Might be purchasing a 72 510 4 door in the next couple of weeks and was wondering what I should look for. Could use some help please.
Might be purchasing a 72 510 4 door in the next couple of weeks and was wondering what I should look for. Could use some help please.
Straightforward simple cars. If it starts, runs, steers and stops you are in pretty good shape, I'd say.
Check for rust, of course; the 'dogleg' at the front of the rear fender where it meets the rocker panel is a favorite place for rot to start. If it looks good there, use a magnet to check for fiberglass, Bondo, etc.
I have never seen it, but I have heard that it is possible for the frame to crack at the steering box mounting. I did see this on an old Celica once, though. Have one person turn the steering while the other watches the box to see if it moves. If it does, investigate carefully.
The 510 Realm has a shortish buyer's guide with useful info:
As multiple people said in that thread: clean, straight bumpers are getting to be worth their weight in gold. If the car in question does not come with them, do not assume someone will sell you a good set cheap. I've also seen claims that trim is expensive, but single pieces can generally be purchased cheap, but it can be a bit of a hunt to track them down.
Front valences are NLA, and if the car has ever rear ended something, the area around the bumper mounts gets wrinkled. Depending on the seller and day of the week, I've seen NOS valences go for anywhere from $225 to $550.
Cracked dashes are very common, caps are $80.
If the car has had a later model 5 speed transmission swapped in and is difficult to shift, chances are good that the transmission is fine. There are 2 plastic bushings at the pivot point in the shifter lever- they fail over time. Replacements can be purchased at the dealership, but most people opt to replace them with bronze bushings.
Oh, beyond the usual hacked stereo wiring, check the fuses- It's common to have a bad connection in the horn contact- when you want horn sound, you have none. Make a turn in a parking lot, and the horn suddenly and embarassingly works. Should this happen, you cannot pull the fuse marked "Horn", as the brake lights are on the same circuit. I've had 2 510's that were this way when purchased.
If there is a gassy smell in the trunk, check the molded rubber section of the filler neck. They are unique to 510's, and again, it takes patience to find a good deal on one- think I paid about $55 for the last one I bought.
As with any cheapish cars, check all over for signs of kludgery- I bought a '69 with a 5 speed swap that had been "professionally" done. It wasn't until few weeks after the purchase that I noticed that the transmission crossmember was held in place with only 2 of 4 bolts (longer transmission), and that the flexplate was from an automatic, leaving the flywheel exposed at the bottom.
Finally, if purchasing parts from a brick and mortar store, many 510 engine parts are listed as NLA, or must be shipped from across the country. Assuming this car has a 4 cyl. L Series, tell them you need engine parts for a 19XX Datsun pickup- the prices get lower, and the parts are magically in stock.
I would imagine body parts/rust would be the most important. I remember seeing a pretty much perfect shape (but faded) 510 in pick and pull, and within a couple days, it was completely stripped, someone even cut the roof and rear fenders off and bought them. It doesnt have anything to do with buying one, but someone near where i live has an all original one with the original paint, but it is so covered in dents i dont think there is a good panel on the whole car.
Woody wrote: That was only one question. What happened to the other 509?
I'm pretty sure if I buy it, the rest will come. A ghostly voice told me to say that.
Jensenman, Thanks for the tip about the steering box, will keep that in mind. I've looked at the photos the seller has posted and body cancer is definitely a problem in the rockers and the rear quarter panels.
Dimeadozen, Thanks for the info and the link. Will check it out shortly.
If I do end up buying this car, looks like I'll have an excuse to visit the local pickandpulls.
From CARS
I know nothing about 510s. That said, I did have a pair of 610s (and still have a bunch of parts, actually) and rust was their single biggest enemy besides the wonky IRS. I'd grab everything that should be solidly mounted, like wheels, and give them a hard shake, just to make sure things are still solid underneath.
I forgot to add another useful link on my last post:
Click "Technical Department" from the menu on the left side of the homepage- lots of useful writeups about common modifications, the Electrical section is particularly useful.
Keep in mind when perusing 510 information online that 510 people are very grassroots- more than one author claims a modification is "bolt on" and means "There isn't MUCH welding, cutting and machining required..."
@ oldopelguy-
Many 510 owners brag about the wonky IRS, and look down on the 510 wagon owners with their "primitive" live rear axle. Of course, when it is time to lower their car and keep proper suspension geometry, without reworking EVERYTHING, wagon owners get the last laugh.
@ the OP-
One more thing to check for- if the car you are looking at is/ever was lowered significantly, make sure that the rear half shafts are installed correctly. When the cars are excessively slammed, the half shafts sit at a ridiculous angle, and rub the body. Because the flanges are identical at each end, many times they get flipped 180 degrees to gain a little extra clearance with the body. This causes them to fail eventually- used ones are easy to come by, but shipping won't be cheap.
alex wrote: Simple. Reliable. Get it?
I do now, thanks.
Dimeadozen, Thanks for the sites. Found a new way to lose several hours at work.
lewbud wrote:alex wrote: Simple. Reliable. Get it?I do now, thanks. Dimeadozen, Thanks for the sites. Found a new way to lose several hours at work.
ratsun.net is a site I lose a lot of time on.
Check out Project Whitebird on the 510 Realm if you haven't already.
Long story short, the guy has a Japanese market 1300 4 Dr., and is modifying it to increase performance/comfort, but keep everything looking fairly original.
He points out that the pattern on leatherette E30 sport seats matches the stock Datsun rear seat very well. He also swapped in an SR20, and made a custom manifold that has it breathing through Roadster sidedraft carbs.
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