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Brett_Murphy
Brett_Murphy GRM+ Memberand PowerDork
10/20/15 8:12 p.m.
Furious_E wrote: Only if they're old enough to still utilize a VG motor, but the Pathfinders went to the VQ sooner than the Xterra did.

2000 and later Pathfinders are right in the sweet spot. Like, seriously right there.

belteshazzar
belteshazzar PowerDork
10/20/15 8:45 p.m.

Now I love me some VQ powered nissan. But, The weird ass problem with VQ powered Pathfinders and QX4's is that the dual path intake manifold has six butterflies that redirect the air based on input from the ecu. The problem is that the screws holding the butterlies in place come loose and the engine eats them. Scores the cylinder walls, burns oil, etc.

NGTD
NGTD UltraDork
10/20/15 9:41 p.m.
Brett_Murphy wrote: Additional info/question: the later Explorers, the Trailblazer, etc. had independent rear suspension. I've never towed with anything other than a solid axle vehicle, and I wonder how much difference the IRS makes. Since rock crawling is not on the menu, articulation isn't as important.

The Explorer's with IRS eat their transmissions.

The Durango's of that era are fuel pigs. Get a Tahoe.

ultraclyde
ultraclyde UltraDork
10/21/15 7:15 a.m.

I have a 97 V8 explorer 2wd as a tow/adventure pig. It's a great truck. It's factory rated for 6800lbs towing since it has the optional tow pack (gears and trans cooler.) The trans is the 4R70W. I'll agree that the 01 is the last explorer I'd own.

But...I tow 3500 lbs of camper with it and it does pretty well. If I was going much above that I'd want a full weight distribution hitch and some other minor beefing up. They are not happy with much tongue weight AT ALL. If towing 5k on the interstate through the mountains is going to be a regular thing - I'd seriously consider a full size just for ease and comfort. The Ex might do it, but it would make me nervous the whole time.

Also, it's getting really hard to find a solid example that's not ragged to E36 M3 from those years. If you go that route, expect to buy cheap and fix a lot of miscellaneous comfort stuff.

Brokeback
Brokeback Reader
10/21/15 8:02 a.m.

I own a Gen II Montero, with the 3.5L SOHC (no silly butterfly valve failures like the DOHC) and it's got rear bags, stiffer rear springs, and (not helpful for towing) 33s. It does pretty good with my 2000 lb trailer on the highway for 600+ mile trips, but for towing right at it's weight limit of ~5000 lbs I would want something much beefier. Another vote for a Tahoe/Yukon - will handle towing much better, and probably get better MPG too (I've averaged 15mpg lifetime).

The_Jed
The_Jed UberDork
10/21/15 8:17 a.m.
NGTD wrote: If you want an Explorer stay in the 97-01 range and get the V8. That era was the most reliable and the V8/auto (sorry I can't remember the trans code)combo was much better than the V6/5R55E auto combo. The SOHC V6 requires pulling the motor to change the right side timing chain. I had a 98 V6/5R55E and it was the most reliable vehicle I have ever owned. I didn't have a problem with timing chains (replaced on a recall) or the trans issues (slip on the 2nd-3rd upshift). I owned it for 10 years. The 02-10 era ate transmissions like candy. I know a guy who went through 3 of them. We now have a 2012 Explorer but its a "fancy high-riding car", not a truck.
ultraclyde wrote: I have a 97 V8 explorer 2wd as a tow/adventure pig. It's a great truck. It's factory rated for 6800lbs towing since it has the optional tow pack (gears and trans cooler.) The trans is the 4R70W. I'll agree that the 01 is the last explorer I'd own. But...I tow 3500 lbs of camper with it and it does pretty well. If I was going much above that I'd want a full weight distribution hitch and some other minor beefing up. They are not happy with much tongue weight AT ALL. If towing 5k on the interstate through the mountains is going to be a regular thing - I'd seriously consider a full size just for ease and comfort. The Ex might do it, but it would make me nervous the whole time. Also, it's getting really hard to find a solid example that's not ragged to E36 M3 from those years. If you go that route, expect to buy cheap and fix a lot of miscellaneous comfort stuff.

I concur with the above posts. The only thing I didn't like about the V8 Exploders/Mountaineers is they were either full time AWD (instead of 4WD, so no low range, if you need that sort of thing) or 2WD.

Judging by the local craigslist examples they seem to run a long LONG time with minimal maintenance.

NMNA:

A couple of nice seeming examples:

http://quadcities.craigslist.org/cto/5248946172.html

http://bn.craigslist.org/cto/5267112291.html

Then there's this monstrosity, also NMNA:

http://peoria.craigslist.org/cto/5241600988.html

Brett_Murphy
Brett_Murphy GRM+ Memberand PowerDork
10/21/15 9:08 a.m.

I think the people saying "go bigger if you are towing" have the right idea. Research shows that the 2003 and later 4Runners with 4x4 and a V8 have a 7000 tow rating.

