4L60 acting up

In reply to dropstep:

A "flush" usually refers to one of the added solvent variety, not a fluid exchange/pan drop.

Kenny_McCormic wrote: In reply to dropstep: A "flush" usually refers to one of the added solvent variety, not a fluid exchange/pan drop.

We use one. Valvolines 2 part kit. 16Qts of maxlife per flush.

I think most of the badmouthing transmission flushes get is from situations where the trans is worn the hell out, and somebody sells a fluid flush, and the transmission is still worn the hell out.

I've never had an issue, unless the pan was full of crap.

In reply to Streetwiseguy:

Pretty much, I've pan dropped the worst transmission ever before, the early non lockup TH200, pan only had a light dusting of the usual grey goop on the bottom, filled it up with maxlife, it worked better afterwards.

dropstep wrote:

chiodos wrote: All the above just dont have someone flush it or your only shooting your own foot off. Drop pan change filter replace lost fluid add cooler and pray. 4l60s arent known to be very strong anyways, kinda like why they have the moniker "4lE36 M3ty"

I still want to understand the logic behind dont flush it. This always bugs me as a guy who has done over 300 trans flushes in 8 years and has never seen it cause an issue. We use a fluid exchanger so the trans never sees more then its own front pump pressure and is never empty. Is this some old holdover logic? I flushed my wagon and 7 sets of rear tires later theres no issues. All of my personal vehicles including my wifes car are up to date on flushes. Most american car manufacturers still recomend a flush at 100k. Ive flushed cars on time and once flushed a buick with 240k miles on the original tar, err fluid. A flush wont hurt the transmission unless its already crap.

what good is a trans flush with the old filter still in place? a filter is like $6 for one of these, and if you don't change it you're making the pump suck through a coffee stirrer.

patgizz wrote:

dropstep wrote:

chiodos wrote: All the above just dont have someone flush it or your only shooting your own foot off. Drop pan change filter replace lost fluid add cooler and pray. 4l60s arent known to be very strong anyways, kinda like why they have the moniker "4lE36 M3ty"

I still want to understand the logic behind dont flush it. This always bugs me as a guy who has done over 300 trans flushes in 8 years and has never seen it cause an issue. We use a fluid exchanger so the trans never sees more then its own front pump pressure and is never empty. Is this some old holdover logic? I flushed my wagon and 7 sets of rear tires later theres no issues. All of my personal vehicles including my wifes car are up to date on flushes. Most american car manufacturers still recomend a flush at 100k. Ive flushed cars on time and once flushed a buick with 240k miles on the original tar, err fluid. A flush wont hurt the transmission unless its already crap.

what good is a trans flush with the old filter still in place? a filter is like $6 for one of these, and if you don't change it you're making the pump suck through a coffee stirrer.

I recomend both filter and flush. Id prefer my new filter not be gunked up with the leftover 4-6 qts of fluid that a pan drop doesnt remove. New filter is useless if your fluids still thin and or burnt.

SUCCESS!!!

So plug wires fixed the misfire and are we all ready for this? The transmission acting up was due to a malfunctioning TPS!!!!!!! Replaced it and this beast pulls like a champ. I knew something wonky was going on and that it wasn't "slipping" like so many had said. It was perfect until half throttle when things went haywire. And it was due to crappy info coming from the TPS. $20 part FTMFW!

Surprised I didn't think of that one. I've even had that actually happen to me on a 4T65E. Usually you'll get a code or the the cruise control will quit working, but sometimes it's just bad enough to really mess with the trans programming and make it drive all mushy.