2017 Subaru Crosstrek AWD rear wheel bearings

Friend of mine has a '17 Crosstrek, he said was making a weird noise. His wife took it to the dealership and they told her it needed both rear wheel bearings and it would cost about $1100 to fix. I have never worked on one of these  and  it's been 15 years since I worked in an automotive dealership, but that sounds excessive. Has anyone here ever replaced bearings on one or had it done ? I  have not looked at it yet, but I did suspension work and alignments for a long time. Just curious if it takes special tools I may or may not have or if I should tell them to "pay the man". 

The dealer also "found" about $1500 worth of other repairs it needs.  I would suggest a second opinion from another dealer, but the next closest one is 2 1/2 to 3 hours away. 

Thanks for any advice or suggestions. 

I dont think its out of line for a dealership. Hubs could easily bear 250-400 dollars each, and labor has being going up quickly. Ive seen almost 200 an hour. They do also seem to be a very common failure.

Thats not to say you couldnt do it much much cheaper. Get some aftermarket hubs for about half price or less and its not a bad job. About the only thing ive had trouble with is getting the hub separated from the knuckle. Its been a problem on pretty much every subaru Ive worked on, but a lot of heat and a big ass hammer has always prevailed. You could save them a bunch of money doing it. They could probably save a few hundred dollars having an independent do it. I doubt they will save much at a different dealer.

Looks like the parts are expensive from Subaru ($250 each) so that dealer quote is probably reasonable. They're bolt in hub/bearing assemblies so it should be fairly straightforward though I've never done it so I don't know how complicated it is to disassemble the brakes or how good Subaru is at corrosion resistance these days. Aftermarket bearings are as cheap as $60ish but the cheapest ones I'd probably trust are in the $100-150 range.

You will need a 32mm socket for the axle nut and a 14mm socket for the two caliper to suspension bolts and the four bearing to suspension bolts.  Lift the caliper off the rotor, slide the rotor off the hub.  Remove the ABS sensor now, maybe 20% chance that the bolt will break off and will have to be drilled out and retapped.

Then, because the hub is rusted solidly in place,  you need need a way to beat it out.  Easiest way is with a tool like this:

that bolts to two of the studs and then you beat the E36 M3 out of it with a 10lb sledge until it breaks free from the suspension.

It will still have the brake backing plate attached to it, and it is now dangling by the handbrake cable.

Now you get your finger sander out and clean as much rust as you can off of the part of the bearing that is sticking out of the backing plate.  Then, get your oxyacelylene torch set out and heat the backing plate around the bearing until it's dull red.  Don't worry about burning the paint off, it's rusty now anyway.  Once it is hot, hold it in one hand and whack the bearing out with a 3lb hammer in the other hand.  Might need an air hammer.

While it is cooling, use a cookie in a die grinder to clean the bore in the suspension so the new bearing slips in.  Use a carbide bit to clean the wheel speed sensor bore out so the sensor slips in.

Installation is the reverse of removal, except without all the heating and beating.

The OP shows to be in Arkansas so maybe he'll have an easier time of it than rust belt cars. 

Pete. (l33t FS) said:

You will need a 32mm socket for the axle nut and a 14mm socket for the two caliper to suspension bolts and the four bearing to suspension bolts.  Lift the caliper off the rotor, slide the rotor off the hub.  Remove the ABS sensor now, maybe 20% chance that the bolt will break off and will have to be drilled out and retapped.

 

Then, because the hub is rusted solidly in place,  you need need a way to beat it out.  Easiest way is with a tool like this:

that bolts to two of the studs and then you beat the E36 M3 out of it with a 10lb sledge until it breaks free from the suspension.

 

It will still have the brake backing plate attached to it, and it is now dangling by the handbrake cable.

 

Now you get your finger sander out and clean as much rust as you can off of the part of the bearing that is sticking out of the backing plate.  Then, get your oxyacelylene torch set out and heat the backing plate around the bearing until it's dull red.  Don't worry about burning the paint off, it's rusty now anyway.  Once it is hot, hold it in one hand and whack the bearing out with a 3lb hammer in the other hand.  Might need an air hammer.

 

While it is cooling, use a cookie in a die grinder to clean the bore in the suspension so the new bearing slips in.  Use a carbide bit to clean the wheel speed sensor bore out so the sensor slips in.

 

Installation is the reverse of removal, except without all the heating and beating.

That's pretty accurate, I'd say.

FWIW, my co-worker has a Legacy that had the rear bearings die under warranty, and my boss has a Crosstrek with bad bearings at 65k.  It's a known entity.

I think if you search the intarwebz you'll find enough tutorials that you can tackle it yourself.

In reply to Cousin_Eddie (Forum Supporter) :

Weve had this problem in TX, pretty much the only hubs that give me problems are Dodge 8 lugs and rear subarus. I have no idea why.

In reply to Cousin_Eddie (Forum Supporter) :

Yes, in Arkansas.  Rust is usually not to bad around here. But this guy lives down a dirt road. He is pretty OCD, so it may not be a problem. 

Pete. (l33t FS) said:

You will need a 32mm socket for the axle nut and a 14mm socket for the two caliper to suspension bolts and the four bearing to suspension bolts.  Lift the caliper off the rotor, slide the rotor off the hub.  Remove the ABS sensor now, maybe 20% chance that the bolt will break off and will have to be drilled out and retapped.

 

Then, because the hub is rusted solidly in place,  you need need a way to beat it out.  Easiest way is with a tool like this:

that bolts to two of the studs and then you beat the E36 M3 out of it with a 10lb sledge until it breaks free from the suspension.

 

It will still have the brake backing plate attached to it, and it is now dangling by the handbrake cable.

 

Now you get your finger sander out and clean as much rust as you can off of the part of the bearing that is sticking out of the backing plate.  Then, get your oxyacelylene torch set out and heat the backing plate around the bearing until it's dull red.  Don't worry about burning the paint off, it's rusty now anyway.  Once it is hot, hold it in one hand and whack the bearing out with a 3lb hammer in the other hand.  Might need an air hammer.

 

While it is cooling, use a cookie in a die grinder to clean the bore in the suspension so the new bearing slips in.  Use a carbide bit to clean the wheel speed sensor bore out so the sensor slips in.

 

Installation is the reverse of removal, except without all the heating and beating.

Thanks Pete. I have all the required tools, question is do I have the required ambition? It's been a long time since I worked on anything that didn't have my name on the title or a number on the door.  Or belong to my Mom or daughter. 

Found that Moog parts are $255 each and  a couple of  videos.  I 'll relay info and let the owner decide. Thanks guy ! I knew You would have the knowledge.