99 Miata track beater engine options

I've got a 99 Miata sport package that has become a track-day beater.  It has ~155k miles, about 30 track days, and it's getting tired.  Oil consumption is getting out of hand, so I expect the engine is about done.

Engine itself is stock.  Car has a Raceland header and MBS exhaust, plus a Flyin' Miata suspension.  I've recently replaced the transmission after a seal failure led to lunching that, and did a clutch at the same time.  Rest of the car is rather worn out. I'd like to keep it around to just run track days with my dad, about 5-7/year.  Of course a little more power would be nice but the main thing I need is a cheap, reliable option to get back in the action.

I'd consider rebuilding the current motor as I've never done one before, but the reality is I'm already buried with projects and don't see that getting done.  So if I'm looking for a junkyard replacement, any particular year or features I should look for?  Combination of parts to put together from my engine or others?  Sources on where to find any of it?

Thanks

Matt

I'd rebuild  the current motor. I'll bet a quick honing, rings, bearings and seals would put it good as new. They're tough little engines.

In reply to MattGent :

Why not read the articles here about engines choices/ applications?  That seems to be the most popular car. 

Myself I'd figure out a cheap way to get a blower/ turbo on it.  Wait!  They just did last month!!  Read about the magazines yellow Miata. 

+1 for rebuilding the current engine. Leave the car with an independent mechanic to do it, it'll still give you more years of service per dollar than any other option.

 in my Miata streetcar I have often wished for another hundred horsepower. However, it doesn't sound like you have the same wish. I would think I competent local machine shop could freshen the motor for about 1500 bucks. that would probably be the most economical and reliable option you could go for. should only take about 3 hours to pull the motor and 3 hours to reinstall it.

You already have a NB1 so just rebuild it and then you will KNOW it will last another 150k and wont be some question mark from a junk yard

Find a machine shop to rebuild the short block.  If you want more power, the Spec Miata guys have a certain reman head they use.  That car is worth enough that a decently rebuilt motor will make it a good track car for years to come.  

Easy option for a junkyard engine is a 1999-00. That's what you have, it'll drop straight in. Also the engine with the shortest production run, the highest demand and the highest mortality rate so it's gonna cost a few bucks.

The 2001-05 has a bit more compression but you'll have to do something to control the VVT, so more effort. Unless you swap heads, but that's assuming 1) you want to do the work and 2) your current head is refreshed at the same time.

1996-97 is also an option - again, if you swap heads. You can install it with the 1996-97 head if you want but that's a downgrade. You can also use a 1994-95 but you'll have to swap over the crank trigger wheel.

A few hundred more horsepower would be great, but a turbo or supercharged engine does not come to mind for me for a cheap, reliable track car.  I would love to rebuild mine but I have two boat restorations and a sidecar to finish, that would put me out of track days for at least a year.

On a quick search junkyard engines are more expensive than I would have thought...around $1200 for 130k+ miles, and $1500-2k for the occasional low mileage one.  I picked up a 45k mi transmission for $350 about two years ago, guessed on under $1k for an under 100k engine.

Thanks Keith - that's what I was looking for.  I wasn't sure whether the VVT upgrade would be worthwhile, or what was required on the controls side.  ECU + wiring harness?

A full ECU would do the trick, and there's a standalone VVT controller from the Megasquirt family I think. No personal experience with the latter. For what you're describing, I'd hit the easy button and just get another 1999-00.

The transmissions are found in a wider range of years and don't wear out as quickly, so their street value is low. Also, remember that you're looking at the more desirable engines. If you wanted a 1.6, they're pretty much free.

I've found a 2002 from an automatic with low miles and well cheaper than a rebuild.  Are the ECUs specific to the transmission?  Or can an auto ECU from the engine be used with my manual trans?  I'm fine with losing the clutch or neutral lock-out.

I would have guessed that the VVT controls needed a specific harness, though that could come with the engine.  What about the header compatibility?

Kia Sportage engine. It's heavier but uses the same engine mounts. They have HLAs but the JDM engines used the same cams with solid lifters for a peppy 2.0.

Any feedback on the Auto ECU?  This engine is cheap and low miles so I think I'm going forward with it.

Alternatively I could just use the shortblock from the 2002 and have my head rebuilt as Keith suggeted.

Regarding the Kia, I guess you refer to this http://www.solomiata.com/FE3.html minus the stroker mod.  That is too much project for too little gain for me.

The 2002 ECU has an immobilizer that's going to make your life a hassle. Better to go with your current ECU and add a standalone VVT controller.

The FE3 is not a simple swap by any means. The only reason IMO to use it would be as a cheap boosted option for 300whp as the engines are plentiful at <$500 and seem to run fine with that amount of power. I'd definitely stick with a B engine in your case.

Since f2t uses the same mounts as fe3, and you say fe3 is the same mounts as b....f2t should be the answer. The answer for the answer. Woah. 

If you use a VVT engine ('01-05), it's a bolt in.  I just finished putting an '03 engine in the '99 I bought with a seized engine.  The only wiring required is wiring the '99 coil wires to the later style coils, which is easily accomplished with pigtails from Ballenger Motorsports for the later style coils.  Bonus:  '01 up coils are considered more reliable.  You can use the '99 coils and plug wires, but you have to shave down the boots, or ream the valve cover, as the VVT has smaller holes. 

The only other change is unwrapping enough of the harness to move the cam position wires to the rear of the valve cover.  '99 up all use the same sensor, just the location is different.  There is enough wire in the harness to move it and re-wrap the harness, no cutting required.

You can run the VVT engine with the VVT inactive (not hooked up).  You will just have the intake cam fully retarded, which will cost a bit of midrange torque.  Not a huge issue on a track rat.  Easy solution to control it is the DiY (Megasquirt) VVT controller.  It does make a big difference in midrange (I have a VVT engine in my NA as well, on MS3 with the VVT active).

It's also a good idea to swap the intake manifold from the '99 onto the '01+ engine.  The VICS manifold on the '99-00 makes better power than the VTCS manifold on the '01-05. 

I paid $550 for the VVT engine in my '99... it had ~130k miles, but good compression numbers and new timing belt and water pump.

No difference in header, except for the EGR.  IIRC, '99-00 use a male fitting on header, '01+ uses a female.  You can just swap the EGR pipe if necessary.  Works on both intake manifolds.

Instead of swapping the EGR pipe, see if you can get the exhaust manifold off the 2001-05 engine as part of the deal. Nicer piece than the 1999-00. I'm PRETTY sure the lower section is the same.

This car has a Raceland header, which will have to keep the existing EGR pipe. But there's some info for anyone searching in the future.

I like midrange even in a track car, so I'd get the VVT working.

Keith Tanner said:

Instead of swapping the EGR pipe, see if you can get the exhaust manifold off the 2001-05 engine as part of the deal. Nicer piece than the 1999-00. I'm PRETTY sure the lower section is the same.

Thanks, Keith... forgot about that.

Mid pipe (manifold to cat) is the same... IIRC Mazda calls it a "down pipe".

The '01 up stock exhaust manifold is definitely better, and may even be superior to the Raceland header the OP already has.

Quite possibly

F blocks do NOT have the same mounts as the B blocks. It requires adapter plates, or new block mounts etc.