Best glue for plastic to metal?

I'm needing to reglue the plastic nipple back on to the waterpump housing on my mazda 6. 

The factory pump always leaked from the plastic elbow since the car was new. 

Finally replaced it and the elbow eventually cracked. But the new aftermarket one and its also now leaking from the fitting. This one doesn't even appear to have been glued at all.  

I'm thinking clean everything up real good.  Wipe down with some acetone after scuffing with a scotch pad. Then glue in place. 

I'm leaning towards loctite hy4070 unless someone knows of something better.

Open to suggestions 

I have used this stuff a couple of times for that kind of thing and have been surprised how well it worked.

Get everything clean, assemble the part. put some thin super glue around the crack, and then sprinkle on the sand.  Want to reinforce the break?  Add more coats of super glue and sand. Seems to reach full strength overnight.

Used it today to reattach the brass hinge nuts to the case of my laptop... which I had dropped...  Back in one piece again.

I'd check the heat range on any CA glue before using. If it's not sufficient, an epoxy might be called for.

Drill, tap and metal hose barb with NPT threads. The differential expansion rates from heat will cause rapid glue failure regardless of type.

Seems like this is a common problem, and a dubious design.  If the plastic piece just isn't glued adequately, then I think a good clean/scuff and some epoxy will probably work. 

https://community.cartalk.com/t/any-glue-or-sealant-that-is-resistant-to-coolant-and-high-temps/120612

In reply to TurnerX19 :

Was really trying to avoid pulling the housing off again. It's kind of a pain but if I do I'll have my buddy tig on an elbow and be done with it. 

What about JB Weld? 

When I was swapping a GM V6 into one of my MGs, the water pump elbow came out of the pump at an inconvenient point. My machinist said that machining the alloy pot metal sort of material used in the water pumps often didn't work out well in the long run, so he blocked the wrong outlet (which ended a fraction of an inch from the frame), bored a new hole in the desired position and glued a piece of alloy tubing into it.  That was 10 years ago and no leaks.

Used a glue similar to this:

J-B Weld 8276 KwikWeld Quick Setting Steel Reinforced Epoxy.

I have also used the regular J-B Weld epoxy to fill holes bored by some git of a previous owner in an intake manifold. Both glues are machinable.