Before I turbo my honda I want to have a back up vehicle, since it will likely become less reliable. I already have a beater car, so a beater truck appeals to me. Keep in mind I'm 6'3", so extended cab is probably a must. I've looked at ranger's, mighty max's etc. Also not opposed to an old japanese box like the Trooper. I'm open to all suggestions. Help me decide!
IMO...
In that price range, you should look at an individual vehicle itself, not for a specific brand/model. Find a truck in the best condition you can, maybe with some visibly new parts.
88-95 ish nissan hardbody. hands down. get a 3.0 v6 with a stick, or the 2.4 is fine too. ignore mileage, look for condition. my 91 was literally unkillable for 230,000 miles. i sold it needing a clutch 4 years ago. the new owner DDs it, and has yet to change it out, just babies it along. i actually miss that truck...
-J0N
Condition, condition, condition. And I'd skip Mitsubishi products.
Being a little tall does not cause a need for an extended cab.
If I was your height I would find the best 1975-1999 fullsize V8 Chevy in my price range.
I am 6ft1 and fit in the standard can with room to spare. Newer 2wd TBI trucks get decent fuel mileage, all are easy to work on and reliable if maintained. Sound great with an exhaust too.
If your gonna get a beater truck might as well get one that can tow your honda.
Full size anything. Mini trucks are cramped, underpowered and useless for towing. I've owned enough of them, moved to full size trucks and have zero regrets. The gas mileage isn't that much worse if you choose a decent drivetrain combo.
My personal fav is a Ford with a 300 straight six and a manual trans. They are everywhere.
80-86
87-91
92-96
I'm 6'-3" 250lbs and had the pleasure of beating an '88 Ranger reg. cab 4x2, 2.0 5 spd, vinyl bench for 5 years.
Never knew a vehicle could survive that much abuse. It was more fun than a beater should ever be.
I just picked up a 2000 4.2l v6 ford xl that needs one injector (which I also just got in) and two spots welded on the exhaust for 850 bucks. clear coat is bad and has 185000 miles but it runs and drives. Deals are out there.
If you're talking compact pickups I could see the need for extended cab to benefit your seating position. I have a friend who is rather short and even he complains about the straight up seating position in his standard cab 2wd Tacoma.
+1 on shopping fullsize trucks. Also +1 on Fords with the 300ci inline 6 and a manual (I get about 17 mpg with mine). I would also strongly consider a 4.3L equipped chevy.
The least rusty full size truck I could find. Even V6 and an automatic wouldn't bother me if I found a completely rust free truck for under $2k. Now if there was some rust, I'd probably want the V8 and manual, but you get it. CONDITION! Being a bit of a Ford guy I'd look for a 300 too.
What would my truck be? I'd probably hit the front office door right now on the way to the bank if I found a short wheel base Ford truck with step side, V8 or 300 I6, 4x4, and wood floor bed that's rust free for $2000.
pres589 wrote: Condition, condition, condition.
If you're bottom feeding the brand dosent matter, but the condition does. Find and old guys daily stripped out model not a thrashed work truck.
I tried looking for a truck in this price range several years ago, and all I could find were rusted-out hulks with one wheel in the junkyard already. Maybe it'll be better for you since you're not in the rust belt.
What are you looking to do with this truck? I might recommend a cargo van or a Caravan (you could take all the seats out in the back).
I too was looking at sub $1500-2000 beater trucks last year around this time. The problem with looking for one in the fall is that everyone else is too, if you live in an area with any kind of a winter, which drives the prices up for anything 4wd (not sure if that's important to you.) You may consider waiting until next spring/summer if the need isn't critical right now.
As someone else mentioned, keep your eyes peeled for a little old man truck (check newspaper classifieds and watch 'for sale' signs by the side of the road, because little old men often don't use the internet.) Rangers seem quite popular amongst this crowd. A buddy of mine scored a VERY nice '96 reg cab 2wd with 100k on the clock, the 2.3, and a 5 speed for $1400 a couple months ago.
