Alignment on the Cheap?

Okay, I need to redo the alignment on the Miata. Looking at my tires after an aggressive auto-x has made it clear that I need to dial in more -camber. I have more time than money right now, so I'd like to do this myself.

I figure toe can be checked using the "string method". But what about Camber? I'm looking for a cheap way to check that.

I'm thinking maybe getting a simple angle gauge from a hardware store (either using a plumb-bob or bubble level), and probably placing that against the brake rotor to help. Any suggestions?

Miata Specific: this is for a Miata. I'm also planning to change my ride height at the same time. Will changing the ride height and camber also likely lead to toe changes? I don't know if the suspension set up has dynamic toe, or just camber.

Thanks in advance.

wasn't there just an article covering this...?

Raze wrote: wasn't there just an article covering this...?

Not really. The latest magazine had them doing trackside adjustments to their alignment, but they were using a nice digital gauge costing more than I can really afford right now.

I'm also considering an inexpensive but real gauge like one of these:

http://www.stangsuspension.com/store/comersus_viewitem.asp?idproduct=993

http://www.speedwaymotors.com/displaygroup.aspx?DisplayID=2699&map=web&sc=WGB&utm_source=GoogleBase&utm_medium=feed&utm_campaign=GoogleBase

How about this gauge? http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showpost.php?p=25452294&postcount=23

http://www.tomhoppe.com/index.php/2009/02/cheap-digital-camber-gauge/

http://www.c-speedracing.com/howto/alignment/alignment.php

I don't think toe changes as you lower the car but I think caster might. I'm just filling in space until one of the Miata gurus shows up

You always want to adjust toe last, it's affected by the camber and ride-height changes.

I use a big carpenter's square on the floor (which I've checked to be level) I then measure the distance from the top of the rim and the bottom of the rim and with a little trig you can find the angle. It's a little more work, but it's cheap.

I''m not sure if ride height changes toe.

moxnix wrote: How about this gauge? http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showpost.php?p=25452294&postcount=23 http://www.tomhoppe.com/index.php/2009/02/cheap-digital-camber-gauge/

Interesting. I like. I found this guy though that's essentially the same price, and someone else already did the work making it:

http://www.racerpartswholesale.com/product/1934/Caster_Camber_Gauges

Salanis wrote: Interesting. I like. I found this guy though that's essentially the same price, and someone else already did the work making it: http://www.racerpartswholesale.com/product/1934/Caster_Camber_Gauges

I have that guage, it works OK but I really wish it was digital.

Salanis wrote:

moxnix wrote: How about this gauge? http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showpost.php?p=25452294&postcount=23 http://www.tomhoppe.com/index.php/2009/02/cheap-digital-camber-gauge/

Interesting. I like. I found this guy though that's essentially the same price, and someone else already did the work making it: http://www.racerpartswholesale.com/product/1934/Caster_Camber_Gauges

That is a bubble gauge. You can have the homemade digital gauge for just a little more.

moxnix wrote: That is a bubble gauge. You can have the homemade digital gauge for just a little more.

I understand. Do you prefer the digital gauge? I'm sure it's a bit faster. But do you find it to be more accurate?

Edit: Oh! I get it! Since you level it out on the floor, you can get a more accurate alignment on a surface that's fairly flat, but may not be perfectly level.

Hey Salanis, you have an iphone? There's a free digital level app. Just figure out how to mount it up to your bracket.

Tim Baxter wrote: Hey Salanis, you have an iphone? There's a free digital level app. Just figure out how to mount it up to your bracket.

Oooh... I don't... but my Dad does, and he'd probably be helping me (since he has a big flat level hangar floor). Thanks for the tip!

Sure. It's called iHandy level. Works as a bubble level or a regular level, and can be calibrated.

SPS/Solotime offers a 10% discount if you're an SCCA member and they have 3-4 home alignment gauges starting at $89.

We bought one today

That iphone level might actually be more accurate than the typical bubble gauge, since you can calibrate it to the floor the car is sitting on.

Salanis wrote:

moxnix wrote: That is a bubble gauge. You can have the homemade digital gauge for just a little more.

I understand. Do you prefer the digital gauge? I'm sure it's a bit faster. But do you find it to be more accurate?

Yes I do prefer Digital. I think the accuracy is about the same if you setup both well but I find the digital is easier to read and a lot easier to use on non level ground (put in front of tire, press zero, measure.)

Heres a way to save about $15 making a camber gauge. if you have open style wheels you could just slap this puppy to the brake rotor and go to town.

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=95998

Salanis wrote: Okay, I need to redo the alignment on the Miata. Looking at my tires after an aggressive auto-x has made it clear that I need to dial in more -camber. I have more time than money right now, so I'd like to do this myself. I figure toe can be checked using the "string method". But what about Camber? I'm looking for a cheap way to check that. I'm thinking maybe getting a simple angle gauge from a hardware store (either using a plumb-bob or bubble level), and probably placing that against the brake rotor to help. Any suggestions? Miata Specific: this is for a Miata. I'm also planning to change my ride height at the same time. Will changing the ride height and camber also likely lead to toe changes? I don't know if the suspension set up has dynamic toe, or just camber. Thanks in advance.

What they said....

Just did it on the e30... checking it with my real Longacre digi-camber gauge reveals a dead match.

Place car on flat surface. Place straight-edge across wheel. Use an iPhone on the straight-edge with iCarpenter (zero it to the floor 1st) to read the angle in degrees. Adjust accordingly.

Lowering a miata will increase negative camber, toe in, and change the caster in some way that I don't remember. Ignore the marks on the crash bolts. They don't measure anything.

+1 on the iHandy Level app. Had a guy shoe up at the test & tune this weekend with a Mazdaspeed 3, checked front camber with my phone & it had -1.5* each side from the dealer!

I presume with the iPhone, you set it up against some sort of frame, strait edge, block of wood, or something to take your measurements?