backyard painters. I have a few questions before i dive in.

I can not stress enough how much i like the products from paintforcars.com.  They have a good/better/best type system.  For challenge car I bought good, and was so happy with their paint that i bought best for the chevelle and have another order to place with them soon.  

i have used their $17 gold filler back to back with evercoat rage gold and can not tell the difference.  

In reply to Patrick :

Agreed. Their stuff is way better than it has the right to be at the price point they are at.

PPG did offer an economy line of paints called Omni.  I wouldn't recomment it for a panel repair, but for an overall respray its great.  I got 1/2 Gal Base, Gallon of clear, hardener and reducer for $150 or so.  Southern Polyurethanes offers a great 2k Primer that is wallet friendly compared to big name brands.

I've shot Omni. It works fairly well, although I think the urethane 5.0 from NAPA lays down better. 

2GRX7 said:

I don't mean to thread-jack -figured it would be better to ask here.

I'm looking to paint my RX-7 and I'm wondering if the current, questionable paint that flakes off if you accidentally hit it too hard, would need to be completely sanded off, or could I get away with "basic" sanding and then a re-shoot?

You have to get rid of the stuff that's flaking off. Your new paint will just adhere to the layer below, and if that layer isn't properly attached then it'll still flake. Not the answer you want to hear, but it's unfortunately what has to happen.

2GRX7 said:

 

I don't mean to thread-jack -figured it would be better to ask here.

I'm looking to paint my RX-7 and I'm wondering if the current, questionable paint that flakes off if you accidentally hit it too hard, would need to be completely sanded off, or could I get away with "basic" sanding and then a re-shoot?

You have to get rid of the stuff that's flaking off. Your new paint will just adhere to the layer below, and if that layer isn't probably attached then it'll still flake. Not the answer you want to hear, but it's unfortunately what has to happen.

Nope-but it sounds logical, and I'm fine with that! Besides, the hood and Hatch are both Carbon Fiber, so there's a whole heck of a lot less to sand! I could possibly get it done in a week. Thx

When i was in a FL trade school, we used a Martin Senour single stage urethane to spray an extended cab F-150.  The coverage was insane. As we did the whole truck including the bed in 3 coats with a 1/2 gal.

Martin Senour = NAPA, FYI. That's the same stuff I've used with good results.

How should I wash the car if there is bare metal exposed in places? I'm getting ready to shoot the Volvo truck and there is dust in places that the blow gun has a hard time removing. Should I just wash it then blow everything off and let dry?

I'm likely going to go with an acrylic enamel single stage. I was going to try paintforcars.com but the TCP Global restoration shop line has a color I like better. Does anyone have experience with their paint? 

I am ordering some more filler this week to finish up the bodywork along with a DTM/high build primer. Probably this one: https://www.paintforcars.com/product/xtreme-dtm-high-build-primer/. 

These things became my best friends when I was doing the body on the Molvo.

Up until the high build is on the car I did not want water near the tin. The go-to was to use this to spray panel wash and wipe with blue shop paper towels. I used a LOT of those towels.

Once you get the DTM high build on, you can let loose with the hose and really wash the car. The product you are looking at reads a lot like the Valspar DTM 2008 that I used. I think you should be happy with it as a high build and a sealer. Dont try to sand the high build mix to 600.

Pete

I honestly fog primer over the bare metal after blow gunning and wipe down. Then wash with dawn and a good nozzle on the garden hose. It will blow off primer that was painted over dust/dirt. Reapply primer agter wash, then do next round of washing and sanding and priming and.....

Unless youre going for good enough. Like i am with the white trash neon. 

In that case, i sanded it wiyh 220, bare in some places. Washed with purple power, followed by a red scotchbrite and dawn and hot water. Rinsed off. Dried in the sun, shot with rattle can rustoleum. 

In reply to EvanB :

Doood- you just solved my “where do I find the right color paint for less than an arm and a leg” problem.

Thank you!