Also, if you don't need the bed, I'll throw the XJ Cherokee out there, which is what I ultimately ended up with. Bought for $725 with rusty floors and blown out brake lines, I'm about $1100 into it now and its on the road. Parts are everywhere for stupid cheap and they're about as easy to work on as a relatively modern vehicle can be. Ginormous aftermarket and enthusiast community as well, in case you want to fall down that rabbit hole (like I am starting to...
)
ddavidv wrote: Full size anything. Mini trucks are cramped, underpowered and useless for towing. I've owned enough of them, moved to full size trucks and have zero regrets. The gas mileage isn't that much worse if you choose a decent drivetrain combo. My personal fav is a Ford with a 300 straight six and a manual trans. They are everywhere. 80-86
Another vote for an old F150 with the 300 six and manual trans. I snagged a '94 F150, short bed regular cab with a 300/5-speed a few years ago for $800 and it was great.
Just don't expect both fuel tanks to work. 
The_Jed wrote: Just don't expect both fuel tanks to work.
Haha. Good tip.
I bought a '95 F150 extended cab. 5.8ltr with 213k miles. towing package and captains seats for $1000 last year for a fellow GRM member.
Deals are out there.
800 bucks got me an 81 chevy with minimal rust. Rust free doesnt exist up here. Already swapped to a 305/700r4 that runs and drives great.
Picked up a 91 chevy ECSB for $1100 four years ago. Been my DD ever since. Most I've spent on it at one time other than for tires was $200 for some front end work so I could get an alignment, parts are dirt cheap. I picked up some new upper control arms from Rock Auto for it because it was cheaper to do that than buy the bushings and have them pressed into the old ones and install new ball joints. Have no idea how many miles I have on it since the odo quit at 279K and I haven't bothered to fix it.
Chevy/GMC, 1500 or S10, with a TBI 4.3, much more refined than the Fords.
AntiArrhythmic wrote: Before I turbo my honda I want to have a back up vehicle, since it will likely become less reliable. I already have a beater car, so a beater truck appeals to me. Keep in mind I'm 6'3", so extended cab is probably a must. I've looked at ranger's, mighty max's etc. Also not opposed to an old japanese box like the Trooper. I'm open to all suggestions. Help me decide!
Let me correct something.. Extended cab does not give you more headroom.. In most cases it does not give you more leg room. (The seat runners on most are the same as a regular cab).. Full size pickups do not get notably worse fuel mileage than compact trucks. Some like the Ranger etc. get worse.. The engines etc.. in most compact pickup trucks tend not to be as durable as those in the best full sized pickups.. Fords 300 cu.inline six and GM's V8 easily push 300,000 miles plus and replacing them is really cheap.. (Sorry Dodge)
In reply to frenchyd:
Meh, I'd pit a Ford 2.3 or GM 2200 against a Vortec 350 any day of the week. Other than that you're very right, unless you need the smaller size of economy of the 2WD 4 cyl 5 speed models, or are so broke you can't afford a full size, might as well just go full size. There's a reason compact trucks aren't really a thing anymore, just almost full size (e.g. Colorado) and extra full size.
Most Rangers while they were built had the V6 not the little 4 cylinder..
As for the 350 Mine is at 345,000 miles and has had only one break down.. (the coil wire) One fuel pump, one set of intake gaskets and one alternator are the only other repairs. Normal maintenance was done on schedule.. This little short box 4X4 get's 19MPG on the road 17 in the city.. V8 A/C power everything etc.. It built my house. 50,000 bd.ft. of hardwood. over 200 tons of Stone, S.I.P. panels, shakes,----- heck, everything needed to build a 5800 sq.ft. Timber frame.
In addition it's hauled my enclosed tandem racecar trailer across the country and over the Rockies, Appalachians, etc. more times than I can count.. The race car made up less than 1/2 of the load in the trailer.. Tools and spares were the real heavy portion of the load. Not to mention that for the past 18 years it's put my 28 foot,6100 pound boat into and out of the lake up a slippery steep boat ramp.. Nope, still the untouched original automatic..
300/6 manual with dual tanks, fond memories.
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