Best way to remove these?

Anyone know. It's the post that holds the trim on GM cars. Cutoff wheel and cut them? Twist them off with Vice Grips? I've got 64 of them to remove them off the Roadmaster. Hopefully without leaving a mess fix.

In my experience, twisting something like this off, leaves you with a larger hole. I imagine others that know better will soon pipe in, but I'd use a cutting wheel.

Not to sound like a wise guy but it would probably be easier to get the molding and put it back on.

Considering this alternative: Cut off wheel, grind flat, add bondo, sand, add more bondo, sand, prime, paint, X 64.

BFH and pound it in? Just kidding. I'd guess cut off wheel is the best bet.

Some cars just look better without the clutter of trim.

A small diameter cutting wheel on something like a Dremel would lessen chances of attacking the bodywork. Hopefully, you won't have an endless sources of rattles once the inside bits reach the bottom of the interior panels

Depends on what the backside of the panel looks like. If it is a welded stud, cut off and fill/sand smooth.

Going from this:

To something like this:

The trim has to go. I kind of figured a cutoff wheel was going to be the way to go. That's going to be a lot of grinding, bondo and sanding.

3 inch cutoff wheel, followed by about 80 grit sanding disc to take it to sheetmetal level, followed by sand, prep and paint. They are spotwelded on, so any twisting will cause much anguish.

Na$$ty. I think instead of ghost flames, you should do ghost wood trim.

I think you should have replaced the wood graphic with a carbon fiber graphic and painted the trim all a carbon black.

Cutting disc, scuff, prime, spot putty, sand, prime, paint.

I thought about painting it to match the Abomination.

To be so simple, that Abomination paint job sho' do get around. Hey, why is the car sitting so low on the left side?

Those pins are welded on, you are correct you'll have to remove them with a cutoff wheel. You then use a wire wheel to remove the paint from the spot where it was, then use a blunt punch and a small hammer to tap it down maybe 1/8". Then it's good ol' Bondo and primer, etc.

Cut stud flush w/ wafer disc, grind w/ 80 disc to remove paint, dimple spot w/ larger dia. rod (don't punch stud out else you gotta weld hole shut). Bondo, sand, finish.

In reply to Curmudgeon:

^ he just beat me to it !

Well, it seems like there is a conses. Oh well, at least there isn't a bunch of rust on this one to cut out and replace.

It's a Roadmonster,Hammerflush, add fake leopardskin from fabric department. DONE. Save money for Pink Mohair shagginnwaggin.

I would woodgrain the rest of it to match actually.

I actually the original version, but it's your car & that's not the question you asked. So what about a completely oddball answer...

Rather than worry about making them nice & smooth, why don't you get 64 of those little spikes/studs like all the 80's metalheads wore, and replace each of those buttons with something a little more... intimidating?

In reply to petegossett:

Hmm...

I kind of like the wood grain too, but it's too far gone to save. Long scratch down one side, multiple dings and nicks. So the wood has to go. One front fender is the wrong color from a previous wreck, so it needs paint. I can paint it cheaper than I can replace the vinyl.

Toyman01 wrote: I can paint it cheaper than I can replace the vinyl.

Barn board is cheap.

Build on the land yacht theme and replace the wood graphic with a nice teak and holly graphic which is popular in nautical applications like this floor.

I prefer the Orca paint scheme on these. Extra points for a dorsal fin/antennae array.