Aluminum anti-seize?

Need to do spark plugs this weekend, and picked up some anti-seize.  Did not really read it until I got home, and it says aluminum.  I always thought this was copper, not aluminum.  Is aluminum anti-seize equivalent, or do I need to go back and swap it for the copper stuff?

I’ve only ever used the silver stuff. Swiped a little onto lug nuts and spark plugs. Until recently, I don’t remember seeing it called “aluminum anti-seize” but at work we have aluminum/silver and the copper which, you guessed it, looks the same except for being the color of a new penny.  I’d like to learn the difference myself, so im subbed. 

If I remember correctly, the aluminum stuff is generally for room temp fasteners and copper is for hot things. I could be wrong.

Aluminum anti-seize is good for 1600°F. Copper is good for 1800°F.

I always use the silver. I think It sticks to things better. Not sure that makes sense. 

I used aluminum for years.  When the tub finally ran out, I bought copper as it is a higher temperature rating.  I never noticed an issue with the aluminum.

TenToeTurbo said:

Aluminum anti-seize is good for 1600°F. Copper is good for 1800°F.

TY, Mr. TTT. 

I've used aluminum / silver anti-seize on everything and never had an issue, including spark plugs. Don't use much, it only takes a dab.

Yeah, little dab will do ya.  I bought the tube that just ran out at the Saving Center on Watt Ave, which has been closed at least 20 years.

I’ve only used the nickel based stuff.... Not E36 M3ty aluminum or copper.

I've always used the silver-colored stuff.  If my aluminum head gets to 1600 F, I've got bigger problems than the anti-seize on the plugs.

Always used copper, lug nuts, exhaust studs, etc. 

Do you want to look like:

or like:

?

Why they sell this stuff in such a "large" bottle for the average guy I just don't know!

As some have said a bottle can last you years. I have one my father bought and he's been gone for almost 30 years!

I'd use the copper but having two bottles of the aluminum, I may never have to buy one.

I used the silver anti-sieze paste on spark plugs for years, until I learned in an advanced diagnostic class that it's a no-no.  The threads on the plugs are the ground connection and heat sink.  Now every plug is installed dry and properly torqued to factory specifications.

The aluminum paste is highly conductive, and even if it weren't you have plenty of contact to transfer the tiny amperage and massive voltage that a spark plug needs to ground.  Don't believe it?  Test any one of the ground pins in a socket in your house to a metal water supply line, a gas line, or a drain.  I promise you that even with all the teflon tape or paste on every joint you'll get zero ohms.  In fact, its common practice to use a grounding clamp on a copper water supply or an iron gas pipe to be a code-approved ground for an appliance.   At 50,000 volts and very few amps, a spark plug grounds just fine.

There are some applications where anti-seize is not recommended.  I don't use it in iron heads, but I usually do in aluminum heads.  This not only prevents bi-metal corrosion trouble but it protects the threads in the aluminum from galling.  I don't use them in Ford 3V Mod heads even though they're aluminum because the heads only have about 3 rounds of thread and they need all the help they can get staying in place.  The factory used anti-seize and it was the main reason spark plugs blew out of the heads.  They get loose, rattle around in the threads, and eventually erode them away and POP.  The proper thing to so there is to replace the plugs and not use paste.

But try it for yourself.  Install a plug with paste and one without paste.  Test the continuity using a meter and even with the wimpy 2v test circuit you'll see zero ohms on both.  At 50kv of spark, it wouldn't matter if you used silicone on the threads.

SkinnyG said:

I used aluminum for years.  When the tub finally ran out, I bought copper as it is a higher temperature rating.  I never noticed an issue with the aluminum.

I did exactly the same thing. Copper seems to last longer under high heat conditions. One small jar should last the rest of your life.

I've even used the copper anti seize when I re installed poly bushings on control arms since I didn't have the required poly grease at the time. The internet said so...

Woody said:

SkinnyG said:

I used aluminum for years.  When the tub finally ran out, I bought copper as it is a higher temperature rating.  I never noticed an issue with the aluminum.

I did exactly the same thing. Copper seems to last longer under high heat conditions. One small jar should last the rest of your life.

and the cap will never get stuck on the jar which is a nice touch

My employer paid a ton of money to have me test anti-seize on lots of different bolts.

There are a lot more factors than just the metal, and the temperature rating is almost never accurate.

For the garage and home use, it's all pretty good. For what we do, we spend a ton of money to get amazing stuff, because cutting off hundreds of 2 1/2" bolts and drilling them out really stinks.

Loctite HD is decent. Molykote is decent. T8E-G is the best we've ever seen. There are lots of others.

I wasn't even aware there was other antisieze aside from the gray tube at the auto parts store. I guess I should look a little harder next time

In reply to NEALSMO :

#1 Spark plugs operate with very high voltage and very low current. So anti-sieze will make no difference.

#2 Threads conduct heat through direct contact of the threadforms, essentially unaffected by the thin layer of anti sieze, which if aluminum or copper based, conducts heat BETTER than direct contact. Hint, it's why power transistors are mounted using heat sink compound, rather than dry.

#3 When installed dry into an aluminum head, the alumiunum will react chemically to form a layer of oxides and other compounds between the plug and the head. Guess what, those compounds are great insulators but SUCK at both conducting electricity and at transferring heat.

Just sayin'

clshore said:

In reply to NEALSMO :

#1 Spark plugs operate with very high voltage and very low current. So anti-sieze will make no difference.

#2 Threads conduct heat through direct contact of the threadforms, essentially unaffected by the thin layer of anti sieze, which if aluminum or copper based, conducts heat BETTER than direct contact. Hint, it's why power transistors are mounted using heat sink compound, rather than dry.

#3 When installed dry into an aluminum head, the alumiunum will react chemically to form a layer of oxides and other compounds between the plug and the head. Guess what, those compounds are great insulators but SUCK at both conducting electricity and at transferring heat.

Just sayin'

Well put

^ thermal paste on a processor heat sink. Aside from brand preference I usually just read the packages and use whatever I have on hand at the moment. There seems to be some overlap for the applications, but as your collection kind of grows with each trip to the parts store, you'll probably find more needs and uses for them. I would follow service manual recommendations but if you are taking the time to clean/chase threads and apply anti-seize to any and/or all fasteners that is taking extra optional steps to ensure good connections I think. Be careful the copper glitter seems to want to get everywhere.

Anti-seize travels faster than the speed of light. You can leave a smear of that stuff on the furniture before you ever get home...