Big problem: Bolt Removal

Ok, so i've run into a very big problem with the Escort.

I have long bolts that run through my hubs on the rear suspension. (28-113 in the illustration.)

http://www.jimellismazdaparts.com/images/parts/mazda/fullsize/CB15201.jpg

They're stuck.

I've soaked them in every sort of penetrating oil. I've heated them with a propane torch and beat them with a dead blow hammer. I've heated them with a MAP torch and beat them with a dead blow hammer.

I sent them to a machine shop to have them pressed out. A 20 ton press couldn't get them out.

I need them out.

Or i need a source for NEW assemblies. I don't think trying to get replacements from a junkyard is going to be any different.

Ideas? I'm at wit's end, and this is the ONLY thing keeping me from turning the car into a roller again with one day's work, then it's just a matter of installing the drivetrain.

Maybe soak em in CLR. That stuff has fixed a few rust problems for me.

I assume you heated and put an impact on them? Or are they broke off in the spindle?

familytruckster wrote: Maybe soak em in CLR. That stuff has fixed a few rust problems for me. I assume you heated and put an impact on them? Or are they broke off in the spindle?

They aren't broken. They're just massive ~8" bolts that go through the whole damn thing. Only one per spindle. Already cut the control arms off as best i can.

Yeah, heated and impact. Heated and dead blow hammer. Heated and HUGE breaker bar.

I take it they are frozen to the uprights and not an issue getting the nut off... First shot is commercial product - PB blaster or better - Kroil, followed by more heat and impact, next would be the acetone/auto transmission fluid combo, plus more heat and impact. After that I would probably just get pissed off, cut them off and drill out the remains.

oldtin wrote: I take it they are frozen to the uprights and not an issue getting the nut off... First shot is commercial product - PB blaster or better - Kroil, followed by more heat and impact, next would be the acetone/auto transmission fluid combo, plus more heat and impact. After that I would probably just get pissed off, cut them off and drill out the remains.

Uprights? .... Not following you there?

This is the thru-bolt that holds the control arms to the hub. (MacStrut)

Any recommendations on a long drill bit that's capable of drilling through an extremely high grade bolt?

You need more heat. Map gas probably isn't going to get it done. Try and oxy/acetylene torch with a rose bud tip.

If the uprights are cast iron, I have had success with tossing the parts in a fire. Usually one good heat/cool cycle is enough to break the rust loose. We did an antique engine with a stuck piston that way.

I was worried about not enough heat.... i don't think i know anyone with an oxy torch.

This is a nightmare.

So build a scrap wood bonfire and chuck 'em in?

Duke wrote: So build a scrap wood bonfire and chuck 'em in?

Not really an option, otherwise i'd give it a shot. (And i would imagine that would necessitate the need to buy new hub/bearing assemblies, yes?) I rent this garage, and live in an apartment.

Duke wrote: So build a scrap wood bonfire and chuck 'em in?

This, seriously.

92CelicaHalfTrac wrote:

Duke wrote: So build a scrap wood bonfire and chuck 'em in?

Not really an option, otherwise i'd give it a shot. (And i would imagine that would necessitate the need to buy new hub/bearing assemblies, yes?) I rent this garage, and live in an apartment.

Any chance of finding an old 55 gallon drum around for a hobo heater? Not sure about the bearing, but I imagine if it is a sealed bearing yes the fire would tear up the seals, but if it is an all-metal ball bearing, maybe not.

The hub and bearing assemblies should come off. Then go get you a chiminea for the patio.

Alright guys, thanks. I'll see what i can do with these options.

In case i have to try the hand drill option, any recommendations on a badass drill bit that would pimp slap this thing?

socket welded into some high grade steel tubing? not welded to, but a hole cut into the tube and the socket welded all the way around on both sides. add several feet of bar.

also, electrolysis (sp)?

also, sledge?

THis is a common issue on the rear of Sentras. Nissan uses a nice long bolt that likes to twist instead of back out of its threads.

If nothing is working, I'd shear the head off and use a ginormous punch to get it out. You may have to put it on a shop press to push it out though.

What I found happened with the Sentra ones is the shaft would actually get corrosion between it and the hub. It was rarely the threads that was the issue.

