Autocross alignment and tire wear

While changing the oil on Wedge, my Red Mazda 2, I noticed feathering on the inner edges of the front tires. I installed crash bolts and got about 2 degrees of negative camber and then set the toe at about a sixteenth of an inch out. Handles great with stock suspension and BFG sport comp 2s. But I want them to last.

What's an easy way to swap between a street alignment and autocross settings? I was thinking of taking measurements again, marking everything with paint or scoring (strut housing at bolts and tie rod ends), then setting back to street. My hope is to be able at the event to lift the front, remove the tires, set to ax by way of marks and indicators, reinstall tires, have fun. At the end of the event reverse the procedure.
Thoughts?

Try running it at 0 toe. That'll help tire wear significantly and you might find it doesn't give up much at autocross.

Zero toe is what I've been running, almost -2 degrees up front, no abnormal tire wear.
(Bonus points for the Evo preferring zero toe, but yeah)

I have never had anything but improved front tire wear when running up to about -2.5° static camber. Although 1/16" is minimal, I suspect it's the toe out. I'm not a big fan of a lot of toe - I'm not a good enough driver to appreciate the snappier turn in, for the extra wear it causes.

Was also gonna say zero toe. I only recommend toe-out for cars with slow steering racks.

zero toe

If you corner harder, you will wear the outside of the tires more and even it up. A Miata is intended to be driven like it is stolen, pretty sure that is in the owner's manual

Yep, after trying in and out toe on my ZX2SR I found zero to work the best.

Even with zero toe and 1.5* of camber you'll still get some inner tread wear long term. I've been told so many times "Camber doesn't kill tires, toe does" and while that is MOSTLY true, long term with that much camber you will wear the tires on the inner edge more. I just rotated more often.

Set for zero toe for street driving. I would then guesstimate (or figure out exactly how many turns when on an alignment rack) 1/16-1/8 toe out adjustment at the track. It's a two minute adjustment easily done in a parking lot. The trick is to only adjust one tie rod, that way you know you're back to zero if your steering wheel is straight on the drive home.

Best of both worlds

I too hate toe but my shop dialed it in anyways.

Time to find a new shop.

With toe out and negative camber you are dragging the inside wheel.

The built in ackerman will take care of the toe out. Also an increase in caster will help some with the camber problem on the inside wheel.

Rotation every event is the best way to prevent uneven wear.

Car is only used for autocross and daily driver. One autocross a month.

So leave the camber as is?

I will zero the toe and rotate the tires. I drive 50 miles round trip 5 days a week. And need the tires to last.

With 0 toe, 2* of camber shouldn't be enough to cause much uneven wear, so yeah, I'd just leave the camber as-is.

Many newer cars come with negative camber from the factory.

slight but there.