Tired of having to replace $50 outer tie rod ends when one won't come out of the wheel hub easily and I either tear the crap out of the boot with a pickle fork or damage the threads even when using a throwaway nut or in the case of today, both. One side came out with the lightest tap from the deadblow. The other held on for a good couple of minutes with the 5lb mini sledge. I just installed both new ends 6 months ago and the car is garaged and hasn't seen a rainy day since. Was thinking that a light coating of anti-seize on the tapered section might help but not sure if that would cause problems with the tolerances. Any wisdom would be appreciated.
Thanks!
I think the problem is the removal portion. Try this tool.
In reply to Keith Tanner:
Best $16 I ever spent at HF, slide the tool on snug the nut up, hit the knuckle, tighten tool more, hit again, repeat until it goes bang and the joint is magically separated.
Another +1 for the tool Keith mentioned. It is the right tool. Pickle forks are demolition tools in my experience, not for disassembly of parts you want to use again.
Yes, the tool in the picture is good. But, leave the nut on the tie rod end (but a bit loose) or you will mash the end of it enough you still cant reuse it.
The 'two hammer' method works for me every time. Loosen the nut but leave it on the threads. Put the head of one hammer on the side of the knuckle 'eye' then whack the other side with the second hammer. Don't even have to hit it that hard. It can be done with one hammer too but that requires a much harder hit. And anti seize will not hurt anything.
Thanks everyone! I was not aware of the existence of that tool and have always relied on the forks in the past. A trip to HF may be in order today :)
Jack under control arm to put a bit of pressure, one or two hits with a hammer.
That's how I've always done it.
Oh, don't forget to check the toe when done.
I have a tool like this that has always worked pretty good.
JamesMcD wrote:
I have a tool like this that has always worked pretty good.
see those flat spots in the side of the steering arm?
those were put there to use as aiming points for a hammer...
Acquired tool, used it twice today. Ball joints damaged: 0.
Thanks again!
Curmudgeon wrote:
The 'two hammer' method works for me every time. Loosen the nut but leave it on the threads. Put the head of one hammer on the side of the knuckle 'eye' then whack the other side with the second hammer. Don't even have to hit it that hard. It can be done with one hammer too but that requires a much harder hit. And anti seize will not hurt anything.
huh, anytime i've used a hammer it's been with just one. i suspect the two hammer method would keep the upright a bit less beat up looking. i'll have to try that next time.
