All the swaybar?

If you are on the bumpstop, adding roll stiffness will make that end SOFTER.  a suspension that cannot move has infinite rate.

How about an aftermarket rear bar in addition to the TL front bar to balance out the roll stiffness?

Sorry, should have noted at the beginning that I would upsize both bars to maintain balance if I were to upsize the front. The big question is whether more roll stiffness through bars is likely to be beneficial, in theory, or if it will introduce problems that I'm not thinking about. 

Im not familiar with the Accord subframes but is there a way to mount a heavier bar from something else to the bottom of it and see what happens?  Anything I had with upper and lower arms liked a very big bar but they were all rwd.  I don’t know how if fwd changes that. 

so, I realize this suggestion is... "crazy", and a lot easier to type out than to actually do...  (but considering cross-over with Challenge cars, and that it's been a long time since I took courses on 'vibration and control')...

but could you add a second damper of equal or lesser 'damping' and get a cumulative increase in damping?

In reply to sleepyhead :

Yes. Trucks have done it for a very long time. Packaging is the main issue. Damping is an issue that can be solved with $$$, it's just a matter of doing it. 

sleepyhead said:

so, I realize this suggestion is... "crazy", and a lot easier to type out than to actually do...  (but considering cross-over with Challenge cars, and that it's been a long time since I took courses on 'vibration and control')...

but could you add a second damper of equal or lesser 'damping' and get a cumulative increase in damping?

Did this on teh RX-7.  The struts were blown and replacing them was a PITA not just for the expense, but also for the time factor - they were inserts in a unified strut/upright assembly.  So I searched the parts catalogs for shocks that were eyelets on both ends and roughly the right length to fit.  Drilled a hole in the stamped-steel TCA on the lower, welded a 3" long chunk of angle iron inside the strut tower for the upper, and mounted it in single shear.  Worked just fine.  Later  when I had decent inserts again, I'd install or remove them as a tuning tool.

The shocks, I dimly recall, were for the rear of an ACVW.  Since I was mounting them with a roughly 1:2 motion ratio, their damping effect was reduced in half.  The single shear mounting never gave a problem but the strut towers did start to crack at the upper mounts.

I got the idea from the article about the $1500 Challenge-winning MG VC.