Volvo that cranks but won't start, my first guess is always the crank position sensor. Where the wire meets the sensor (at the top of the bellhousing) they tend to corrode/fray.
Does the fuel pump prime when the key is cycled? If not, check the fuel pump relay.
I had a problem with my 945T where it would quit running on the highway and then refuse to start for about 15 minutes. I first assumed the crank position sensor and replaced that. Lo and behold, it did it again. This time I replaced the ignition module transistor thingie and voila! Problem fixed. Gotta love those intermittent problems. At least yours should be easy, since it's permanent! 
Once I got that straight, I've got to say that my Volvo turbo wagon was great fun. I miss that car. Best of luck with yours!
Fuel pump cycles. Haven't tested the pressure yet. I wouldn't be surprised if it's as simple as a really gummed up filter.
The reason I'd buy the parts and return is so I could just drive the car home without having to tow it. I don't have a trailer nor a dolly, so I have to rent one. I'll probably go Friday to see if I can get it running, and come back Saturday if I can't get it going.
Anyone in Central Florida up for helping me get it home? Fuel compensation and dinner on me. I'd rather pay someone for fuel and a good meal than give U-Haul more of my money.
VanillaSky wrote: Fuel pump cycles.
There are two. One in the tank, one under the car. Check them both.
That could explain why it will run for a few minutes after just a couple of sprays in the intake.
Which one is more common to fail? Also, is there a surge tank feeding the second pump?
The fuel tank one seems to die more often. No surge tank on the second, it's just inline.
The fuel pump relay won't close unless the hall effect sensor sends signals to it. How are you getting the fuel pump to cycle as you call it?
There are several known ignition and subsequent fuel gremlins that are known. The amplifier (those round firecracker like things on the fender). The wire itself from the hall effect sensor, right where it comes out. Fuel pump relay. In tank fuel pump itself (though often times it will run without this pump).
What hall effect sensor? It should be LH2.4 and have a VR sensor that reads 60-2 flywheel.
The fuel pump should prime when the key is turned to the on position.
Well, the couple times I heard it, I wasn't sure if the key was being cycled on and off or not. I was by the passenger rear of the car and heard an electric pump. Sounded just like my Honda's fuel pump priming the system.
I'm starting to get cold feet about the car, but I guess it's because it's a car I'm not familiar with. It's still a $500 car that needs a little work, and I think it will be a perfect beater once we get it running. It can't be any harder to work on than the 3rd gen Camaro my wife had when we met.
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