I don't think Raymond has had good luck with Por-15
I don't think Raymond has had good luck with Por-15
you must be one of POR 15's cronies 
Lennyseleven wrote: ...more grassroots priced.......?
Rustoleum rusty metal primer, in the can, not the spray.
Cut it 50/50 with acetone. It soaks into the rusty metal and becomes remarkably tough and long lasting.
The thing I never understood about POR-15 is:
It's expensive. OK, I want to Paint Over this Rust-y battery tray with something that costs $30/quart.
"Proper" application, per the instructions, is more complex/expensive than properly removing the rust and priming/painting in the first place.
A good outdoor coating system...Epoxy primer and Polyurethane top coat, has nothing in common with the POR system.
Topcoating POR presents more challenges.
My money for rusty/unimportant stuff goes to 1. wire brush. 2.spray zinc primer (Awesome) and 3.spray bomb top coat.
-James
But I don't hate POR THAT much.
Personally I'm a fan of knocking all the crap off. Fixing the rust and cleaning the pits out with a wire wheel.
Then I hit it with PPG's metal cleaner & conditioner and top coat with an epoxy primer.
Your choice of topcoats can then go over that.
Definitely not 'grassroots' price, but I'm a big fan of doing things the right way...and only having to do them once.
Proper application:
Voila.
No, that's not Voila.
First they want you to wire brush it down to bare metal.
Second they want you to wash the heck out of it, preferably with their magic washing solution.
Third they want you to prime it, wit htheir magical primer.
Fourth they want you to put the por-15 on it.
Fifth is the top coat, that they say you need/don't need. Depends on the time of day, direction the wind is blowing, and which web page you read.
Personally, I despise the company and their reps due to direct business dealings with them and their product.
I remember when the claim the that you just brushed the stuff on rust and it was perfectly stablized and would never rust again. Sold a whole lot of that junk to people at trade shows. The next year, a whole lot of us had some real unhappy feedback due to the 100% total failure of all applications. They've never been back.
Some years later, they weasel-worded on their web page that they'd ripped a bunch of us off by selling us chassis-black in POR-15 cans. That may well be, that would certainly explain the 100% failures we all had. But that still leaves the 100% failures of those that used the silver unexplained.
Later, they revised their application instructions to require tremendous prep work. Something they did not require initially.
Recently one of our major bridges in the state was partially out of service due to POR-15 failure. They managed to talk the state into buying their garbage. Failed in record time, requiring a repainting of the bridge before they even finished the first painting. What a disaster that was. Contracts with the company have been terminated as a result. No future contracts or discussions are allowed with them.
POR-15 of course insists that the failures didn't happen, etc.
I have been using the eastwood stuff for over a decade and have been very happy with it. Wire brush the loose stuff off and paint it on. Not a beautiful finish but it has stopped rust. Even on battery trays.
As a locally available(somewhat)alternative to these products, I've been spraying the underside of my Tempest with Duplicolor truck bedliner. I have no idea how it will be long-term, but since it's a rattle-can, it goes on easy & it seems to be durable.
foxtrapper wrote:Lennyseleven wrote: ...more grassroots priced.......?Rustoleum rusty metal primer, in the can, not the spray. Cut it 50/50 with acetone. It soaks into the rusty metal and becomes remarkably tough and long lasting.
A buddy in my sports car club used this same material and swears by it.
I have to say... my (ex?)g/f loves POR-15... and since she is anal-retentive about following the prep-instructions, she's had good results... if she has one problem, it's that she paints EVERYTHING with it... even painted surfaces... POR-15 doesn't not adhere well to a smooth, painted, non-rusty surface...
Also doesn't hurt that POR-15 is NJ based... and being a Jerseygirl through and through, she will always defend them to the death... One of the same reasons she loves Zaino products (although I have to admit, I love their stuff as well).
In my experience, if you follwo the instructions to the letter, POR-15 works as advertised. However, it is neither quick nor cheap. For my next rust-projects, I plan to try Eastwood stuff. Because, they are, well... a PA company... and I'm in PA... and feeling a little anti-NJ right now... or I may try foxtrapper's Rustoleum/acetone system.
I've been looking for an easy way to paint/coat the interior of my track car after stripping all the carpet, foam, and assorted sound goo. I was planning to use regular ol' POR15, because I'm worried regular Rustoleum will just wear off and/or scratch. Anybody have experience with POR15 on interiors? I know they say not to expose it to too much sunlight, but this is a garage car that only comes out once a month or so.
foxtrapper wrote: No, that's not Voila. First they want you to wire brush it down to bare metal. Second they want you to wash the heck out of it, preferably with their magic washing solution. Third they want you to prime it, wit htheir magical primer. Fourth they want you to put the por-15 on it. Fifth is the top coat, that they say you need/don't need. Depends on the time of day, direction the wind is blowing, and which web page you read.
Not bare metal, but you have to get the loose crap off. That's SOP for any paint. It actually adheres better when there's a bit of surface roughness or rust than to new, shiny steel.
Second, the "magic washing solution" is phosphoric acid. You can smell it. Same magic solution you use when prepping to coat a gas tank with Kreen. Use Metal Etch from Home Depot instead, it's cheap and easy to get. Takes minutes - squirt it on with a spray bottle, let it sit for a moment, rinse it off. POR says this is only required on new metal, but I do it on all applications because it's quick and easy.
I've never used a primer, it's never been a problem. You may discover that just about any paint should be put on over a primer according to the manufacturer, POR is not unique here.
You need to the top coat for UV protection, otherwise the base coat will discolor. I used POR - applied as I described above - on the frame of my Land Rover about 6 years ago. It's been sitting outside in the harsh high-altitude sun ever since, and the stuff is staying on just fine. I've dragged it over rocks, rubbed it up against trees, stomped all over it (yes, the interior is covered in POR, some of which is topcoated with Rustoleum rattle can paint) and it's holding up beautifully.
I've used both POR-15 and Rust Bullet. Eh, good points and bad points on both, but both worked fine for the intended purpose. I tend to like Rust Bullet a little more because it doesn't take as many application steps. What drove me to powdercoating though was that both left brush marks. I suppose if I had sprayed it on it would be fine but the stuff really smells - Bad.
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