Plus I'm 75% to a Dale Sr paint job. Rebel flag on the roof, yes or no?
Also I got the direct number to the tech man. Manual transmission allowed, variable valve timing not allowed, bolt-in cage allowed, and cavalier gas tank location does not require a fuel cell.
Keep good oil in that 2.4
Zomby Woof wrote: Keep good oil in that 2.4
Rare engine? Or prone to damage? I use Mobil 1 in everything.
That's an awfully nice little car to be trashing on an oval track. But have fun!
Rod bearings, but it doesn't usually happen if everything is in order. We owned a few of those and they were good cars.
hobiercr wrote: In reply to Ovid_and_Flem: The cheaper the class the better the girlfriend fights in the stands!
And I'm off to buy a circle track car.
Nice pickup on the Z24 Cavalier.
Z24 was a rust bucket from up north :( sure photographed well but I'm not starting with a rusty one.
The automatic cars are so much more common it has me wondering if I should consider an auto. Any thoughts on that?
A guy around here wins quite a bit with a 2000-2005 Ford Focus 4-door. Another car comes to mind would be a GM V-6 in a Sunbird or a old Grand Am.
chada75 wrote: Another car comes to mind would be a GM V-6 in a Sunbird or a old Grand Am.
Zomby Woof wrote: Big track. The best V6 GM vehicle you can afford to run.
Trust me, I grew up around this E36 M3
Lof8 wrote: Z24 was a rust bucket from up north :( sure photographed well but I'm not starting with a rusty one.
It's a throwaway car for a throwaway class. Unless the frame is falling out of it, there's no reason not too.
OTOH, that car is priced about 5 times what I'd expect to pay for that class.
In reply to Zomby Woof:
I do see your point. But if I'm going to put the time and money into caging a car, I don't want to start with a complete E36 M3 box. Florida is the land of rust-free cars. No need to use a rusty one. Also I anticipate the car needing repairs and I'd rather not torture myself with rusted up fasteners. I know it's the bottom of the barrel class and cars, but I would like to have decent equipment and try to run near the front of the pack and give myself any advantage I can.
Since lightening the car will cause the stock springs to raise the ride height they will need to be tweaked to bring the car back to stock or a little lower ride height. Still "Stock". Negative camber on the right, positive on the left. More caster. A little toe out on the rear. All "Stock".
You should only be running in one gear once you get moving I don't see why an auto would be a problem. I can see where rust is a issue in those cars. I was going to race mind once we bought a new car but even though it had no visible rust from the outside my rockers, quarter and floors rotted from the inside and were nothing but paint.
So here's the next possible candidate. 1st gen dohc 5-speed neon. It's been setup and used for dirt track. It'll need some changes to be "strictly stock" legal. But it's gotta be cheaper and easier than starting from scratch.
If cheap enough, do it. I miss my neon....
too things come to mind on a 3/8 mile track you wiil not likly need to get out of 3rd gear it may sound a little straind but your lap times will be better.
2 NEVER show up at a race track in sandels, and The white socks should be covered with some sort of BOOT.
I like the fire suppression system
The 2.4 Z24 or Sunfire GT (harder to find) would be my pick, or cheaper a 2.2 Cavalier or Sunfire with a 5 speed or 4 speed auto. Some of the models had a horrible 3 speed auto. The 2.2 is a tough little motor. If the water pump appears to be old or original, I'd replace it.
4 cyl class circle track racing continues to grow. Some tracks have more than 1 class now (such as stock or pure and then a modified class).
This is a cheap way to get into a motorsport.
The cavaliers tend to be cheaper. I've had the idea to make a "Vettecart" out of a 5 speed model, and online research I found this circle track parts operation for Cavaliers: http://www.chevycavalierworld.com/index.html
I have not purchased anything from them so cannot make a recommendation
Lof8 wrote: Strictly stock rules
This rulebook would make the Chumpcar guys heads asplode.
P.S. "Self-regulating" in circle track lingo means that if you win and get caught cheating you're gonna get your ass whipped.
In reply to Lof8:
You're taking this far too seriously. This is an entry level, pure stock type of class. Buy a beater, strip it, then go out, learn and have fun. When you think you're ready to go fast, then take it this seriously and move up to a real lass like mini stock, or street stock.
GTXVette wrote: too things come to mind on a 3/8 mile track you wiil not likly need to get out of 3rd gear it may sound a little straind but your lap times will be better. 2 NEVER show up at a race track in sandels, and The white socks should be covered with some sort of BOOT.
I just realized why you made the sandal comment 
Thats the seller in the photo. The guy had a very extensive racecar collection in his backyard! One shipping container full of neon parts, one holding 3 sprint cars, and one with 2 mini sprints, plus a wide assortment of other "racing stuff" strewn about the yard.
Zomby Woof wrote: In reply to Lof8: You're taking this far too seriously. This is an entry level, pure stock type of class. Buy a beater, strip it, then go out, learn and have fun. When you think you're ready to go fast, then take it this seriously and move up to a real lass like mini stock, or street stock.
I am taking it a little bit seriously because I'm a competitive person. I want to go out and run near the front and compete for wins. I'm also a frugal person and don't want to spend the money to compete in a mini stock or street stock class. I want to compete in the cheap class.
I'm already involved in chump racing, rallycross, autcross, $2k challenge, and motorcycle racing. My goal is not to climb the ladder at the circle track. My goal is to bang fenders and compete for wins with as little money out of pocket as possible, so, yes, I am taking the car hunt relatively seriously.
1g Saturn worked very well for us in Chump. Are you allowed to weld the diff?
AngryCorvair wrote: 1g Saturn worked very well for us in Chump. Are you allowed to weld the diff?
Weld the diff, or weld the pin?
weld the diff to prevent one wheel spin, weld the pin for some security when one wheel spins.
the tech guys won't check unless protested.
then 70% of the field will be disqualified.
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