Any body used this welder before?

I'm thinking of picking it up for body work and body armor(brush guard, running boards, etc.) any reviews?

http://www.amazon.com/Hobart-500549-Auto-Wire-Welder/dp/B002VECKTC/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1374448513&sr=8-4&keywords=welder

Hobart is generally good stuff, get gas for working thinner than 14 gauge.

I've had one for 12 years or so. Does everything I need, parts are available from a shop down town.

Dan

How thick can I work with this one? and as far as ease of use how'd you rate it? I've taken welding classes and know basically what I'm doing but I'm not very experience with thin gauge metal. I'm more interested in body work/pipe but I may be interested in doing frame stuff down the line.

1/8" will be no problem, 3/16" tops.

I have the handler 180. At the time I got it it was about $200 more than the at the time handler 130. The big advantages are obviously more power but mostlh a higher duty cycle at lower power. The 110V machine may be able to weld 1/8" but the 220v machine can do 1/8" at near 100% duty cycle. I have never managed to get mine to go into thermal protect even doing some 1/4" welding for a bumper fab.

That said if 220V isn't an option or the $200 extra is to much I wouldn't hesitate to run that machine. I was drawn to Hobart out of miller/Lincoln/Hobart for the value and this machine represents the same value in the 110v market.

I used to service / sell those when I ran the tool repair business.

Miller bought Hobart years ago and runs Hobart as their entry level line.

They're great welders for the home shop. If you wanted to make a living with it, step up to a miller.

You'll spend a little more on a Hobart than you will with Century, Solar or the junk from HF but as someone already mentioned, Hobart parts are available from most any welding supplier.

Shawn

I have the Miller with similar specs. When I got mine (6 years ago), the miller was just a little more but had a better duty cycle. It also came with the gas regulator. I've mostly welded 1/8" with it and am personally just not fast enough to really tax it. I've never used flux-core.

The only issue I had was with the extension cord I tried using when I first got it. Make sure you have a good heavy gauge extension cord. I also have the HF welder cart. Get it or similar, especially if you're going to have gas. The HF auto darkening helmet is pretty decent too.

I've been looking at welders lately and I see one or two problems with that one. As it shows up, you don't have enough power to do thick stuff, but it doesn't include a gas regulator either, to do the thin stuff. Budget another $100 for a good regulator. (in addition to your other safety gear.)

I wish it was only another $200 from this one to get a comprable 220v welder. The cheapest I've seen to get a HH190 to my door is around $750, so a full 220 setup is $1000-12000. :-/

I have a 240 amp Hobart that has been excellent. My only complaint is that the wire feed is a little weak and the cable must be free of bends, even gentle ones. But it's my first wire feed so maybe they are all like that.

I used that welder once. It had nothing on my Italian 110V HF MIG welder. The torch held a charge even when you weren't welding, which was kinda annoying. Now, the one I used was not set up right, so I couldn't say it was a proper test. I was way out back behind a shop on a long extension cord (problem) in the wind (problem) welding shattered (literally) dirty exhaust pipe. It did get the job done and got me home.

IIRC, my dad's cousin works at Miller and he said the Hobart has some plastic rollers (and guides or something) inside where as the Miller equivalent has metal rollers/guides. I think he alluded to the fact that you could just buy the metal rollers for the Miller and install them in the Hobart, and basically upgrade yourself to a Miller. Ya know... IIRC.

RossD wrote: IIRC, my dad's cousin works at Miller and he said the Hobart has some plastic rollers (and guides or something) inside where as the Miller equivalent has metal rollers/guides. I think he alluded to the fact that you could just buy the metal rollers for the Miller and install them in the Hobart, and basically upgrade yourself to a Miller. Ya know... IIRC.

I have a Hobart Handler 140, and don't see any plastic inside for the rollers and guides. I think the linked one may differ from what I own, though. Mine works great.

Dr. Hess wrote: I used that welder once. It had nothing on my Italian 110V HF MIG welder. The torch held a charge even when you weren't welding, which was kinda annoying. Now, the one I used was not set up right, so I couldn't say it was a proper test. I was way out back behind a shop on a long extension cord (problem) in the wind (problem) welding shattered (literally) dirty exhaust pipe. It did get the job done and got me home.

The HF welders haven't been Italian for some time AFAIK.

Yeah, Kenny, I heard. I got mine about 1994.

I have an ancient Hobart 120 that has worked great for me. Perfect for small little projects on the car and around the house. I haven't had any need to weld thick material yet.

I just got the Eastwood MIG 130. For just over $300 it comes with the regulator and wire.

This is the first welder I have used but it seems to work alright.

I do have some distant plans for a bumper for my Jeep so maybe I'll just have to bite the bullet and pick up a 220V now, no sense in having to upgrade in a year. Currently I was just looking to get into something to help practice my fab skills but I guess the better I start with the better parts I'll come out with. So sorta related question, for a pretty broke guy, looking to start fabing (roof rack, bumper, body work, etc) what would you guys say are my MUST have tools in the garage. As I said earlier I do have some experience welding so I have a helmet and some safety gear, I looking more for advice on what tools I need to pick up to make my life a bit easier but not too easy, I don't need a CNC or Waterjet or anything haha

Chop saw, angle grinder, with flap discs and grinding wheels. LOTS of clamps, assorted vice grip pliers, good gloves, HF auto dark helmet. Wire wheel on your table grinder. Mostly available at HF. Clamps are vital for set up, and cheap clamps don't hold up well. Magnetic clamps are very useful. This should be a good start for most of what you will probably be doing.

For me the $200 difference in price between the 110v wire feed and the 220v one looked a lot like the price of a decent 220v stick welder. The little 110v wire feed is so easy to use (I have the Hobart 125) for most car related stuff, and easier to use at someone else's shop if need be. If I'm welding something too thick I just tack it up and use the stick welder.

My Lincoln 110 mig welder is all I need for body work, which is what I bought it for. I'm sure I could use the 220 if I was ever doing heavier work. I used to have a good welder (person) near me that would do small jobs for cheap ($5-10 a pop). Unfortunately, he retired or passed away and the son didn't have the same work ethic the old man had. The shop is now closed.