Has anyone built or used bolted ice racing tires? I've heard that gr.8 is best to prevent snapped bolts. I've even see SS bolts used, but that seems excessively expensive. Another thing to consider is having to use the snowmobile stud sharpener to put a point on each one. Here, softer is easier. Not sure how quickly the ice would wear the points - I am using wear is negligible even on a soft bolt. These would never, ever see pavement.
I built a set a few years back, using cheap bolts. I ran them one event unsharpened and then put points on them for the next event. The difference was incredible. After a few events, with the car having multiple drivers, the points were still relatively sharp. I'm not sure there's really a need to go to grade 8. I'd think stainless would be a step down, as the types used for bolts tends to be softer than plain steel.
We drilled our holes a 32nd smaller than the bolt size and then impacted them through, using 3m window weld as a sealant. After 4 events the tires were still COMPLETELY air tight, which we all found incredible.
In reply to FooBag :
Awesome feedback! I was planning on using windshield adhesive as a sealant. I know the assembly will be arduous. I've sourced a set of 16" WRX take-offs and hopefully with get some used tires this weekend. Can't wait to see how the BRZ behaves with actual grip on the ice!
Cheap bolts would still tear out of the tire before they broke.
Do you need the washers and nuts? I always thought you just screwed them straight in (err...out, I guess) and then applied sealant.
LanEvo said:Do you need the washers and nuts? I always thought you just screwed them straight in (err...out, I guess) and then applied sealant.
The Wisconsin groups that host ice racing require that you use washers and lock nuts.
AMEC has pretty much gone away from home built tires due to the availability of manufactured tires.
The home built tires went from screws/bolts to the Kold Kutter ice stud/bolt.
Most have said that the expense is worth the work building a tire.
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