Air Hoses and Painting.

So when I sprayed the primer the first time on the IH I had a brand new air hose I used after my filter. 

Now I have been sanding, and the sanders like the bigger airline. I am running a water/oil separator, but its an old HF one. I am pardonably getting some moisture in the hose..... So Did I screw myself for painting with it in the future?

My compressor and hose are probably more polluted than a politicians morals and I just slapped a filter at the gun for doing the primer work. But it was also one of the reasons that I did not shoot the color. 

In reply to NOHOME :

Ok thanks! I don't have a at the gun filter, I ran a desiccant filter before this hose last time. 

I've got a 20' copper water filter installed before my cheapo HF oil / water / desiccant filter.  I've been using that for primer, but plan to add a Devilbiss desiccant snake for the BC / CC on the TR6 project.  I'm hoping that will take care of any residual moisture.  It just didn't make sense for me to purchase a proper dryer for a single paint job.

In reply to wake74 :

Forgot all about those snakes! 

I'm in the same boat, one paint job doesn't make sense to invest in an expensive dryer. 

I'm debating renting a booth for the color and clear. 

I've got big fancy filters and still can get moisture so I also use the ball type disposable filter at the gun for painting.

In reply to NOT A TA :

Just the little red ones? 

Might have mentioned this before...but it helped me.

When setting up the gun. Open the air flow valve all the way if the gun has one.

Have a pressure gauge/regulator  at the gun and open it all the way

Now go to the tank regulator and with the trigger pulled, adjust the pressure at the tank until the pressure at the gun is what you want it to be.

Now take the pressure gauge/regulator off the gun cause you don't need anymore  it and it is a PITA to work with.

Tape some masking paper to the wall and adjust your spray pattern. I do a rough adjust with just gunwash and then paint product.

Good way to practice and map out your spray pattern is to load the gun with wax and grease remover and spray the car. You need to do it anyway and it will give you some trigger time to get a feel for gun distance, overlap and hose management. Find a helper or three to mop up behind you and do the real degrease work!

In reply to NOHOME :

Oh I like the spray degreaser trick! That is a great idea. (another 5gallon pail purchase..... )

I just got a new  (used) gun. I just used a HF special for the epoxy. I will have to play with it as it has way more adjustments/settings. And I dont have a pressure reg for the gun. I did find last time that I needed to keep the air flowing, as I had so much hose it would expand and the pressure would spike when I re-pulled the trigger. Got good at the air/paint stoppage point on the gun.

java230 said:

In reply to NOT A TA :

Just the little red ones? 

Like the ones on the HF guns I use for primer in pic below. Also use them frequently on the high quality guns painting.

NOHOMEs pressure setting routine works well for beginners on big compressors with adequate storage. With small compressors that can't keep up the pressure may rise and drop as the pressure in the tank changes even with a regulator at the tank because the compressor can't maintain what the regulator is set at. 

  Using a regulator only at the tank limits the ability to reduce volume, pressure etc. for certain areas where the "full blast" is too much. Sometimes there's small areas with tight curves like grill openings, headlight openings etc. where the ability to dial back the settings to do an edge and then quickly open up to cover the large surrounding area before the edge starts to flash off works out well. I usually keep a regulator at the gun unless I'll be in tight areas like working in interiors painting roll cage, dashboards, or whatever.

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Subscribing for interest.  I'm itching to disassemble and paint the motorcycle soon.  I have a HF gun set (not the greatest) and a good wall-mount IR water separator/filter I picked up at a yard sale.

I planned on just getting a good new hose to dedicate to "cleaner" jobs since they're not that expensive and my hoses all have 20 years of junk in them.

For painting, what are your thoughts on the coiled hose vs straight?  About the only things I've painted were little things and once I did the roof of a Tercel, and I kept dragging my straight rubber hose across my fresh paint.  Does a coiled hose help?

In reply to Curtis73 (Forum Supporter) :

I don't remember what YouTube channel it was, but he made a good tip about looping the hose over your shoulder and holding it with your non gun hand. That seemed to work pretty well for me with a straight hose.

Take a little bit of practice to feed it kind of in and out as your hand moves forward and backwards. 

Curtis73 (Forum Supporter) said:

Subscribing for interest.  I'm itching to disassemble and paint the motorcycle soon.  I have a HF gun set (not the greatest) and a good wall-mount IR water separator/filter I picked up at a yard sale.

I planned on just getting a good new hose to dedicate to "cleaner" jobs since they're not that expensive and my hoses all have 20 years of junk in them.

For painting, what are your thoughts on the coiled hose vs straight?  About the only things I've painted were little things and once I did the roof of a Tercel, and I kept dragging my straight rubber hose across my fresh paint.  Does a coiled hose help?

Coiled air lines suck for painting IMO. Working at a bench porting heads and things like that they can be handy.

Thought I'd look for pics painting holding hose in my old stuff you guys have probably never seen pics of.  So, 35 year younger me painting a '71 Valiant with a 3/4 HP 3 gallon compressor. Where there's a will there's a way!! After wet sand and buff it came out great. Note hose around arm then behind neck so it's always away from the vehicle. Control hose with left hand as seen in bottom pic with a 25 year younger me. I painted outside a lot in my younger years. Patiently waiting for the right conditions is key to not getting a bunch of crap in the paint. Now I use my 2 car garage as a cross draft booth.

Wrapping the hose is particularly important when on a ladder painting the roof of something like the van below. Note stepladder in background. And yes, that's snow in the van pic.

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In reply to NOT A TA :

Bitchin! 

You have a spare panel you can use as practice? Do prep the same as the car, and then practice on it so you can see what the final result will be. Helped me a ton. Especially when it was time to cut and buff. Having a panel that you can burn through the clearcoat on purpose makes it so much easier not too on accident. Jcamper

In reply to Jcamper :

Great idea! I do have a spare fender.