If you don't want to spill the beans on what kind of car you're going to use, maybe you could throw up what kind of transmission it has.
No...we'd be able to figure out what kind of car, then.
So, what kind of car is it?
If you don't want to spill the beans on what kind of car you're going to use, maybe you could throw up what kind of transmission it has.
No...we'd be able to figure out what kind of car, then.
So, what kind of car is it?
Like I said it's imaginary.
Graphical representation of what it could potentially look like.
If there's another car from the same manufacturer with an LSD available and a similar drivetrain, you could always see if that part can be adapted to work in your hypothetical car.
Example: You can fit a Quaife LSD for a Hyundai Tiburon or FWD DSM into a 2001-2006 Elantra, with the addition of differential bearings and a speedo gear from an AWD DSM.
Giant Purple Snorklewacker wrote: You split the brakes left/right into 2 channels and when one wheel spins faster than the other you apply the brakes to that side to transfer power to the other wheel. One might use the signals from the ABS sensors, a repurposed ABS pump and an arduino.
SAAB 9000s from the mid-late 90s were like this. The traction control was only concerned about speed differential between left and right. It would cheerfully ignore it if you had both tires blazing away at 60mph while you were standing still... as long as they were going the same speed plus or minus a small percentage.
GameboyRMH wrote: On a FWD car? I'd only do that if it's for drag racing, not street driven, and you have an air jack in the rear with a caster on it to make it easy to turn.
Have you ever driven a FWD with a welded diff?
It works just fine on the street so long as you remember one basic rule: Never back up and turn.
And on course, DAMN does it work good. It understeers horribly unless you are on the throttle, and then it's like the car is sugar-crashing and it saw a plate of Little Debbies on the inside of the corner.
bigdaddylee82 wrote: Like I said it's imaginary. Graphical representation of what it could potentially look like.
Those axle stubs make me think Subaru, and I'd be shocked if they didn't build the trans around R160 or R180 parts. Meaning, find a limited slip from the rear of a different Subaru, or Nissan.
You can machine your own Phantom Grip for under $40 in parts, or draw it up in CAD and get a local shop to do it for around $100. Die springs are cheap from Grainger.
I did a phantom grip many moons ago with an old 240sx (too cheap to spend the $1k on a fancy diff). It was better than an open diff, but still not that great, so I decided to try something myself....... I worked at a machine shop with access to all of the equipment then. I basically made a solid block that was just a couple thousandths wider than the gap between the spider gears. Drilled a hole for spider gear pin, then pressed that bitch into the carrier, relying on sheer pressure to make it work. It worked GREAT for about 2 months, until one day I heard a loud bang from the rear end, and back to a one wheeler peeler. Turns out the pressure and hooning was too much and it cracked the carrier. Oh well, I was only out a few hours of work. Eventually manned up and got a real diff in it.
Knurled wrote:bigdaddylee82 wrote: Like I said it's imaginary. Graphical representation of what it could potentially look like.Those axle stubs make me think Subaru, and I'd be shocked if they didn't build the trans around R160 or R180 parts. Meaning, find a limited slip from the rear of a different Subaru, or Nissan.
FWD Justy isn't gonna have an R160/R180.
Knurled wrote:GameboyRMH wrote: On a FWD car? I'd only do that if it's for drag racing, not street driven, and you have an air jack in the rear with a caster on it to make it easy to turn.Have you ever driven a FWD with a welded diff? It works just fine on the street so long as you remember one basic rule: Never back up and turn. And on course, DAMN does it work good. It understeers horribly unless you are on the throttle, and then it's like the car is sugar-crashing and it saw a plate of Little Debbies on the inside of the corner.
I haven't driven a FWD with a welded diff, but I figured if it's anything like a 4WD with a locker in the front it wouldn't be pleasant.
I still wouldn't like a car that understeers on both accel AND decel, even if it has that "sucked into the corner" feeling. What if I go in too fast and want to bleed off some speed while still turning, how would I get oversteer?
yamaha wrote: I thought phantom grips were complete and utter garbage.......
Nope. Had one for my ZX2SR. Better than an open unit.
In the early days of ice racing, guys would enclose the differential housing to make a container and then fill it with various substances, Oil or grease. Heard they worked good while cold.
GameboyRMH wrote: What if I go in too fast and want to bleed off some speed while still turning, how would I get oversteer?
Handbrake?
GameboyRMH wrote: I still wouldn't like a car that understeers on both accel AND decel, even if it has that "sucked into the corner" feeling. What if I go in too fast and want to bleed off some speed while still turning, how would I get oversteer?
Understeers when coasting, sucked into the corner when accelerating.
How do you scrub off speed? Same way you do with any car, the brakes still work the same.
iceracer wrote: In the early days of ice racing, guys would enclose the differential housing to make a container and then fill it with various substances, Oil or grease. Heard they worked good while cold.
I've heard a variation on this. Seal the inside of the diff and add lead bird shot and/or brass chips and 140 wt. gear oil. I'd like to see it for myself, but I'm not volunteering any cars that own or care about.
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