Audi a4 experts

I am looking for a 97-2001 a4 turbo car. Is there any year 1.8t quattro that is less problem prone ? I have had a 99.5 fly by wire model back in 2001 and it was pretty reliable. Never had any coil pack problems that I hear about. I have been told 97-99.5 are non fly by wire cars. Is there any significance in reliability overall in the earlier 1.8 turbo cars. I know Audi reliability is always in question but having good luck with a previous one brings me back. Dont want to get stuck with a lemon and would like to know if there is a pattern . Just wanna get a concensus of maybe the best model year etc. Will be looking on the Audi forums as well, thanks

The 99 and up had the 180 horse engine, and what i remember, in 01 they went to a wideband Lamba sensor, which is very tuner friendly and the 06A block with an internal water pump

All the 1.8T answers you will ever want to know

99.5 was the first model with the drive by wire, you can tell because it has the updated dashboard. The 180 hp motors didn't come out until 2000 I believe.

I had very good luck with my 97 A4, I'd just get the nicest one for the price...

all vw/audi seem to have electrical gremlins or problems that can be a pain and expensive to track down. Then again sometimes you get one that has none, luck of the draw I guess. otherwise they are good cars.

If your planning on getting one, get a quattro car, they're the same price and I think it would actually be harder to find one without it, lol.

Andrew

I don't know about reliability, but the '97-'00 AEB code engine has a better flowing head and is supposed to respond better to modifications.

When I researched them I found this site useful.

http://www.audiworld.com/

Thanks guys, more specifcally I want to know if the 97-99.5 1.8turbo cars are more desireable based on reliability(engine management,coil gremlins,tuning). Been finding a lot of 99.5-2001 in my price range, while the earlier ones seem harder to find. Debating on info/input if the 97-99 are worth seeking out and waiting for. Having stated before of already owning flybywire 99.5 I am aware of the following issues ALL these cars present; front control arm maintinence, misc. electrical gremlins(abs lights, cel etc.), rear wheel bearings, dash pixil problems. Looking for a well maintained/documented example. I also wonder if the 2002 + a4s are more coil failure prone or is it a 99.5+ fly by wire issue. I need to look at the consumer reports as well. Thanks Corey, and yes I know about Audiworld, I want input from other forums besides AW.

The AEB is the last of the cable driven cars, has the larger port head, old style waterpump, etc. ATW was the one after that with the small port head, old style water pump, etc. Those are the only two engines (sans TT 225) with the 'strong' version of the connecting rods without the crack cast big end and "small" small end.

The cars that use the 3pin coils (AEB definitely not sure of others) have GREAT coils but the little ignition modules are failure prone. No way to win on the ignition front, though it's one part that can go bad instead of 4.. but it's more $$. My B5 S4 used those coils and I went through two ignition modules @ 90/ea and I think the 4cyl ones are more $$ because they're 4 channel instead of 3.

I wouldn't pass up a later car due to DBW unless you plan to mod it to a power level that might leave con rods on the pavement (300hp+). AEB rods have done 500whp on gas and 700whp + on alky.

Sweet! I didn't know that the ATW also had the stronger rods. That's what I got for free, and what I'm putting together for the '81 Scirocco.

How far away from you are you looking for a 97-99.5 car? I know where I am, north of philly there are a ton of those cars around, I know its not exactly close to you, but still.

Andrew

FYI: My wife has a 2004 A4 and it had coil problems right out of warranty. we took it to a local shop for the fix about 2 years ago. we just got a letter from Audi saying that they will reimburse us for the parts and labor for that fix. I don't know if they lost a class action suit or what. I just got copies of the invoices from the shop and have it ready to send in.

Our biggest beef is the crappy window regulators. I have 3 out of 4 windows that either make noise going up/down or will have trouble going up when you put them down.

In reply to digdug18:

3hr radius out of Cleveland, looking for a silver or white one. Thanks

Yep Corey ATW is same block as AEB but with a small port head up top and the first motor to get DBW. I only know because it was the first motor for the Challenge Rabbit that never came to pass.

So the 2001 model should be the least desireable year with, small port head, smaller rod wrist pins, FBW, internal water pump. What is the difference in the dashboard 99.5 and later?, the cluster readout?

I believe the early drive by wire cars had an issue that might discourage someone into performance driving. I believe there was an automatic throttle cut in certain situations. I remember reading it on audiworld. I don't remember it as being a huge issue, but more of an annoyance.

Rusnak_322 wrote: FYI: My wife has a 2004 A4 and it had coil problems right out of warranty. we took it to a local shop for the fix about 2 years ago. we just got a letter from Audi saying that they will reimburse us for the parts and labor for that fix. I don't know if they lost a class action suit or what. I just got copies of the invoices from the shop and have it ready to send in. Our biggest beef is the crappy window regulators. I have 3 out of 4 windows that either make noise going up/down or will have trouble going up when you put them down.

Have you had the fun of changing a window regulator on it yet? Fun Fun Fun. Unlike ALL other car companies that have 3 wires going to the motor. VW/Audi has 20+ wires going to the motor, its a nightmare remembering the pinout to wind the window down, then back up to pull the motor. Add to that the trouble of them using torx or security torx everywhere inside the door and its even worse.

Andrew

In reply to digdug18:

I have the parts for the drivers side. There is an aftermarket part for the pass side that is supposed to be cheaper and better made. It is on back order nd it is like 12 degrees outside right now.

I don't know if this was mentioned, but the 99-2001 is easier to tune out of the box (plus 01/01.5 has a bigger turbo IIRC). However, when I get one this summer, it'll be a 1998, blue A4 1.8T manual. I'm thinking 300whp should be a good number to start with. Just remember, you need rods around the 350whp point. ENJOY

The early rods can hold way more then that.

Paul_VR6 wrote: The early rods can hold way more then that.

From what I've seen, no they can't.

OK, let me rephrase. The factory rod bolts can't. But with the ease my buddy (he has his own Audi/VW shop) swaps them out, I do not see why you wouldn't while you are in there. Every 1.8T I've seen pushed to ~400hp at the crank kersplodes if the rods/bolts aren't done. Just sayin', thats my personal experience.

My wife has a 2004 A4 Q 2.8 NA. Bought it 3 years ago w/ 68k miles, one owner, $8k. Needed a tie rod end.

Eventually it's going to need timing belts and a clutch, and I've already informed her that the penalty for owning $41k cars that cost 8 is that I will not do either of those jobs.

The LF strut is borked from when she curbed it, so I got her a set of Bilsteins for Xmas. (how romantic) I was however completely stymied trying to disassemble the nightmare of linkages, ball joints and pinch bolts to install said strut. I've never encountered a stuck fastener I couldn't shift in over 30 years of wrenching, and I have all the tools, but this car stopped me in my tracks. Come to think of it, the tie rod end was a pig to get off as well.

My e36 is easier than a Civic to work on, the A4 fills me with dread. So you may want to consider that.

Later rods with the 19mm pin I totally agree. Earlier rods have done a lot of hp.