Bonding steel to fiberglass

Looking into how to bond upper hood and lower skeleton  togeather, with steel mounts to bolt to the front hinge and rear locking mechanism. Here are some drawings

Check Corvette sites?  Bodyshop panel adhesive?

Pliogrip.

Not cheap but does the job.

Really would not like to see the hood, leave the car at speed. There is enough air pressure  to  lift the Oem  steel hood 2 to 3 inches at 70 mph.( hood tilts forward to open )

Plate it on both sides, glue inner to hold long enough to Riv- nut or Pop Rivit it togeather, Corvette is a high dollar version of this. I Have seen plenty with no inner and Hood 'Popped' to the Hinge

Reason for the question. At 70 mph, there is enough  air pressure  to lift the steel hood 2 or 3 inches in the rear, perhaps  a hood vent to relive the hood of pressure.but being stylish, some with something like this. As Also  as a benefit  get rid of heat. My stainless steel headers  are close to the glass hood. Using mirror heat tape, taped to underside of the hood, to reflect  the heat.

If there's enough force to lift the rear of hood, you need to send that air elsewhere.

You need extractor vents in the fenders or some other method to lower the air pressure under the hood without sending it over the top.

Think of how much downforce could you generate  with a small pressure differential spread over an area that large.

Cannot  send to fenders, over the wheels, the engine bay is sealed from there, only escape  for air, is around the engine,under the firewall,around the tranny, that why, hood vent idea

High pressure  and heated  air  will exit about 12 inches in front of the lower windscreen . 

Photo 

.....  in most cars, there is a high pressure zone around the base of the windshield, how would  adding more air ( heated a wee bit ) effect  the car? It is a convertible. So aerodynamics,are not the best

I've had good luck with a quality epoxy.  In fact, I just did some this weekend.  I bonded a small piece of steel to fiberglass for a combination DIN receiver support and ground bus bar.  I know from history, it will rip the fiberglass apart before that steel comes loose.

I like a certain brand (feel free to ask, I just want to avoid canoe-ing) and I mixed it with enough microfiber powder to prevent it from dripping all away.  It was the consistency of cake batter.  If you own a shop vac and an A/C vacuum pump, all you need is the bag to do a vacuum lamination.  I've been really itching to do this with some Divinycell or Diab foam but haven't pulled the trigger on a bag yet.

Alfaromeoguy said:

.....  in most cars, there is a high pressure zone around the base of the windshield, how would  adding more air ( heated a wee bit ) effect  the car? It is a convertible. So aerodynamics,are not the best

 

The pressure under the hood overcomes the pressure at the base and the air will still flow out.

Generally having the vents a bit further forward (think GT500) is better, as the pressure there is lower, so you get more air out from under the hood. 

Better photo, freind s car, nowhere for the air to escape 

Question, high strength double side tape? They tape Windows to skyscraper with this stuff.