90s GMC/Chevy Trucks?

I like this era. TBI is super simple and reliable. Vortec has the intake leaks that have been mentioned. I've seen a few with TPI added.

I've had good luck with these trucks. I've owned two myself, first one was an '89 regular cab short bed C1500 with the 4.3/5spd manual that was a great truck. Current winter beater/work truck is a '94 K1500 5.7/4L60E. My parents have owned an '89 C2500 Extended cab, two '97 Extended Cab short bed trucks (one 5.7, one 5.0), and a '95 Suburban (similar platform). They're all good trucks that can be made better with a few simple improvements like a rear anti sway bar.

My '94 has been used extensively for dump runs, hauling gravel, dirt, pallets of ceramic tile, etc. I know that on at least two occasions I have had over a ton of weight in the bed in the bed and it handled it just fine (with appropriate driving). Bear in mind this truck has the lighter rear leaf sping packs, but does have a Hotchkis TVS system (upgraded front sway and rear sway bar - stock has no rear sway). I also had a transmission cooler installed after I bought it as well.

Brakes can be made to work pretty well, you just need to keep the rears adjusted. Easiest way is to find a steep hill (preferably in an empty parking lot), back down it at 20 MPH, and then slam on the brakes. Do this two or three times and the rears will be properly adjusted and your pedal will be where it should be, assuming your adjusters aren't frozen.

Rust issues are common, rust over the rear wheelwells is very common on the earlier models, and rust on the rear cab corners is common on most of the models, but the newer ones aren't as bad. Interiors were redesigned in '95 and that model also got four wheel ABS, earlier models had rear-only ABS which is of questionable ability. '96 brought the Vortec motor, which had more power and torque, albeit higher up in the rev ranges. Despite the Vortec having intake manifold gaskets, the TBIs are not much better, at least according to my experience. Between my parents and myself, 75% of the TBIs we've owned have required a new intake manifold gasket.

Two good sources of information are:

http://www.fullsizechevy.com/forums <- good general info http://www.pacificp.com/forum/viewforum.php?f=1&sid=57b825a6395a69c9fce4abfc3b473423 <-outstanding technical info

dj06482 wrote: Brakes can be made to work pretty well, you just need to keep the rears adjusted. Easiest way is to find a steep hill (preferably in an empty parking lot), back down it at 20 MPH, and then slam on the brakes. Do this two or three times and the rears will be properly adjusted and your pedal will be where it should be, assuming your adjusters aren't frozen.

this works brilliantly.

^ Or just pull the drums, clean them and adjust them properly.... that works too.

not any more effectively.

Bobzilla wrote: ^ Or just pull the drums, clean them and adjust them properly.... that works too.

I tried that, and the adjustment held for about a week. Honestly, the back down a hill at 20 MPH and jam on the brakes method is much easier, and the results in my case have been just as good as a true adjustment (YMMV).

I think that's why these trucks have such a reputation for having poor brakes is very few people have ever driven one where the rears are properly adjusted. And, it's next to impossible to keep them properly adjusted because they go out of adjustment so frequently.

I always ran PF pads on teh fronts and kept the rears adjusted and was always pleased with braking performance. Never once had an issue with it.

Bobzilla wrote: I always ran PF pads on teh fronts and kept the rears adjusted and was always pleased with braking performance. Never once had an issue with it.

I agree, I've been very pleased with the braking performance of my K1500 (provided they're adjusted). I have 265s on the truck (one of the stock sizes for a 4X4), and there's still plenty of braking power to lock up the front wheels. After you've done that, you're limited strictly by your tires and the traction that they provide...

I think a lot of people just say the brakes on the trucks are bad because they're drums in the back. Interestingly enough, though, GM went to 4 wheel discs and then back to rear drums when they redesigned the trucks. I know GM had problems with the rear rotors corroding into nothing...

You guys aren't going to want to hear this, but my '95 Chevrolet 1500 had well over 500 lbs./ft. and 250 hp. It was a factory 6.5 turbo diesel/4L80E trans. The ONLY weak link that I found was the PMD went bad twice before I decided to remount on the inner fender with a huge heat sink. The truck was chipped, had 4" exhaust, the wastegate was welded shut (this produces about 16 psi), marine injectors, and a guage pack. I got 19 MPG PULLING MY CAR TRAILER with A CAR ON IT. Around town if I wasn't into it too hard it would deliver around 23 MPG. Many don't believe me when I tell them this, but Bamalama and Matt Lee can attest. The 6.5's are dirt cheap and can be had in a half-ton. I suggest a '97 and up because of the cooling upgrades. Look for ones that "stall" or "need an injector pump". Chances are they only need a PMD, of which you can buy a used one on eBay for about $100/delivered. Just my $.02. BTW, I love the new small blocks, but still have a place in my heart for the Vortec 5.7's. IMHO, the 5.7 Vortec with the Z71 package is one of the best light trucks ever made.

-Les

I loved the 6.5TD's. I remember putting opne sideways (G80) on a test drive. Fantastic powertrain combo.