Anyone have experience with OBX headers?

I know they're cheap eBay knock offs but I'm wondering it they're even worth the $100, I've read a couple reviews that talked about cracking, anyone got first hand experience with these?

Depends on the application.

2002 Infiniti G20 n/a

I had one on my Miata, it developed a small crack at the weld from the flange to one of the runners.

It was used when I got it so I don't know how old it was but other than that small crack it was alright.

I bought one for my old Hyundai Tiburon. Never installed it after noticing the mounting flange was welded wrong

I have one of their exhaust systems, and whoever designed it didn't know how to use a tape measure. Your experience may differ, but if it doesn't...you're in for some fun.

One of the guys on 3geez.com had issues with his, but no one else on the board has had issues yet. Ours was a direct copy of a header that went out of production.

There was a company called Hotshot that used to make headers for the B13 Sentra SE-R that probably would have fit your G20. They were American-made and used to make parts for other cars ignored by aftermarket companies (Saturns, Neon, Focus, etc.). If you can find one used, snag it!

Pacesetter makes a header for the Sentra SE-R that is made in the US and is a clone of the 1st. gen. Hotshot header.

http://www.jegs.com/i/Pace-Setter/766/70-1284/10002/-1

http://www.jegs.com/i/Pace+Setter/766/72C1284/10002/-1

be mindful of the Black Pacesetter headers. The black paint is to prevent rust in the warehouse and is not a high heat paint.

Mine burnt off the first day of driving around and I was not happy. Then I looked in the instructions, and sure enough...

Just so you know.

Keep your eyes peeled on the for sale section at G20.net - youll see headers pop up there all the time. Theyre typically pretty reasonably priced, and often youll find steals.

With regards to the OBX, I had some on my corolla. I wrapped mine in fiberglass tape. they never cracked (that I could see), and the wrap (supposedly) made more HP, and protected the steel from the elements (Ive heard people say it can actually hold water against the steel, causing it to rust faster as well). Either way, it kept my underhood temps way down, and made it easier to change oil and the like without burning the crap out of your hands. Added benefit is it was bout 7 lbs lighter than the cast iron manifold and downpipe installed by the factory.

the OP never said what it was for.

i used a set on a CRX for a few years. been fine. their gaskets suck, though,

used a set on my old track S10. fit good, threads for air injection bungs were unusable, PITA to get all the bolts in, and the y-pipe was made wrong.

looking at getting one for my neon ACR when the toime comes, as its a direct knock off of the TTI, with whom i refuse to deal anymore.

I posted it was for a 2002 Infiniti g20 above, sorry I didn't include it in my original post. I've looked for the hotshots and haven't found any used yet. My other question which you guys kinda touched on was if the sentra headers fit and which years would fit my car, I did see plenty available for the sentra, nismo has them still avaiable(although they are $900 I beleive). I'd just rather spend the money on a reliable part as this is my summer DD.

I'd be wary of the "OBX" brand of parts. I've heard of VW kids that bought their limited slip diffs and had them blow up about 300 miles later. Also heard of the crappy welds on headers from the 240 crowd.

mad_machine wrote: I bought one for my old Hyundai Tiburon. Never installed it after noticing the mounting flange was welded wrong

What does that mean, and could it be fixed?

The reason I ask is that challenge priced parts come up that look pretty crappy, but quite a few of the challenge builders are quite good welders, so depending on what is wrong with the weld, it could be repaired.

(this is assuming used parts, BTW...)

I shopped OBX for a new manifold for my N/A Volvo 850, they have fairly good reviews in the Volvo community. I however wound up buying one from DNA Motoring.

It was cheaper than OBX, and from the pictures exactly the same as all of the other Chinese SS headers. I was a guinea pig, and did a little write up about the Volvo header over on MVS: http://www.matthewsvolvosite.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=1&t=45649 So far so good, but it's only been about 6 months.

You may not find exactly what you want on their website, but they've got an eBay store with a bunch of stuff too, that's where I got mine.

• Lee

I bought a used OBX header for my 99 Miata mostly because it was lighter than the stock manifold. The header is a copy of the Racing Beat tri-y design. I think I was lucky because the header has held up well but the fit is a little iffy. I can't complain for the $100 I paid for it. From the internet forums it seems most people have had bad experiences with OBX products on Miatas. I feel like I lucked out.

Jasma SR20 Header - $130
Non-EGR model, so yooud have to do an EGR delete - its not hard to do.

Over at G20.net

Ranger50 wrote: Depends on the application.

I think this must be true. It was all I could find for Tom Celica and I wasn't real happy about it. I'd heard bad things. But so far they've been great. Built better than I expected. Decently thick flange. They look pretty nice too.

DukeOfUndersteer wrote: I'd be wary of the "OBX" brand of parts. I've heard of VW kids that bought their limited slip diffs and had them blow up about 300 miles later. Also heard of the crappy welds on headers from the 240 crowd.

I'd be wary about OBX parts as well. Some guys on Honda-tech have long discussed the OBX LSDs, and some have "rebuilt" them (tightening all of the fasteners and inspecting the machining on the unit), and afterwards they tended to be better than just installing the unit from the box. However, that, in my opinion is still a big risk if they company did not properly assemble it.

Exhausts are a different type of product, but as Duke said, I had a friend with a 240sx and he ran into some issues with both an OBX and a Hotshots header in terms of fitment and cracking at the welds. I believe one he had was used, but I don't remember which.

Besides, OBX's company slogan is "E36 M3 is good!" And they aren't talking about BMWs.

I have a pair of their stainless long-tubes on the 6.0 in my Silverado. They've been on for nearly a year. The welds are beautiful, fit was damn near perfect, and they still look like new, even after driving all last winter.

OBX makes a header for Saturns that is known for having flange-sealing problems, and occasionally cracks. They also make a cat-back that is an extremely poor fitting clone of the Thermal R&D.

OBX used to make a $200-something stainless cat-back for Saabs that was known in the community for its shockingly good fit and finish, for what it's worth. At the same time a buddy of mine bought one of their headers for his beater Civic and it never quite sealed right. YMMV, of course.

doc_speeder wrote: I have a pair of their stainless long-tubes on the 6.0 in my Silverado. They've been on for nearly a year. The welds are beautiful, fit was damn near perfect, and they still look like new, even after driving all last winter.

same on the ones on the 5.3 lsx in my impala. they were 4th gen f body headers and cost about 20% of what the non stainless b body lsx swap headers cost(and at the time there were none). they have been on for a year and the welds were awesome and they still look great. i did have to oblong the 2 end holes on each header.

So with the pacesetters(still unclear on if they fit) has anyone tried stripping the factory rust protection paint and hit it with high temp paint? I believe duplicolor makes some. I know they make high temp engine paint, would the headers be way too hot for that?

I've heard some bad feedback regarding pacesetter fit and durability