turned away for it.
I'm curious about that too, as the Vette has a vertical crack on the passenger's side that doesn't impair driver vision, but I wondered whether I need to replace it?
petegossett wrote:
eastsidemav wrote:
Ooh, just thought of one that would affect both the autox and drag portion. Will competitors still be able to get away with cracked windshields? I've got no horse in this race this time, but replaced the windshield (and took the budget hit) due to a very minor crack on our $2005 Challenge car, turned up for the event, and saw at least one vehicle competing with a way worse windshield. In later events, I saw it happening, too.
I seem to recall there was ambiguity in the past, kind of a bring it that way, and you may or may not be allowed to run, but I don't think I've seen anyone turned away for it.
I'm curious about that too, as the Vette has a vertical crack on the passenger's side that doesn't impair driver vision, but I wondered whether I need to replace it?
My personal opinion is if it could be taped up, and not significantly affect the driver's vision, I'd have no problem with it. At that point, if something (like an errant piece of gravel tossed up by the wheels on the autox course) causes further damage to the windshield, the existing damage shouldn't make it any less safe. I tend to play it safe, though - it'd suck to show up with a cracked windshield, not get to run.
Dusterbd13 wrote:
Metal lines, brake and fuel. Exempt or not? What about the clamps to secure them?
Brake yes fuel no, as of the last iteration of the rules i saw. Clamps in budget.
What about proportioning valves? Our Stock one is dead, and with it being an amc, good luck finding another. So wed put an adjustable in.
In reply to Dusterbd13:
The master of all things rules said:
Brake friction materials, lines, calipers, master cylinders, rotors and drums may be replaced with fresh ones that are functional duplicates.
Nothing about proportioning valve so I'd include it in your budget.
That reminds me. I know where there's one in the junkyard. I need to grab it.
Yep, proportioning valve needs to be in budget.
No cracked windshields.
NHRA Rulebook said:
Windshields and/or windows on all cars, when called for under Class Requirements, must be of safety glass, Plexiglas, Lexan, or other shatterproof material, minimum 1/8-inch thick. Windshields may not be attached with self-locking fastener buttons. In all Mello Yello Drag Racing Series and Lucas Oil Drag Racing Series vehicles, windshields and/or windows must be clear, without tinting or coloring, except factory-tinted safety glass. In all other applications, windshield/window tint must meet the applicable state requirements. Windshield/window must be in good condition and free from cracks. Competition number decals are permitted on any window, windshield or backlite, except as noted in Class Requirements. Tape of any kind prohibited on any windshield or window.
http://promod.nhra.com/userfiles/file/Tech/2017_NHRA_Rulebook_Gen.%20Regs.pdf
Are there any other exemptions you all would like?
Okay. Just so I understand. Relocated batteries require a rear-mounted cut off master switch? Is the switch excluded from budget as a safety item?
EDIT....I WOULD GUESS NOT AS I JUST REREAD THE 2017 RULES AND WOULD THINK A RELOCATED BATTERY MIGHT BE A PERFORMANCE ADVANTAGE.
We put ours in the budget. Also, make sure that the kill actually kills the car. Have to run alternator charge wire to the battery side of the kill, or the car will stay running.
What's an alternator? Sounds heavy
what's a Battery? I know of a magneto that I can get for less than an HEI, I ran an old Sportster with one and no Battery or starter it was Bump start. But it did have a generator and lights were on but only when the engine was running. Damn the wheels are turning again.
So, I thought that I had this figured out, but in talking with eastsidemav we're not totally certain how the official ruling on it will go, so I guess I need to ask for official judgement.
The salvage yards here (and elsewhere I imagine) have what they call 'pull-a-thons', where you pay one set blanket price regardless of what you're carrying with the restriction that you have to actually carry what you're buying for 20 feet (or so) with little or no assistance (some allow a length of rope, most allow two people to cooperate but both pay the fee.
Our debate is how to handle this and subsequent sell-offs. Does the purchase count as a 'batch' where you've paid one price for everything and thus selling any one thing drops the total price for everything? Or is is, as eastsidemav theorized, akin to having a large bulk discount where the effective price of each item is proportional to what you'd normally pay, such that you'd never zero out any one individual item?
Since that's a bit confusing, some examples...
Batch ruling: I buy 5 spoilers for the $80 flat fee. I sell four of them at $20 each, leaving me with one free (both in budget and in reality) spoiler. Also, any other parts picked up at the same time are also free.
Proportional: I buy the same 5 spoilers for the $80 flat fee, and sell four for $20 each. However, using the proportional rule, each one effectively cost $16- so regardless of how much I sell the others for, the remaining spoiler will always cost $16. It obviously gets more complex when you have multiple items- if I'd bought an ECU as well which they charge a lot more for than a spoiler, the individual cost of the spoilers would drop a good bit- but would also never be zero unless you sold that actual spoiler (or whatever other part you're talking about).
Thoughts? Official rulings? Obviously the batch approach is far simpler, and has the advantage budget-wise of zeroing out parts that you buy. But it also requires actually SELLING the other parts successfully, whereas the proportional rule knocks down the price of the items regardless of whether you are able to sell the others or not.