Oh and finally, I have found that heating a part up (even with a little propane torch) and spraying on penetrating oil has a double effect... it quickly contracts the metal, and it also seems to wick the oil in better. For what it's worth anyway.

4cylndrfury wrote: socket welded into some high grade steel tubing? not welded to, but a hole cut into the tube and the socket welded all the way around on both sides. add several feet of bar. also, electrolysis (sp)? also, sledge?

Sledge has been tried... it's a pretty hefty dead blow i was using, taking full two handed manly swings at it.

Not sure what your first suggestion is trying to do... Don't have a welder anyways. Bolt is NOT threaded into spindle. It just passes through.

Electrolysis could be interesting, but maybe not that easy to set up?

Taiden wrote: THis is a common issue on the rear of Sentras. Use a nice long bolt that likes to twist instead of back out of its threads. If nothing is working, I'd shear the head off and use a ginormous punch to get it out. You may have to put it on a shop press to push it out though. What I found happened with the Sentra ones is the shaft would actually get corrosion between it and the hub. It was rarely the threads that was the issue. Oh and finally, I have found that heating a part up (even with a little propane torch) and spraying on penetrating oil has a double effect... it quickly contracts the metal, and it also seems to wick the oil in better. For what it's worth anyway.

Lol i know it's not the threads that are the issue, because there aren't any threads involved.

I think the problem is that the vast majority of the bolt is IN the spindle, a good ~5" of it.

I'll try the heat and spray method, but i'm not sure that it'll be able to get all the way through there.

STUPID design.

Oh and finally, if your bolt is twisting a lot, an impact will not really have that wonderful impact torque load that makes them work so well. The springy twisting action will absorb all of that. So if you can figure out how to make it not twist, you may solve your problem.

Taiden wrote: Oh and finally, if your bolt is twisting a lot, an impact will not really have that wonderful impact torque load that makes them work so well. The springy twisting action will absorb all of that. So if you can figure out how to make it not twist, you may solve your problem.

It's not twisting at all.

More heat, and lose the dead blow. Steel 5lb or bigger. If you've just been beating the threaded end, maybe wail on the head for a bit as well, it may loosen up a touch.

I hate rust. There's a similar long thru-bolt that holds the Impreza/Legacy/Forester control arms and hubs together out back, drives me nuts.

Good luck, sir. One way or another, it has to come out, even if it's in pieces.

ValuePack wrote: More heat, and lose the dead blow. Steel 5lb or bigger. If you've just been beating the threaded end, maybe wail on the head for a bit as well, it may loosen up a touch. I hate rust. There's a similar long thru-bolt that holds the Impreza/Legacy/Forester control arms and hubs together out back, drives me nuts. Good luck, sir. One way or another, it has to come out, even if it's in pieces.

So... try a MAN'S sledge?

I'll try switching sides. Might have a problem, though. I was so convinced that the 20ton press would work, that i no longer have a way to re-mount the hub to the car since i cut through the remaining arm.

So i guess i'll have to figure out a way to keep this sucker still while i whale on it.

A good high quality drill should drill it. Irwin makes some in 6" and 12" lengths.

Good luck, it sounds like you are going to need it in spades.

I know the LKQ down here has a couple of Escorts. What year is yours. I'd be willing to stop by and see if the ones here are any better. We don't have the salty slush to deal with here.

Toyman01 wrote: A good high quality drill should drill it. Irwin makes some in 6" and 12" lengths. Good luck, it sounds like you are going to need it in spades. I know the LKQ down here has a couple of Escorts. What year is yours. I'd be willing to stop by and see if the ones here are any better. We don't have the salty slush to deal with here.

It's a 93 EGT.

Any 91-96 EGT should work. I'm not sure about the LX models, but i think also some 91-94 Proteges work. Also Escort LX-E and Tracer LT-S.

I already have new bolts, so that's not a problem at all.

I won't really have a chance to go at this again until probably Friday, but if you're bored and want to check it out, i'll put together a complete list of compatible models as well as necessary tools. I would much appreciate it!

I was also thinking electrolysis. All you need is a battery charger, a bucket and some stuff I don't remember.... There was a thread about it.

Shoot the list to me. LKQ is only a mile or two from the office. I should be able to get by there Friday or Saturday.