So, many of you all know im shiny happy person deep in rebuilding the challenge miata from a bare shell up. Its the curviest car ive ever done bodywork to, and im trying my darnedest to make it flawless.
Which brings me to blocking it.
Im about halfway through the first round of filler covered in a heavy two coats of high build, and im using 320 grit on a 12 inch durablok and a hard 3x5 foam pad.
Im doing my best to get everything with the durablock, but theres more curve that it will flex in many areas, and the sharp compound roll from horizontal to vertical portions is a bear as well. Im finding myself grabbing the little foam thing to get many of these areas, which in my mind will lead to a wavy surface when the clear and buffing is applied.
Whats the technique/feel/trick/tool/wisdom im missing here?
Picture, because we all like pictures.
I know you go opposite what you think. I don't know how to express what I mean, but basically you sand the curved parts with the sander always tangential to the curve.
NOHOME
MegaDork
10/16/24 7:55 p.m.
I love the Durablock collection and do 80% of all sanding with them, but have a box full of weird shaped foam toys. Yeah I know what image that conjures!
Pool noodles come in handy. Pipe insulation with rubber hoses of various durometers in the middle can be handy. I use the dish-washing sponge pads with the scotch-brite on one for close quarters like the nose of the P1800 or other close curvy areas; I dont use the scotch-brite surface to sand, I put the sandpaer over it so it is just a soft sanding block. Golden rule is "no fingers on the back of the sandpaper". I have been known ot roll up a scotchbrite pad into a cylinder and then wrap sandpaer around that.
The other unfortunate secret to a perfect surface is to not try and stretch the life of the sandpaper. Dull paper makes low frequency waves. You can feel when sandpaper stops biting and then it is time to grab another piece.
This game can, and will, drive you nuts.
