I'm in the early planning stages of building a workshop. Local building codes limit me to a 20 x 30 x 15 foot tall structure. The primary use for this space will be for general wrenching and to store my Alfa and motorcycle. Depending on how my budget lasts I also want to install a 2 or 4 post lift (not sure what type to choose yet). Looking for any suggestions or lessons learned from folks who've built home workshops.
Thanks,
Paul
1.) You can't have too much electricity. That includes service, as well as outlets & lighting.
2.) Insulate, then insulate some more. This will also help keep the noise down for late-night wrenching sessions.
3.) Add a bathroom & wash basin if at all possible.
4,) Don't let it become a storage depot - keep only the tools/parts/etc. you need in the garage, in the garage. Keep part of your budget for a small shed, or if you're limited to one building, build a storeroom & keep everything else in it.
Go to www.garagejournal.com and be prepared to browse for days. Great site to give you ideas.
Is that a sole plate height of 15' or a total roof height of 15'. There's quite a difference and with a 15' peak roof height it really makes it tough to place a lift.
its really obvious, but I built 2' deep shelves along the walls up to the ceiling. in your case, keep a ladder handy(i use a step ladder).it really helps .
+1 on a sink and lots of power outlets. Also, run a 220 line in there for welders and compressors.
Use engineered beams for the ceiling so you can avoid having columns in the middle. It frees up an amazing amount of room and you avoid the temptation to stack things between cars.
Then sheetrock it, paint it white and add lots of florescent lights. It will be bright enough in there to do surgery at night.
carguy123 wrote: Is that a sole plate height of 15' or a total roof height of 15'. There's quite a difference and with a 15' peak roof height it really makes it tough to place a lift.
Good question - I call the planning department to get the specifics.
I hope that's 15' to the top plate, not the overall height of the building.
If not, you're gonna have a tough time putting a lift in there. Figure 12' ceiling height for the lift- that would only leave 3' for the pitch of the roof AND the roof assembly. Plus, you've gotta figure snow load (which needs more pitch). Tough.
It can be done with a cathedral ceiling (I've got one), but it's gonna cost more.
Does it have to be 20x30, or not to exceed 600 SF? A 15x40 is the same square footage, and 2 vehicles can be parked end to end.
How many bays?
What kind of cars do you work on? Do you need space for an SUV or a Yugo?
A motel-type hear/air unit is a good investment. Install all the air/power/water hook-ups you can afford. A painted/sealed concrete floor is also a good investment.
SVreX wrote: Does it have to be 20x30, or not to exceed 600 SF? A 15x40 is the same square footage, and 2 vehicles can be parked end to end. How many bays? What kind of cars do you work on? Do you need space for an SUV or a Yugo?
600 SF is the limitation I'm working with. I'm not sure if I want side by side or end to end parking. 2 bays for sure, as I need a space for my Alfa Spider, plus a "work" area for whatever project I'm working on. As the previous posts mention, I'll confirm that the 15 foot height is indeed the wall, and not the roof.
How about a pit instead of a lift?
If 15 feet is the maximum building height allowed, you could consider constructing it with a shallow sloped roof, but it would have to take Ottawa area snow loads. I believe that was 40 lb/sq.ft.back when I went to school there 35 years ago IIRC. Worth checking to see what the increased construction cost would be if you really want to put in a hoist.You could end up with a clear height of 13 feet , allowing for a foot of slope and a roof structure about a foot thick. Easier to accomplish on a 15x40 footprint.
try for 22x28. It's 16 sq over the limit, but you should be able to get a variance fom the building dept for it. That extra 2' in dept will be more useful than in width. Measure the width of your car(s) with one and two doors open. Unless they are very small, you'll not want that 15x40.
I agree that 15x40 is not the right footprint. I was just asking as a hypothetical about the square footage.
I would suggest L-shaped. Do one shallow bay on one side plenty big enough for an Alfa. Then make the other side deep enough for an SUV plus storage at the front. This will also allow you at some time in the future (when no one is looking) to close in the "L" to gain some storage.
Mine is 30x40, with 8x40 worth of storage along one edge. That leaves the actual shop area at 22x40. It's an excellent size, with space for workbenches along both walls. The end to end thing works very well for me, because I've always got one project car under way which doesn't move much.
I would avoid a pit. Way too many problems.
Shouldn't be too hard to convince the neighbors and zoning that the additional height is worthwhile- just tell them that's what it will take to avoid putting the lift in the yard. I'm sure they'd rather see a taller building then all your crap strewn about the yard. 
I don't think you can put a building up cheaper than the A arch metal buildings. That's what I have (30x46).
SVreX wrote: Shouldn't be too hard to convince the neighbors and zoning that the additional height is worthwhile- just tell them that's what it will take to avoid putting the lift in the yard. I'm sure they'd rather see a taller building then all your crap strewn about the yard.
Or just offer to put up a smaller barn-like structure to support your new pig farming venture.
A deck on top would be great for grilling - or just offsetting the loss of yard space.
ahhh just the idea of 600 sf gives me goosebumps! i'm stuck with 280!
+1 on what Pete G said.
+1 on garagejournal, although the signal:noise is a bit annoying at times... there are some serious hacks over there... completely ignore the electrical forum...
+1 on sheetrock and painting it white. You can add accents later if you want to warm it up a bit.
If you can budget it, insulate and PEX your slab. Even if you install the heater later. Epoxy floor is best done early (but after the concrete has cured) than later (after you've filled the shop with crap and spilled oil everywhere).
LOL this post hits close to home!
I am a contractor by profession. But for what ever reason, I avoided building a garage when I built my house, guess I just figured my wife would stuff it full of stuff. 
in 2001 I bought a Bugeye from Canada. and decided to build a storage shed for it. I called home to my wife while on the 20 hour trip home, and she said why dont you just build an effing garage! LMAO yup.. I called the Building inspector, and asked how big I could build it. answer was 750 sf ridge height not to exceed 15'. I said I really can only go 16.5' wide, because of wifes pool, how long can I make it? B I screams at me (we are friends) DO THE EFFING MATH THOMPSON lol Okay, so I did. I haven't regretted on thing I did out there. I built it looking like a barn, to maximize storage on the back half, and head room on the front. The entire back room is heated and insulated. I have MUCH power out there, a whole seperate fuse panel with 200 amps (good friend is an electrician) My Son, I, good friend, and my Father inlaw built the entire thing in 4 days over labor day in 2001. I do regret not having a toilet, but its minor. I also wish I would have put in a gas source from the house, I use LP for the heater. but both are livable
here are a few pics to give an idea
http://thompsoncarpentry.com/personalgallery/album26
Oh, one other thing, I thought about Drywall, but used osb on the walls instead, and still painted them white, holds up better than drywall, and gives you lots of places to hang your nifty pictures ;) if you were going to tape and finish, I think this way is cheaper. just my 2 cents
And use radiant barrier OSB for the high part of the wall and the ceiling as it reflects the light back soooooo well.
Okay, for the wood-frame impaired, what's "OSB?"
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