This one has my interest. It is a bit out of budget, but if I sell the Miata and Xterra it is doable.

http://www.cars.com/vehicledetail/detail/642573161/overview/

Vigo
Vigo PowerDork
10/21/15 9:44 a.m.

Ive towed with XJ Cherokee and 2g Montero and 2g and 3g Dakotas (aka longer Durango).

The XJ is terrible to tow with, and 5000 lbs is pushing it. Ratings are stupid and should not be trusted. It is not a good tow vehicle and it becomes obvious way before 5000 lbs.

The 2g Montero towed ok. The big downside I would say is all the stuff I would want to do to a Montero would make it tow worse.

The 2g Dakota towed like E36 M3 just because it had 100/0 brake balance and no abs so it would lock the front wheels at the first sign of brake application. It was flat dangerous if there was moisture on the ground. Other than that it was ok.

The 3g Dakota didn't seem to have the brake issue and towed fine. By extension I would say the Durango probably tows pretty ok.

Brokeback
Brokeback Reader
10/21/15 10:09 a.m.
Brett_Murphy wrote: I think the people saying "go bigger if you are towing" have the right idea. Research shows that the 2003 and later 4Runners with 4x4 and a V8 have a 7000 tow rating.

Of course now the other camp will come in and show us how they tow a fifth wheel with their Miata because that's how they do it in Europe...

The heated seat requirement might make it difficult to pick up something in your price range. Not sure if the Tahoe/Yukon ever came with heated seats, but I am also pretty unfamiliar with Chevys.

Edit: Apparently for 2000-2006 if you got the LT model it included heated seats. I learned something new today!

Brett_Murphy
Brett_Murphy GRM+ Memberand PowerDork
10/21/15 12:28 p.m.
Brokeback wrote: The heated seat requirement might make it difficult to pick up something in your price range.

My wife sat in a car with heated seats ONE TIME and they became a fairly scrict requirement after that, even though she had gone without them before that. She even uses them in the summer time.

mazdeuce
mazdeuce PowerDork
10/21/15 12:32 p.m.

The GMT800 Tahoe had heated seats. I've sat in them.

java230
java230 Reader
10/21/15 12:51 p.m.
mazdeuce wrote: Was the 4th gen 4-runner available with a manual? My wife has an FJ with the 4.0 and the six speed and it's one of my favorite things to drive. Give me that with cargo space and I'd be in love.

No manual ever in the 4th gen 4r... Its sad. The 05+ v6 got a 5 speed auto, the 03+ v6 only have a 4 speed. All V8's got the 5 speed.

I love my 4th gen, but Id get a v8 if i were to do it over. I like 2wd, but lift/tire/loaded with camping gear = v8 mileage wo/ the power. I average around 15.5-16 with a lot of traffic/city driving, but having my tent/brick on the roof doesn't help with aero.

As to sand driving, depending on the speeds, the TQ doesn't lock up in anything other than 3rd/OD when not in 4lo. If running in 2nd (like mine does on a lot of steep FS roads) the trans gets hot, in a hurry. Aftermarket trans cooler is helpful. The V8 w/ to pkg has an external from the radiator from the factory.

Limited's had heated seats. (but sports get bigger brakes, and the wiring is all in there, just need the seats and switches.)

Did I mention I love my 4th gen?

20150815_135135

Bobzilla
Bobzilla UltimaDork
10/21/15 1:45 p.m.

Two words for you: Ta-Hoe.

Seriously, father picked up a GMT800 truck with the 5.3 for $2500. Put $500 in misc maintenance items and has a nice driving 4wd truck for cheap. Hell, even had the intake and exhaust already done.

Brett_Murphy
Brett_Murphy GRM+ Memberand PowerDork
10/21/15 3:20 p.m.

If I could find a GMT800 Tahoe or Yukon for that price, I'd buy it. If it does wind up being a Tahoe, I'd prefer the double rear doors, though.

Brett_Murphy
Brett_Murphy GRM+ Memberand PowerDork
10/23/15 9:19 a.m.

I was doing a bit of research and I can't for the life of me figure out why the Trailblazer got an aluminium block 5.3 and the Tahoe, which could use a bit of a diet, got the iron block.

Furious_E
Furious_E GRM+ Memberand Reader
10/23/15 9:50 a.m.

In reply to Brett_Murphy:

Huh, that is kind of odd.

Trailblazers are decent though, aside from typical GM build quality. My buddy's mom has had an 05-ish one since new that I've spent considerable time in. The back seat is pretty roomy and it definitely has heated seats in front. The leather is kind of hard and crappy, though. Don't recall it ever having serious issues, aside from the time my friend backed it into/sideswiped an S10, catching the trucks bumper on the wheel well and ripping the door skin off

But that wasn't the truck's fault.

ebonyandivory
ebonyandivory UltraDork
10/23/15 9:52 a.m.

