Tech Tips: 2009-’15 Chevrolet Camaro
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Gary Bohanick of Detroit Speed
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Common Failure Points: Stock rear toe links are the first weak link of the rear suspension. Spend the money and purchase aftermarket toe links to fix this problem.
Next problem area: the rear cradle bushings, which allow excessive body movement. Same solution here: Buy …
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My parents drove it up from the Bahamas.
It's just you and me Punk rock girl...
I thought you were going to be talking about somthing this guy built.
So is this based on the previous generation or current generation?
Some more context would be nice.
In reply to z31maniac
:
They mention Gen 5 in the story, so that would be the previous generation?
This is for the 2009-’15 Camaro. I'll add a line at the top. The info is in the teaser on the sidebar.
dean1484 wrote:
I thought you were going to be talking about somthing this guy built.
thankfully, he has nothing to do with this. this is about making a good car great, he specializes in making good cars cheesy.
HapDL wrote:
In reply to z31maniac
:
They mention Gen 5 in the story, so that would be the previous generation?
Gotcha, I didn't make it to the last paragraph since it wasn't clear what it was based on.
In the news world they call that "burying the lead." hehe
Re "approximately 28 counts of drag, improving rear lift performance by 70 counts"
Sometimes you can't learn stuff without sounding like a noob, so... what is a "count," please? I'm thinking it would be something like a unit of pressure per unit of area? And are drag and lift measured in the same units?
This thread is a disaster :-)>
rdcyclist said:
Stealthtercel said:
Sometimes you can't learn stuff without sounding like a noob, so... what is a "count," please?
"69 counts of drag... ahh... ahh... ahh... 70 counts of drag!"
novaderrik said:
dean1484 wrote: I thought you were going to be talking about somthing this guy built.
thankfully, he has nothing to do with this. this is about making a good car great, he specializes in making good cars cheesy.
I know right? How awful would it be to have to drive around in one of these ugly ducklings?
Good article in it's day. Things have changed since 2016 when the parts referenced in the article were available. I have a 2010 Camaro SS and the Z/28 front splitter and rear spoiler are no longer available from GM. The head and cam combo may still be available but with a Chevy caveat that they "won't work without tuning" - which is inconveniently not available from Chevy. Nor does Chevy even recommend a trustworthy aftermarket tuner. Good luck - We're all counting on you - Which tuner exactly can safely re-write the tune to get the performance increase Chevy envisions with that head/cam setup? ACS Composites do offer F/R splitter and spoilers for the 5th Gen which is good 'cause GM sure doesn't. GM may still have the 6-piston ZL1 Brembo package available. Except for the nearly no-longer-available ZL1 OEM wheels (Standard 10-Spoke and optional 5-spoke), it is damn hard to find a strong (Forged) wheel in ZL1 sizes and offsets that don't cost a much as an LS3 GM crate engine. Which is some kind of ridiculous. Agree about the limited slip and a Detroit True-Trac is on my wish list. For a street driven car, I find the stock SS springs to be near perfect - I've added a set of Hotchkis F/R Competition sway bars that adequately address roll and understeer issues - While allowing the car to be street driven. Agree that a primarily focussed track car would benefit from stiffer springs and bushings - but a primary street car is better off with OEM springs and bushings.
The number one question I have is will it do "donuts on you lawn"
In reply to AndyHess :
Jeremy at FasterProm would be my first stop if you wanted to keep the ECU, or Kevin at KSRFabrication if you went with the Holley set-up. The closer you live to a drag strip, the better chance of finding a GOOD tuner.
In reply to racerfink :
Appreciate the referral. I'm not drag racing (some xcross) and live well away from most organized racing of any kind. And since my ride is a street car first, I want the OEM ECU since it interfaces with a ton of other stuff a Holley or other aftermarket ECU won't touch. I may touch base with Jeremy - my experience to date is that non-GM trained tuners want to jump into stuff I don't want - like changing the idle, and the O2 settings. One prominent tuner recommends altering the factory tune to reflect the ambient weather where the car owner lives - admitting that the car won't run as well if the owner drives to a colder state (like on a trip) but that the local performance improvement justifies the downside - Which for a street car, I completely disagree with. Still wrestling with self-tuning - the whole reason a large part of hot rodding is DIY is to get things the way you want them, and so far, tuning is largely focussed on max performance and other goals like keeping O2 feedback and meeting emissions don't register. Since I want performance and keep my car from emitting more pollutants than when new, my tuning focus is "out of touch" with most performance tuners. I run Kooks headers and Kooks stainless cats so there are companies who get it. Not to mention the performance available from a new Camaro, 'Vette, Challenger or Mustang that meet emissions requirements. Again, thanks for the referral - mulling whether to spend the winter teaching myself tuning.