Yes, you have to pull the rear suspension and the exhaust and the crossover braces below it. The clutch release lever has to be pulled from the bell housing in the front to release the shaft.
Did it in my 924 and it's not that bad as it is meant to be serviced this way. It just seems worse than it actually is. Rebuilding the torque tube is the worse part of the job actually.
you do not need to drop the rear suspension if you are doing the clutch?
The shop book describes the process btw.
you lift up the front and rear, and rotate the whole assembly 180*. This lets you slide it back 5 more inches... (there are lugs that stop it from moving backwards...
(remove transaxle, unbolt bellhousing/tube connection. Rotate the tube 180* about the center of the axle and slide backwards... )
I did it on my back using my feet and hands. :D (12 years ago.)
Mad_Ratel wrote: you do not need to drop the rear suspension if you are doing the clutch? The shop book describes the process btw. you lift up the front and rear, and rotate the whole assembly 180*. This lets you slide it back 5 more inches... (there are lugs that stop it from moving backwards... (remove transaxle, unbolt bellhousing/tube connection. Rotate the tube 180* about the center of the axle and slide backwards... ) I did it on my back using my feet and hands. :D (12 years ago.)
This guy is correct. Don't completely remove the torque tube if you are just doing a clutch. The 180 degree rotation is the secret to making enough room to get to it.
I had to do this for a customer car about 8 yrs ago. It took forever but didn't have to drop the rear suspension due to the tube flip. After new clutch, changed the flywheel sensors... one of the bolts slipped out of my hand, landed on the bellhousing, and fell into one of the open holes, coming to rest BEHIND the flywheel. Had to essentially do the whole thing all over again. I saved the bolt, shot it with a .308 a few weeks later 
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