I bought a 2005 Yukon XL Denali with a 335hp 6.0 and a 7000lb tow rating for $3,500.

(It's got 4 heated seats)

NickD
NickD Reader
10/23/15 10:08 a.m.
Furious_E wrote: In reply to Brett_Murphy: Huh, that is kind of odd. Trailblazers are decent though, aside from typical GM build quality. My buddy's mom has had an 05-ish one since new that I've spent considerable time in. The back seat is pretty roomy and it definitely has heated seats in front. The leather is kind of hard and crappy, though. Don't recall it ever having serious issues, aside from the time my friend backed it into/sideswiped an S10, catching the trucks bumper on the wheel well and ripping the door skin off But that wasn't the truck's fault.

The Trailblazers had their fair share of issues. The I6 models were pretty gutless and were really thirsty, plus they crack exhaust manifolds and consume coil packs like it's their job. V8 models are better power-wise and are near equal fuel-consumption wise but much rarer. Also, either engine had the stupid axle-through-the oil-pan design, the driver door switches tend to melt or catch fire (recall about that though), fuel pumps and fuel level senders go bad or rot out and the front differentials tend to puke fluid from the pinion seal (Seen them do that at fairly low mileage, like 40K, on some customer vehicles)

Brett_Murphy
Brett_Murphy GRM+ Memberand PowerDork
10/23/15 11:04 a.m.
ebonyandivory wrote: I bought a 2005 Yukon XL Denali with a 335hp 6.0 and a 7000lb tow rating for $3,500. (It's got 4 heated seats)

I am going to have to expand my search for the Tahoe/Yukon outside of this area. Prices are just to high. How many miles and how ragged was it?

Edit: Oh, wait, one popped up.

http://raleigh.craigslist.org/cto/5274469511.html

I've been eyeballing this one, too.

http://raleigh.craigslist.org/ctd/5269119533.html

volvoclearinghouse
volvoclearinghouse SuperDork
10/23/15 11:17 a.m.

Funny how most of these "what SUV" threads end up pointing back around to a Suburban/Tahoe. Really, the Suburban ought to be the Miata of that question. Sure you can get something a little nicer, a little less thirsty, whatever...but the Suburban has been around for so long, with so little really changed, because it's dang hard to do it better.

Brett_Murphy
Brett_Murphy GRM+ Memberand PowerDork
10/23/15 11:40 a.m.

For a General Purpose SUV, yes, and if you go a size lower it is an XJ Cherokee. The approach and departure angles on the Tahoe are not that great, but I don't think too many of them go rock crawling.

kevlarcorolla
kevlarcorolla HalfDork
10/23/15 4:06 p.m.

I wouldn't buy a jeep anything general purpose or otherwise but I guess that's just me wanting to get where I want to go AND back.

Seriously hunt down even a higher mileage 4runner if that's what it takes to be close to your budget,it'll still last longer than the others and be worth something when you want to move on.

At the time I was deciding if I should buy a runner or a Tahoe of the same vintage my BIL was dealing with his GMT800 truck and issues.At the same time my coworker with the same early 2000 gm truck literally wouldn't leave home without his scan tool and was throwing new parts at it every week based on the new codes that popped up.

That ordeal I think is still going on,I'm driving my runner now for nearly 2 yrs....my main family hauler had a last minute A/C problem just before a major summer road trip vacation.Checked fluids and tire pressures,loaded the luggage and 4000 miles later pulled back into my driveway needing nothing more than an oil change.

I don't regret my decision for a second.

Vigo
Vigo PowerDork
10/23/15 6:41 p.m.
I wouldn't buy a jeep anything general purpose or otherwise but I guess that's just me wanting to get where I want to go AND back.

I once owned an XJ with 358k miles on the original auto trans. Try that on a 4l60. Most of them have been rebuilt 2-3 times by the time the truck hits 300k. Which, if you think about it, is 'only' $4000-6000 difference in costs.

kevlarcorolla
kevlarcorolla HalfDork
10/23/15 7:58 p.m.

That's pretty good for a jeep

Theres a guy on the 4runner forum with 588k,has replaced front wheel bearings,a cv boot,alternator,02 sensor and I think that's it other than consumables.

The rest of the guys reporting are in the 200 to 300 range with a couple nearing 400k,all with similar reports.Makes me feel confident I have a fighting chance of getting a long long life out of it.

If only the aftermarket made some stuff for the 4.7 dammit.

volvoclearinghouse
volvoclearinghouse SuperDork
10/25/15 6:22 p.m.

One thing I've never understood is how the 4L60E gets a bad rap, but the 700R4 is widely considered bulletproof. I always thought they were essentially the same mechanically. Do the electric controls on the 4L60E somehow make it less reliable?

700R4 in our '91 Burb, 180k miles and AFAIK it's never been rebuilt. I had a shift kit installed, changed the fluid, and put in a big cooler when we got it, and it shifts nice and firm, no issues. I tow with it in D, never OD, but otherwise don't really baby it.

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