amk i screwed? (injector content)

so, apparently the guy that TIG welded my injector bungs in left the injectors in while welding, instead of just using them for tacking purposes.

a few of the 8 have sustained damage to the pintle caps, O-rings, and what appears to be a plastic washer.

I haven't checked to see if any are stuck, and didn't know if I should even bother. these are under 1000 miles ford 30lb injectors. my other injector option are a set of 2000 corvette 28lb injectors that I got for free from where they were laying in a field attached to a ls1 manifold. obviously, id rather use the 30lb injectors.... engine is a naturally aspirated v8 producing 400rwhp on a piss poor tuned carb and ignition. im guessing 425 at the wheels with a good tune.

heres pictures of the damage. tell me if im screwed, or if I should test and replace all the pintle caps, etc. these are the worst.

[URL=http://s54.photobucket.com/user/dusterbd13/media/duster/20151203_141840_zps9w04nbdm.jpg.html][/URL] [URL=http://s54.photobucket.com/user/dusterbd13/media/duster/20151203_141844_zpsh9iqbw3b.jpg.html][/URL]

Sounds like the guy who welded your stuff up owes you new injectors. /thread

I'm going with "screwed."

Dude is long gone. So no recourse there.

Damage seems isolated to pintle cap end. The worst ones still click when voltage is applied.

But, is there something i can't test? Can get all the pintle cap parts fir $40.

http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=216322

If you take them to an injector rebuild place, they could test them for you and put new cap things on. You might be able to rig up something to test it yourself. Apply working pressure to the inlet side, voltage to the electrical connector and with the end in a jar, watch the pattern. That's how the pro's check them. Keep in mind that gasoline and electricity do not mix, and it would be worth a couple bucks to let someone else do it, versus spending time in the burn unit.

I would be concerned that plastic stuff inside got melted.

I've got nothing helpful to add, so.....

You're lucky those 30lb injectors didn't blow the welds on the intake.

In reply to TGMF:

Lol. It won't be the injectors. Maybe the 250 plate system. ...

Now you and the mad scientist gotta rip apart the injectors, and replace the pintle caps he just fried!

Testing is the only way to know. The good is that the heat was put in to the bungs and the manifold not the injector. The plastic melted but may have actually insulated the injectors from the heat.

Dr. Hess wrote: I'm going with "screwed."

He's fine. The injectors, on the other hand, are junk.

https://www.rceng.com/Fuel-Injector-Cleaning-P43C0.aspx

Hmmm...

I have a spare set of fuel rails and an in tank module. Could I test with water or something sprayed into the sink to see the injector pattern? Id like to stay away from flammable liquid for obvious reasons.

Trying not to spend 150 to have them checked out. Seems like i can do it at home with stuff laying around.

I'll probably use the same setup for cleaning if they check out.

And you guys have hit on both my trains of thought. First, bung and pintle were heat sink, so replace and rock on. Second, they're going to be junk once tested.

I just don't want to be fighting mechanical issues when trying to tune this thing.

Water would probably work. Diesel would work and is not that flammable. Water would tend to cause problems in your whole system if you didn't clean everything up right away. Diesel may actually clean stuff out.

Oooooh. Diesel. Good call. And if I test over driveway weeds, I can kill two birds with one stone!

Going to have to grab a gallon of it tomorrow after work. That, an old paint can to hold the reservoir/pump module, few feet of 3/8 fuel line, two hose clamps, lawnmower battery to power the pump, and my 9 volt wired to a spare injector plug.

What do you think?

Try to get 35-ish PSI. Dunno about the 9 volt. I'd wire the 12V to it with a switch a good ways away from the whole thing. Not that Diesel is that hard to start on fire. I use a blow torch to start Diesel in my waste oil stove. But be careful.

Atomized diesel will burn quite well so be mindful of that but in every other way it is better than using gas. I would use kerosene just because I think I smells better than diesel.

And yes your rig should work. If you can add a fuel pressure regulator in to the rig with a return that would keep the pressures where they should be. Less risk of blowing a hose or somthing.

Most people using home built waste oil heaters start them on kerosene. I use #2 Diesel 'cause it's cheaper and I can get it at the nearest gas station. I can't tell any difference between the two. I've hauled a boat load of the stuff, both #2 and JP4 and JP5. Probably more like 10 boat loads, and I mean real 300K bbl boat loads. Anyway, it is not near as volatile as gasoline, and the propane torch has to be on it for several seconds before it starts in my heater.

So at your suggestions, I emailed the pictures to a couple of injector places. All of them said they should be fine, but to send them in for cleaning and pintle cap replacement. At 20-30 each. I figure I can do it myself for a lot less.

Thanks guys.